The FW3A a TLF BLF special elegant triple powerful flashlight

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ridasrich
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1 please.

Looks fantastic and would give my HG2’s a proper workout.

My first post too – hi to everyone in BLF.

Agro
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pepinfaxera wrote:
…… … Agro … I do not see him registered

I find the light very interesting, but I’m not yet committed to buy it. So far I’m not in.
pepinfaxera
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Agro wrote:
pepinfaxera wrote:
…… … Agro … I do not see him registered
I find the light very interesting, but I’m not yet committed to buy it. So far I’m not in.

Thank you.
If you decide, post it.
.
.

Sorry for my bad English
(google translator)

Meyer
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pepinfaxera wrote:

…… … Meyer … I do not see him registered

I’m member of TLF, too, and registered there as #221. Arrow Right
MascaratumB
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ToyKeeper wrote:
MascaratumB wrote:
Would the passage from full regulation to FET work as in the Emisar D4, meaning: after passinf that limit, and depending on the use LEDs that will be used, is it probable to see a “tint shift”? I have the D4 with XP-G2 S4 3D and I experience that “shift”.

Yes, but the effect isn’t as pronounced. This shows roughly what kind of tint shift to expect on three types of drivers.

Thanks TK!! Thumbs Up

REVIEWS : Amutorch S3 /  AM S3 vs Neal 219c  /  Amutorch AM30 / Nitefox UT20 / Sofirn SF14 & SP10A / Sofirn SP32A / Sofirn SP10B / Odepro KL52 / Acebeam H20 / SS AAA / Wuben TO10R / BlitzWolf BW-ET1 / Odepro B018 / DQG Slim Ti / XTAR PB2 Charger / Nitefox ES10K / Nitefox K3 / Amutorch AX1 / Amutorch VG10 / Olight M2R Warrior  / OTR M1

Mods and tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7     Convoy S2+ TIR Lenses: XML2 / XPL-HI     Others: Convoy S2+ Mini (Biscotti 3 & 1*7135)     Sofirn K6 Discussion: 1 / 2 / 3    Triple TIR & XP-G2                   MY GIVEAWAY (FW3A) = ACTIVE

DB Custom said: "Hide your billfold, cut up your credit cards... you're a perfect candidate for full blown flashaholism and will soon need dedicated flashlight cabinets. [...] Have fun! Modding is next... :P" 

 

richnpc
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I’m in the fewer blinks camp, I’m voting B and C.

pepinfaxera
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Meyer wrote:
pepinfaxera wrote:

…… … Meyer … I do not see him registered

I’m member of TLF, too, and registered there as #221. Arrow Right

Thank you.
and apologies.
.
.
Sorry for my bad English
(gogole translator)

Sorry for my bad English
(google translator)

OKCOREY
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Add OKCorey to the list

Strangel0ve
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Interested. Thanks!

Speadge
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Speadge wants two. Thanks!

Tender
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I agree on the training wheels muggle mode. Should be easy to get acquainted with, and for those who have difficulty with it would act as a very simple on and off mode

"Keep On Luxing" © and "May The Lumin Be With You" © (by my very self)

sanches
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Please add me to the list for one.
I vote B, C and D.
Muggle Level – 3

JasonWW
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ToyKeeper wrote:
This shows roughly what kind of tint shift to expect on three types of drivers.

I didn’t even know this was a thing (the blue and green humps). I guess I’m not sensitive to it or never noticed it. Are there any videos that show this?

My Convoy L6 thread with XHP70.2, Texas Avenger FET driver, Narsil v1.2 ramping firmware (old), lighted side switch and cut down SMO reflector. Lots of amp draws on stock driver as well. 

My Supfire L5-S thread with XHP70.2, 26350 cells (4,100 lumen!), Texas Avenger FET driver, NarsilM v1.0 ramping firmware and lighted side switch. My mini L6! 

9 NarsilM user videos for BLF Q8, GT, GT Mini and ROT66

Texas_Ace BLF Calibrated Lumen tube

Maukka Calibration Lights for DIY Lumen Measuring Devices 

Review Jaxmnve M1 Stainless 10180 Keychain light

ToyKeeper
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gravelmonkey wrote:
Is muggle mode retained through cell changes?

No. Most settings are saved, but muggle mode stops when power is disconnected (or when the battery is empty). It is otherwise locked in, though.

