FW3A, a TLF/BLF EDC flashlight - SST-20 available, coupon codes public

Thank you.
and apologies.
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Sorry for my bad English
(gogole translator)

Add OKCorey to the list

Interested. Thanks!

Speadge wants two. Thanks!

I agree on the training wheels muggle mode. Should be easy to get acquainted with, and for those who have difficulty with it would act as a very simple on and off mode

Please add me to the list for one.
I vote B, C and D.
Muggle Level - 3

I didn’t even know this was a thing (the blue and green humps). I guess I’m not sensitive to it or never noticed it. Are there any videos that show this?

No. Most settings are saved, but muggle mode stops when power is disconnected (or when the battery is empty). It is otherwise locked in, though.

I wanna change my votes! I want A, B, C, D blinks!

I was using my D4 and realized how much I rely on visual information given by the blinks! Please, ToyKeeper, add my votes also on A and B (as I previously voted on C and D only)!
Thanks! :+1:

Maukka’s reviews include data on tint shift at different power levels. I also showed the effect a while back on the BLF-A6. This clip shows an A6 switching between 150 lm on the 7135 channel and 150 lm on the FET channel, with each channel used by itself. The brightness stays the same but the color changes:

http://toykeeper.net/torches/blf-a6/tintshift.avi

I took pictures at the time too, with white balance and exposure locked. Same light, same emitter, same brightness, even the same specks of dust on the lens, but different power channels producing different tints:

I don’t mind the blinks, happy to have all 4 (A, B, C, D)

Blink option running vote tally…

As a reminder, the options are: (where in the ramp to blink)

  • A. Floor
  • B. ~150 lm, level 65/150
  • C. ~1000 lm, level 130/150 (highest regulated level)
  • D. Ceiling

Results: (31 votes)

  • A: 41.9%
  • B: 59.7%
  • C: 80.6%
  • D: 58.1%

Votes:

Sorry, I don’t mean to get to off topic, but what the heck is causing this phenomenon?

The FET is constant high voltage that is pulsing to create the lower brightness, right?

What is happening on the 7135 channel?

Why would the tint shift like that?

You can add my vote for basic A and D.

Are we still going to run NarsilM or is it going to be a variation of it?

I think Anduril?

I’m pretty sure it’s that constant current is just that. The others using pwm are looking to be using 2 or 3, depending on the driver in the chart, current levels but is pulsing it to get the desired output…
Don’t think I’m explaining it very good, but hope the point came across lol

Looks pretty good, but far from what was 1st proposed. Think it would look better nice and shiny like the original rendition, but I’m still in.

I vote the same… no blinks except for bottom and top of ramp.

I really like how the D4 resets to a fixed mode after you loosen and tighten the tail cap. It came up several pages back, but I think its a great option. I always figured the D4’s fixed level was 100% output on the 7135, and the FET turned off. (I may be wrong about that)

Your talking about the looks?

This is still being worked on. There is no final decision on this yet.

LED tint rises with current. More power = more blue.

With a 2-channel driver, it can only run at two power levels, like 350mA and 10A, which gives it two tints.

In the video, I used PWM to control the brightness, using only one channel at a time, to show the difference in tint. But in actual production firmware I use both channels simultaneously to help blend from one color to the other. Despite attempts to blend though, it still has a distinct tint “elbow” which is visible during use on a smooth-ramping UI.

With three channels, it’s the same thing… only with three colors instead of two. The more distinct power levels it can run at, the closer the curve gets to a true constant current result.

It’s running Anduril, with some features being decided by discussion and votes. Here’s the most recent UI diagram showing most of how it works:

When the PWM is used to get lower levels from a MOSFET, it’s still getting full power just pulsed, so the emitter isn’t in it’s prime efficiency range. With the single 7135 chip the emitter IS inside it’s efficiency range and so it’s more “relaxed”, giving it’s true tint. Pushed harder, even slightly past the 7135 chip level, the MOSFET gives it a more intense color being overdriven.

This is the reason the blink at the junction of where the MOSFET starts coming into play is important, it will greatly influence the output once the MOSFET is utilized. It might even be prudent to have a stop instead of a blink. Ramp the full 7135, then ramp the combined 7135/FET. That would give a more pure use of the efficient lower channel for those wishing to conserve cell life. With the full ramp taking only ~2 seconds to complete, the blink is passed by pretty quickly. Perhaps a lean towards the full 7135 to create a shelf might make it easier to hit the mark, say if 130 in the 0-255 is the mark to hit, perhaps have 5-10 130 levels so the ramp has a plateau in that spot?