The FW3A a TLF BLF special elegant triple powerful flashlight

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cabfrank
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I like option C also, as well as the dead simple muggle mode. I’m not going to complain however it works out though.

MascaratumB
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ToyKeeper wrote:
The ramp stops at the top and bottom. To turn around, let go of the button and then hold it again.

Nice! It will be manipulated according the user’s will! Thumbs Up

ToyKeeper wrote:
The top/bottom blinks were initially added as part of an auto-reversing UI, but I’m not sure they make any sense in a UI which stops on its own. It’s not generally hard to tell that it has stopped, especially at the bottom end. However, it can be difficult to gauge how far up the ramp the light is.

I suppose that Crescendo is the case you mentioned. I’ve been using it (and like it a lot!!! Thanks TK!!) in a modded light but the auto-reversing is a bit “awkward” specially comparing witrh the Emisar D4 UI. It takes longer to get used to.

This said, I guess that sometimes it is harder to see when the top is reached, not the bottom. And that was the reason why I posted C and D as my options. The highest luminosity seems harder to control or to “eye-measure” than the lowest.

I still think that the blinks make sense to avoid pressing the button like there was no tomorrow and to mark some points while ramping.

ToyKeeper wrote:
I configure mine with a blink at channel boundaries only. This lets me know if I should expect more than 8 hours of runtime, between 1 and 8 hours, or less than 1 hour.

This might be the only thing why I wold add the B mark, to know what to expect in terms of battery, as the highest regulation surely implies more drain than the 1st 7135 limit.

Still, so far I maintain my suggestion C and D.

————————-

Also, I have one question. Would the passage from full regulation to FET work as in the Emisar D4, meaning: after passinf that limit, and depending on the use LEDs that will be used, is it probable to see a “tint shift”? I have the D4 with XP-G2 S4 3D and I experience that “shift”. Don’t know how others react, and also don’t know it is supposed to expect that change on the new setting, after the regulation passage.

Please ignore my question if it is nonsense Innocent And thanks again for the work done so far.

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joechina
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I want all blinks.
A
B
C
D

What I find interesting from the runtime table:
You gain 2h runtime if you go from 65 down to 62

Quote:

62: 141.8 lm, 315 mA, 10 hours
63: 148.0 lm, 329 mA, 9 hours
64: 153.7 lm, 341 mA, 9 hours
65: 160.0 lm, 355 mA, 8 hours

Can we have the default level for power on set to level 62, please?

I dont think someone see a difference between 142 and 160 lumen and the 2h more seems to be a good trade-off.

joechina
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Optical programming seems the most promising. But a lot of work and time.
I want that in a later premium edition of the FW3A with 90 CRI Nichia LEDs Smile not now

A sunrise mode, please no. I think it’s to hard to set with the lamp. And the µC cant sleep.

Leave room, it’s already feature packed.

Persechini
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Optical programming seems amazing!

In my Tree

My collectionEmisar: D4 / D1 / D4 (broken) ― Convoy: C8 Clear / S2+ Clear / S2+ / S2+ UV / S6 ― Nitecore: Tube / Thumb / Concept 1 / HC30 / HC33 / TIP / TIP CRI / TINI ― Lumintop: Tool AAA / Tool AA / HLAAA / EDC05 ― Sofirn: SF10 / SF12 / SF12 / SF14 / SF14 / SF14 / SP10A / SP10A (gifted) ― Jaxman: E3 ― UTorch: UT01 ― Trustfire: Z2 ― Skyfire: SF-065 (trashed)

joechina
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@TK
one thing for the flow chart:
If you print it on a b/w laser printer you can’t distinguish the green and black lines very well.

Mabye if they are fatter?

A direct label on the lines maybe work
—x1—>
—h—>
—x1+h—>

mayby other lines
..-
—..—..—

ToyKeeper
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MascaratumB wrote:
Would the passage from full regulation to FET work as in the Emisar D4, meaning: after passinf that limit, and depending on the use LEDs that will be used, is it probable to see a “tint shift”? I have the D4 with XP-G2 S4 3D and I experience that “shift”.

Yes, but the effect isn’t as pronounced. This shows roughly what kind of tint shift to expect on three types of drivers.

ToyKeeper
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joechina wrote:
You gain 2h runtime if you go from 65 down to 62
Quote:
62: 141.8 lm, 315 mA, 10 hours 63: 148.0 lm, 329 mA, 9 hours 64: 153.7 lm, 341 mA, 9 hours 65: 160.0 lm, 355 mA, 8 hours

Can we have the default level for power on set to level 62, please?

