FW3A, a TLF/BLF EDC flashlight - SST-20 available, coupon codes public

When the PWM is used to get lower levels from a MOSFET, itā€™s still getting full power just pulsed, so the emitter isnā€™t in itā€™s prime efficiency range. With the single 7135 chip the emitter IS inside itā€™s efficiency range and so itā€™s more ā€œrelaxedā€, giving itā€™s true tint. Pushed harder, even slightly past the 7135 chip level, the MOSFET gives it a more intense color being overdriven.

This is the reason the blink at the junction of where the MOSFET starts coming into play is important, it will greatly influence the output once the MOSFET is utilized. It might even be prudent to have a stop instead of a blink. Ramp the full 7135, then ramp the combined 7135/FET. That would give a more pure use of the efficient lower channel for those wishing to conserve cell life. With the full ramp taking only ~2 seconds to complete, the blink is passed by pretty quickly. Perhaps a lean towards the full 7135 to create a shelf might make it easier to hit the mark, say if 130 in the 0-255 is the mark to hit, perhaps have 5-10 130 levels so the ramp has a plateau in that spot?

In the default configuration, the ramp stops at the highest regulated level and the only way to go higher is by double-clicking for turbo. The user can change this in the config though.

Can be added to fasten the cord

@JasonWW
Yeah, I was talking about the looks. I realize itā€™s still being worked on. Just putting my 2 cents in.

In my opinion, it makes look better.

One for me pls :smiley: Thank you!

I love the look of this light. Is there any reason that a double-walled design was chosen instead of putting the driver board in the tail of the light? It seems like that would make the construction simpler and cheaper, as well as making it easy to make a version for an 18350 or 18500 cell, but I could be missing something obvious.

Thatā€™s a neat idea

You canā€™t place the driver in the tail because you still need two wires from the driver to the led in advanced drivers.

that makes senseā€¦ is the second wire for the thermal sensor?

Iā€™ve been using AndĆŗril since ToyKeeper released it back in September.

Iā€™m running it on three Q8s, three Emisars, a modded EagleEye X6R, and a modded Meteor.

AndĆŗril is, by far, my favorite flashlight UI. :heart_eyes:

The FW3A seems like an amazing flashlight for the price. Iā€™m on the list for two.

For non-modders, the FW3A is worth getting just to experience AndĆŗril! :partying_face:

Blink vote: ABD.

Iā€™d like to disable ramp memory, and have it start at 150lm like the D4 after tailcap reset.

Dead simple muggle mode.

Some reasons:

  • The thermal sensor is built into the tiny85, so it needs to be as close to the emitters as possible.
  • It would need a double-walled design (or an extra wire) either way. The driver needs access to both BAT+ and BAT-, even when the LED power is switched off.
  • Itā€™s kind of standard for flashlights to have the driver in the head end instead of the tail.

Ah, got it. Thanks for teaching me!

Not sure if I was added last time but Iā€™m interested in one unit

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NĀ° ā€¦ # 895

Please add me to the interested list.

I want one as well! Just went through 81 pages to be up to speed on the project!

Wow, 81 pages is a lotā€¦ it takes a while to read 2423 posts!

Also, I just realized that, despite being ~75% caught up, Iā€™m still 122 pages behind on the BLF GT thread. :cry:

ā€¦

That ā€œmark as readā€ button sure looks nice right now.