Sofirn C8F host. 21700 C8F Available

Thank you gchart for that info…. :slight_smile:
Yep… looking for serious output. I think I found it too by following your suggestion to check out Richards FET +1.

My first complete C8F has a locked tail cap retaining ring too. Only light that has beat me on disassembly. I kinda gave up but I will give it a GO with Heat a few more times.
Haven’t played with the Hosts yet though…

Edit…

OOPS…
Yeah I shoulda tried that. THANKS!

Well, success…
Got a quality tailcap spring bypass using 20 AWG on my C8F.

Some advice please. I am building using the Sofirn host and driver. I did the same thing contactcr did, leave the wires long and try to stuff them down in the open space below the driver. I can get the thing to turn on but only if I don’t have the tube screwed all the way in. That is, if I have the tail cap on tight and the tube body unscrewed it works. If I snug up the tube body it doesn’t turn on. I guess you will want to know what battery I am using but I am not at home right now so can’t tell you. It is flat top that was pulled from a computer battery. Everything works fine if I just leave the tube loose.

Is your battery tube on backwards?

Check and see if your spring bypass is still secure too. Could it be triggering the battery protection (you said laptop pull) when a loose bypass wire makes connection with less resistance (on either end really)

This light is made to accept the non-anodized threads into the head of the light. Anodized threads at the tail cap. Without having pictures of the actual arrangement of the wires and such, it’s just impossible to predict what the problem might be. The simplest and easiest to make mistake is to reassemble with the battery tube inverted, causing contact issues. Other than that, there shouldn’t be any issue if all the contacts are made properly.

Keeping the wires long from the MCPCB allows the light to be assembled, but they need to be cut off just long enough to solder onto the driver, this will prevent an excess of wires in the driver bay. Done this way, even 18ga wires will work…

I will have to check. I remember having the non anodized threads at the head. That is why I kept the tube unscrewed at the head, I figured the tail cap had to be on tight to make contact. The light does light, just not when the head threads are tightened up. I remember a previous thread somewhere about this happening and if I remember right the springs were pushing so hard on the battery that it deformed the battery causing loss of current. I’m not sure why this would happen as I haven’t done any modification of the tube or cap.

Can you explain a little more how this would happen and how it triggers protection? To me if the bypass is loose there would still be current flow through the spring.

The bypass would not affect operation, and you clearly stated that you were using a flat top cell pulled from a laptop battery pack, no protection circuit on these. They tend to not be the most capable cell out there, but should still work fine even if not making as much output as a top cell.

Thank you Dale. I am following in your footsteps with a UV light build in this nice host. Will post details if I can get the thing working right. I wanted to start slow with a cruddy battery since I am not quite sure how the emitters will handle full power.

UV emitters are typically much lower voltage/current, like 700mW or 1000mW, so if you aren’t taking precaution to keep power level to their requirements you’re gonna blow 3 UV emitters in a big hurry.

While we’re on the subject, what current do you think the Sofirn driver puts out with an average battery for the C8F, no DB Custom FET mods?

I reviewed one of these and I am in contact with Dale comparing notes a lot of times also.
with everything as the light comes out of the box , I would say 8.5 to 9.5 amps would be a good average to expect from the included cell or a quality high drain cell.

Thanks Robo. I am assuming that is on Turbo.

Yes on Turbo and at the tailend.

Stupid question, but does the host come with the side clicky e switch included?

Yes it’s already installed with wire leads

If I read correctly… it does.

Did a quick search but didn’t find anything.

Did anyone mod this light with 3x sst-40 using a fet driver or other high performance driver?
If so, how much lumens did you got?