I dont think someone see a difference between 142 and 160 lumen and the 2h more seems to be a good trade-off.

With more digits shown, it’s not such a big difference:
62: 9.52 hours

65: 8.45 hours

The script rounded to the nearest integer, since the values are all approximate anyway.

Just a Guy
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Please add my name to the "interested" list for one light (first request). 

ToyKeeper
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joechina wrote:
one thing for the flow chart: If you print it on a b/w laser printer you can’t distinguish the green and black lines very well.

Hmm, I’ll keep that in mind in case the diagram ships with the light. For now though, the .svg file is in the repository, and should work in Inkscape (free, runs on several OSes).

mts49
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Do we have a current photo of the external design as of now?

Target production date or release date?

Tixx
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ToyKeeper wrote:
Blink option running vote tally…

As a reminder, the options are: (where in the ramp to blink)

  • A. Floor
  • B. ~150 lm, level 65/150
  • C. ~1000 lm, level 130/150 (highest regulated level)
  • D. Ceiling

Totals:

  • A: -7
  • B: 3
  • C: 14
  • D: 3

19 votes:

I’ve been saving each vote as sort of a trinary variant of Approval voting… capital letter for +1 point, lower-case letter for +0, letter omitted entirely for -1. Originally I had planned on doing regular Approval voting, but Pulsar expressed a lukewarm opinion about option C so I added a state between “approve” and “disapprove”.

Not sure I’m familiar with negative voting. Can you just run raw numbers of for an option next to it? Also if people cannot stop at B and C, what will it accomplish? And force stopping would not be desirable I don’t think.

BT100
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Hi. I would like to be put on the list for 1. Thanks

Tixx
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ToyKeeper wrote:
The ramp stops at the top and bottom. To turn around, let go of the button and then hold it again.

The top/bottom blinks were initially added as part of an auto-reversing UI, but I’m not sure they make any sense in a UI which stops on its own. It’s not generally hard to tell that it has stopped, especially at the bottom end. However, it can be difficult to gauge how far up the ramp the light is. I configure mine with a blink at channel boundaries only. This lets me know if I should expect more than 8 hours of runtime, between 1 and 8 hours, or less than 1 hour.

None of the options should be an issue for anyone with firmware flashing tools, but I hope to make the default agreeable to as many people as possible. So far, it sounds like that means option C only, a blink at the highest regulated level before the FET kicks in. That also happens to be where the ceiling is set by default, which would mean it has a blink at the top of the ramp unless the user changes the ceiling level.

Since there’s also a configurable stepped ramp which can be used to consistently reach precise levels, I’m leaning toward relatively few blinks. Set your preferred floor, ceiling, and number of steps, and it’ll give you a mode with evenly-spaced levels (plus turbo, if not already in the ramp). For example:

  • 3 steps from 20 to 130: 11 / 240 / 1100 lm (plus turbo)
  • 4 steps from 10 to 130: 3.3 / 84 / 394 / 1100 lm (plus turbo)
  • 5 steps from 3 to 150: 0.8 / 47 / 246 / 741 / 3000 lm

It can be whatever you like.

Those abilities seem cool. Getting to look like a custom guppy driver custom output settings like

JasonWW
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Tixx wrote:
Also if people cannot stop at B and C, what will it accomplish?

I think people have forgotten that you can ramp both upward and downward. As you ramp down, you see the blink and you release the button. Done.

My Convoy L6 thread with XHP70.2, Texas Avenger FET driver, Narsil v1.2 ramping firmware (old), lighted side switch and cut down SMO reflector. Lots of amp draws on stock driver as well. 

My Supfire L5-S thread with XHP70.2, 26350 cells (4,100 lumen!), Texas Avenger FET driver, NarsilM v1.0 ramping firmware and lighted side switch. My mini L6! 

9 NarsilM user videos for BLF Q8, GT, GT Mini and ROT66

Texas_Ace BLF Calibrated Lumen tube

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Tixx
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JasonWW wrote:
Tixx wrote:
Also if people cannot stop at B and C, what will it accomplish?
I think people have forgotten that you can ramp both upward and downward. As you ramp down, you see the blink and you release the button. Done.

True, so you have to either pass it from low to high and stop and ramp back down or start ramping from above.

varbos
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Put me on the list for one please.

wellerus
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I’m interested for 1 piece, so please put me on the list.

gravelmonkey
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Using my D4, I don’t feel it has to be perfectly on the blink. I like the reference point because the human eye is terrible at judging brightness-

I frequently can’t tell if my Skilhunt H03 (last mode memory) is on medium (70lm) or high (160lm) until I cycle through the modes. The difference in modes is 10hours vs 5 hours runtime.