MascaratumB
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ToyKeeper wrote:
Blink option running vote tally…

As a reminder, the options are: (where in the ramp to blink)

  • A. Floor
  • B. ~150 lm, level 65/150
  • C. ~1000 lm, level 130/150 (highest regulated level)
  • D. Ceiling

Totals:

  • A: -7
  • B: 3
  • C: 14
  • D: 3

19 votes:

I’ve been saving each vote as sort of a trinary variant of Approval voting… capital letter for +1 point, lower-case letter for +0, letter omitted entirely for -1. Originally I had planned on doing regular Approval voting, but Pulsar expressed a lukewarm opinion about option C so I added a state between “approve” and “disapprove”.

I wanna change my votes! I want A, B, C, D blinks!

I was using my D4 and realized how much I rely on visual information given by the blinks! Please, ToyKeeper, add my votes also on A and B (as I previously voted on C and D only)!
Thanks! Thumbs Up

REVIEWS : Amutorch S3 /  AM S3 vs Neal 219c  /  Amutorch AM30 / Nitefox UT20 / Sofirn SF14 & SP10A / Sofirn SP32A / Sofirn SP10B / Odepro KL52 / Acebeam H20 / SS AAA / Wuben TO10R / BlitzWolf BW-ET1 / Odepro B018 / DQG Slim Ti / XTAR PB2 Charger / Nitefox ES10K / Nitefox K3 / Amutorch AX1 / Amutorch VG10 / Olight M2R Warrior  / OTR M1

Mods and tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7     Convoy S2+ TIR Lenses: XML2 / XPL-HI     Others: Convoy S2+ Mini (Biscotti 3 & 1*7135)     Sofirn K6 Discussion: 1 / 2 / 3    Triple TIR & XP-G2                   MY GIVEAWAY (FW3A) = ACTIVE

DB Custom said: "Hide your billfold, cut up your credit cards... you're a perfect candidate for full blown flashaholism and will soon need dedicated flashlight cabinets. [...] Have fun! Modding is next... :P" 

 

ToyKeeper
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JasonWW wrote:
ToyKeeper wrote:
This shows roughly what kind of tint shift to expect on three types of drivers.
I didn’t even know this was a thing (the blue and green humps). I guess I’m not sensitive to it or never noticed it. Are there any videos that show this?

Maukka’s reviews include data on tint shift at different power levels. I also showed the effect a while back on the BLF-A6. This clip shows an A6 switching between 150 lm on the 7135 channel and 150 lm on the FET channel, with each channel used by itself. The brightness stays the same but the color changes:

http://toykeeper.net/torches/blf-a6/tintshift.avi

I took pictures at the time too, with white balance and exposure locked. Same light, same emitter, same brightness, even the same specks of dust on the lens, but different power channels producing different tints:

shirnask
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I don’t mind the blinks, happy to have all 4 (A, B, C, D)

ToyKeeper
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Blink option running vote tally…

As a reminder, the options are: (where in the ramp to blink)

  • A. Floor
  • B. ~150 lm, level 65/150
  • C. ~1000 lm, level 130/150 (highest regulated level)
  • D. Ceiling

Results: (31 votes)

  • A: 41.9%
  • B: 59.7%
  • C: 80.6%
  • D: 58.1%

Votes:

JasonWW
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ToyKeeper wrote:
JasonWW wrote:
ToyKeeper wrote:
This shows roughly what kind of tint shift to expect on three types of drivers.
I didn’t even know this was a thing (the blue and green humps). I guess I’m not sensitive to it or never noticed it. Are there any videos that show this?

Maukka’s reviews include data on tint shift at different power levels. I also showed the effect a while back on the BLF-A6. This clip shows an A6 switching between 150 lm on the 7135 channel and 150 lm on the FET channel, with each channel used by itself. The brightness stays the same but the color changes:

http://toykeeper.net/torches/blf-a6/tintshift.avi

I took pictures at the time too, with white balance and exposure locked. Same light, same emitter, same brightness, even the same specks of dust on the lens, but different power channels producing different tints:


Sorry, I don’t mean to get to off topic, but what the heck is causing this phenomenon?

The FET is constant high voltage that is pulsing to create the lower brightness, right?

What is happening on the 7135 channel?

Why would the tint shift like that?

My Convoy L6 thread with XHP70.2, Texas Avenger FET driver, Narsil v1.2 ramping firmware (old), lighted side switch and cut down SMO reflector. Lots of amp draws on stock driver as well. 

My Supfire L5-S thread with XHP70.2, 26350 cells (4,100 lumen!), Texas Avenger FET driver, NarsilM v1.0 ramping firmware and lighted side switch. My mini L6! 

9 NarsilM user videos for BLF Q8, GT, GT Mini and ROT66

Texas_Ace BLF Calibrated Lumen tube

Maukka Calibration Lights for DIY Lumen Measuring Devices 

Review Jaxmnve M1 Stainless 10180 Keychain light

JasonWW
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You can add my vote for basic A and D.

