THank you, because despite the price i like the light to be honest (WW tint), ......but now it seems i'm not able to understand something in the whole story. :confused
I received mines today in neutral white. Mine is definitely neutral white. If I had to guess, maybe around 4600 to 4700k. It’s just slightly warmer than my EC4SW’s (MT-G2) and much cooler than my Manker E14 II with 4000K Nichia 219C. I was actually looking forward to the warmer temp that I saw in this review and another review, but in the end I’m very happy with the temp and tint.
My new favourite reviewer! The lumen/hour comparison is very useful, give us to the technology used by each manufacturers. Would love to see medium and high runtimes and lumen/hour as well if you have the time (for future review).
The battery of my H2R died suddenly, no reading at all. I removed the wrap to discover it was a 30Q inside (I thought it was VTC6), and the reason it died was because the cell’s internal protection triggered after being shorted.
I must have missed it the first time round, but got here in the end, after ZoomieFan provided the link
I normally lean towards throw rather than flood, but I was still rather interested in the H2R until I saw that “neutral white” was actually warm white. Would have made a nice area work light. Oh, well.
I think it’s that first production used the warmer emitter and they’re all 5000K now. I want to say CalvinIS confirmed that, but I’m not 100% certain off the top of my head. My review sample from Illumn was 5000K, and I haven’t heard of anybody getting a warm one in the past 6 months.
The old tailcap used a PTC thermistor to reduce the severity of shorts. It wasn’t bad enough to make the battery explode, but it could easily ignite things. The new use uses a diode to prevent them, which was what they should have done from the beginning.
They replied to my question about the tail cap there (see post #31 above)
Someone else already asked your question recently on 2/28, (most recent question) so an answer should be appearing there soon. Uunless there is a visible difference they are probably going to need the serial number to check, someone asked about which tint they had and Olight’s response was: ” tell me the serial number I will check for you.”
Another way might be with a multi-meter, there could be a different reading between the old PTC thermistor and the new diode version, but I have no idea what the readings would be. Someone here with the old one might be able to check theirs with a meter and let us know, and some may have both caps to check as I believe Olight sent out the new caps if requested.
Dissolve salt in water until no more will dissolve. With the battery in the light, stick the tail in the water. See if it produces bubbles of hydrogen. For added fun ignite the bubbles.
Or short it with an ammeter. If you get any significant current, it’s the old tailcap. Usually you’ll get a few amps for a second or two, then a few hundred milliamps after the PTC throttles it.