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mts49 wrote:
Do we have a current photo of the external design as of now?

Target production date or release date?

Nope, not yet.

DB Custom
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As far as missing the channel blink, it could be programmed to stop there instead of just blink, then a new press would continue on in the ramp. But then, that would interrupt the ramp and all sorts of other issue. I don’t mind passing it going up then getting close coming back down, it means the lights output is just shy of maxed out on the 7135 chip so regulation is good. Stopping just over the blink of course has the FET engaged and you’ve entered into not-so-efficient territory. AS IF this were critical. In critical situations a spare cell should be readily available anyway, right?

So, I like the blink top and bottom, and the blink at the channel change. Where in the soup does that put my preference? Wink

Dale

ToyKeeper
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Out of curiosity, I tried making the smooth ramp blink every time it passed a stepped ramp level. This would make the number and placement of blinks configurable… but in practice it was mostly just annoying. Then again, the default config had 7 steps.

pepinfaxera
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Sorry for my bad English
(google translator)

pepinfaxera
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Interest list … The Miller … pepinfaxera
—-
588 … darrylo
589 … darrylo 2nd
932 … darrylo 3nd
933 … darrylo 4nd
—-
246 … robbobus
941 … robbobus …
942 … robbobus …
—-
. 17 … Ozythemandias
411 … Ozythemandias
—-

289 … BeardedRaleigh
578 … BeardedRaleigh
943 … BeardedRaleigh …
944 … BeardedRaleigh …
—-
362 … Gj
413 … Gj
414 … Gj
415 … Gj
772 … Gj
—-
391 … shilent
773 … shilent
—-
…… … Agro … Edit: Not yet registered
—-
332 … thebaum
999 … thebaum … 2º nd?
—-
…… … Meyer … I do not see him registered
…… … TLF nº 221
—-
…… … khas … I do not see him registered
Post #1309
—-

Sorry for my bad English
(google translator)

pepinfaxera
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Interest list
—-
See Poost # 182

khas wrote:
Put me down for one please.

Any plans for a 18500 tube Innocent


khas: The Miller has not included him in the list
See Post #1309

Sorry for my bad English
(google translator)

d_t_a
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ToyKeeper wrote:

Last time I asked, there wasn’t much consensus on how muggle mode should work… so I went with the simplest option. That can change, if people want it to. Some options:
  • Dead simple style: On/off only, ~150 lm. <— current option
  • Traditional style: Low/med/high/off sequence, 10/80/300 lm.
  • Training wheels style: Simplified smooth ramp, 5 lm to 300 lm.

About another mood mode, I don’t have anything particular in mind. But if someone has a good idea, maybe it can happen.

I’m not sure if there’s enough space left for optical programming or not. It’s definitely the most work out of the things I mentioned, and I’d need to physically modify this FW3A prototype in order to do the development. Perhaps after the second prototype is made, I can turn the first one into a dedicated development host. For now though, I need it intact for thermal testing.

I don’t like “traditional” style as muggle mode. So either “training wheels” or “dead simple”. I suppose “training wheels” should be simple enough to learn about after a few minutes usage, so I’d more likely go for “training wheels” muggle mode.

Minocc
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I would like to see blinks at A, C, and D. I like those blinks on my D4, and how I describe the brightness to people depends on the middle blink.

off
Sensible Bright
blink
Stupid Bright
blinding

Tender
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ToyKeeper wrote:
Tender wrote:
How do the steps work? Does it pause at each step?

It works the same as the smooth ramp, except it only uses the configured steps, and each step is held for about 0.4 seconds. It’s similar to an Olight Baton interface, plus the ability to go down instead of only up. If the button is held, it will keep ramping until the user lets go or until it hits the end of the ramp.

BTW, I’m not clear on what your vote is now. It was AD, but now it sounds like maybe C or None?


I would say none. Keep it as smooth as possible. By default it stays in regulation, which would be where, I assume, most people will use it at. There’s always double click to turbo for when needed

"Keep On Luxing" © and "May The Lumin Be With You" © (by my very self)

steel_1024
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Vote B, C

Muggle 3 level is good.
L-M-H no memory.

Sorry for my poor english.

gravelmonkey
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I like the 5-300lm ramp muggle mode. If they don’t hold the switch, then they’ll never know it’s ramping capability and it will behave as a single mode.

Is muggle mode retained through cell changes?

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