Are we still going to run NarsilM or is it going to be a variation of it?

I think Anduril?

My Convoy L6 thread with XHP70.2, Texas Avenger FET driver, Narsil v1.2 ramping firmware (old), lighted side switch and cut down SMO reflector. Lots of amp draws on stock driver as well. 

My Supfire L5-S thread with XHP70.2, 26350 cells (4,100 lumen!), Texas Avenger FET driver, NarsilM v1.0 ramping firmware and lighted side switch. My mini L6! 

9 NarsilM user videos for BLF Q8, GT, GT Mini and ROT66

Texas_Ace BLF Calibrated Lumen tube

Maukka Calibration Lights for DIY Lumen Measuring Devices 

Review Jaxmnve M1 Stainless 10180 Keychain light

Pulsar
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I’m pretty sure it’s that constant current is just that. The others using pwm are looking to be using 2 or 3, depending on the driver in the chart, current levels but is pulsing it to get the desired output…
Don’t think I’m explaining it very good, but hope the point came across lol

crz6662
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Looks pretty good, but far from what was 1st proposed. Think it would look better nice and shiny like the original rendition, but I’m still in.

netprince
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JasonWW wrote:
You can add my vote for basic A and D.

I vote the same… no blinks except for bottom and top of ramp.

I really like how the D4 resets to a fixed mode after you loosen and tighten the tail cap. It came up several pages back, but I think its a great option. I always figured the D4’s fixed level was 100% output on the 7135, and the FET turned off. (I may be wrong about that)

JasonWW
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crz6662 wrote:
Looks pretty good, but far from what was 1st proposed. Think it would look better nice and shiny like the original rendition, but I’m still in.

Your talking about the looks?

This is still being worked on. There is no final decision on this yet.

My Convoy L6 thread with XHP70.2, Texas Avenger FET driver, Narsil v1.2 ramping firmware (old), lighted side switch and cut down SMO reflector. Lots of amp draws on stock driver as well. 

My Supfire L5-S thread with XHP70.2, 26350 cells (4,100 lumen!), Texas Avenger FET driver, NarsilM v1.0 ramping firmware and lighted side switch. My mini L6! 

9 NarsilM user videos for BLF Q8, GT, GT Mini and ROT66

Texas_Ace BLF Calibrated Lumen tube

Maukka Calibration Lights for DIY Lumen Measuring Devices 

Review Jaxmnve M1 Stainless 10180 Keychain light

ToyKeeper
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JasonWW wrote:
what the heck is causing this phenomenon? Why would the tint shift like that?

LED tint rises with current. More power = more blue.

With a 2-channel driver, it can only run at two power levels, like 350mA and 10A, which gives it two tints.

In the video, I used PWM to control the brightness, using only one channel at a time, to show the difference in tint. But in actual production firmware I use both channels simultaneously to help blend from one color to the other. Despite attempts to blend though, it still has a distinct tint “elbow” which is visible during use on a smooth-ramping UI.

With three channels, it’s the same thing… only with three colors instead of two. The more distinct power levels it can run at, the closer the curve gets to a true constant current result.

JasonWW wrote:
Are we still going to run NarsilM or is it going to be a variation of it? I think Anduril?

It’s running Anduril, with some features being decided by discussion and votes. Here’s the most recent UI diagram showing most of how it works:

DB Custom
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When the PWM is used to get lower levels from a MOSFET, it’s still getting full power just pulsed, so the emitter isn’t in it’s prime efficiency range. With the single 7135 chip the emitter IS inside it’s efficiency range and so it’s more “relaxed”, giving it’s true tint. Pushed harder, even slightly past the 7135 chip level, the MOSFET gives it a more intense color being overdriven.

This is the reason the blink at the junction of where the MOSFET starts coming into play is important, it will greatly influence the output once the MOSFET is utilized. It might even be prudent to have a stop instead of a blink. Ramp the full 7135, then ramp the combined 7135/FET. That would give a more pure use of the efficient lower channel for those wishing to conserve cell life. With the full ramp taking only ~2 seconds to complete, the blink is passed by pretty quickly. Perhaps a lean towards the full 7135 to create a shelf might make it easier to hit the mark, say if 130 in the 0-255 is the mark to hit, perhaps have 5-10 130 levels so the ramp has a plateau in that spot?

Dale

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In the default configuration, the ramp stops at the highest regulated level and the only way to go higher is by double-clicking for turbo. The user can change this in the config though.

sanches
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Can be added to fasten the cord

crz6662
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@JasonWW
Yeah, I was talking about the looks. I realize it’s still being worked on. Just putting my 2 cents in.

sanches
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In my opinion, it makes look better.

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