What did you mod today?

[Flashy_Mike]

What the origin of the name ‘Foybezel’?
Goshdogits lights look very nice but there is a disadvantage with the flat bezel: you don’t notice when the light is still on after placing it on the head. Well, actually you will notice somewhat later when you smell the smoke …

[djozz]

@Flashy Mike

What the origin of the name ‘Foybezel’? Goshdogits lights look very nice but there is a disadvantage with the flat bezel: you don’t notice when the light is still on after placing it on the head. Well, actually you will notice somewhat later when you smell the smoke …

Foy is a BLF member (who has not logged in for years now) who was famous for his very enjoyable style of posting, and for his love for Solarforce flashlights. He did not like strike bezels and started to flatten them, claiming the proces in general by calling it Foybezel^tm :party:

[Flashy_Mike]

Cool, thanks!

[goshdogit]

Thanks everyone! I really like the look of the Q8 with the flat bezel.

I sanded one as a test and immediately thought, “Dang, now I gotta do the other two.” :laughing:

@Flashy Mike

Goshdogits lights look very nice but there is a disadvantage with the flat bezel: you don’t notice when the light is still on after placing it on the head. Well, actually you will notice somewhat later when you smell the smoke …

Very true! My friend, who also owns a Q8, had a similar reaction:

“Very refined, but if you set it face down, you won’t know it’s on until it burns a hole into the center of the earth.”

My other scorchers, a D4 and two Meteors, have flat bezels. Besides, I tailstand my lights.

[Flashy_Mike]

@goshdogit

Besides, I tailstand my lights.

I’m still trying to do that …

[goshdogit]

@I

Besides, I tailstand my lights.

@FlashyMike

I’m still trying to do that …

Touché!

[DB_Custom (Dale)]

Foy was probably most notably known for his unique sign offs, he’d run everything together with no spaces between words. And he gave his “Foy Approved!” on his favorites.

WemissyouFoy!

[gchart]

I’ve considered doing something similar with my stainless bezel lights but oddly have never seen it mentioned until now. What’s the best process to keep it nice, smooth, and even?

[DB_Custom (Dale)]

Lathe.

[lotec25]

Edness,

Where did you get the white surround piece for the 70.2?

[gchart]

@DB Custom

Lathe.

Kinda figured :weary:

Now that I rudely asked a question without first searching for the answer… off I go to see the history of the FoyBezel!

Edit: found a nice post from Foy

@Foy

I recommend not using something high speed and/or overly hard to do this mod. A grinder may speed things up but the heat might discolor stainless. It gets hot enough just using an orbital. My best success is when I sand them down on the orbital starting with 100 grit. Then lightly sanding (with the orbital) with 220 grit, very lightly. Then, and this is key I believe, I use padded 150 grit and spin the bezel without sliding/moving it in any other direction, just spinning. Finally, I repeat the spinning/sanding on 320 grit padded sand paper. I believe the padded sand paper makes the bezel outside edge look more finished/professional. With regular sand paper you get a sharp edge and it would be more difficult to to smooth it evenly. All this sanding/spinning is why I use an L2r; its long body is a perfect hand-hold. I end by lightly rotating the finished bezel on very fine steel wool. I tried this because of a suggestion from someone here and it works quite well. (can’t remember who)

[goshdogit]

@gchart

I’ve considered doing something similar with my stainless bezel lights but oddly have never seen it mentioned until now. What’s the best process to keep it nice, smooth, and even?

@DB Custom

Lathe.

While standing at the belt sander, I kept thinking, “I wish I was friends with a machinist.”

gchart, I removed most of the metal using a belt sander with a 40-grit belt, and it’s slow going. I moved the bezel side-to-side across the belt, and regularly rotated it to prevent uneven wear.

I love this quote by ‘old4570’ I found in this thread while reading about grinding/filing/sanding stainless bezels:

@old4570

Stainless steel is hard, so accidents are hard.

I surprised myself by managing to keep all three Q8 bezels very flat and even. I left them installed while working so the light could act as a handle and heatsink.

What lights are you thinking of altering? Perhaps you could start with an easily-replaceable (and available) bezel in case it doesn’t work out.

[gchart]

No Q8 here. Just a couple smaller lights like the ThorFire TK15 and Sofirn SF36. If those get damaged, I’m really not out much.

[goshdogit]

@gchart

found a nice post from Foy

I read up on Foy’s methods too, and started off with an orbital sander and an 80-grit disc.

I got impatient, and I have a belt sander, so…

I allowed the lights to cool once the heads got hot to the touch. The bezels never got anywhere near the point of discoloring the stainless.

[goshdogit]

@gchart

Just a couple smaller lights like the ThorFire TK15 and Sofirn SF36.

I say, “Go for it!” :partying_face:

I don’t own either of those lights, but I looked at some photos.

It looks like the SF36’s bezel might end up rather thin along the outside edge after knocking down the high spots.

FWIW, my Q8 shows about 1.50mm along the outer edge after sanding.

Be sure to update us if you end up Foy’ing anything!

[DB_Custom (Dale)]

I’ve done this sort of thing too many times with a belt sander and a file. I still do some things that way, believe it or not.

I personally would rather add crenelations than remove them, as I head stand all my lights and like being able to see if I’ve left one on in moon mode or something.

[MRsDNF]

It’s good to see some old customs brought to life.

[Yokiamy]

I am planning my first ‘Foybezel™’ with a stainless C8 bezel after reading and seeing these beauties and informational posts

[Pulsar]

@djozz

@Flashy Mike

What the origin of the name ‘Foybezel’? Goshdogits lights look very nice but there is a disadvantage with the flat bezel: you don’t notice when the light is still on after placing it on the head. Well, actually you will notice somewhat later when you smell the smoke …

Foy is a BLF member (who has not logged in for years now) who was famous for his very enjoyable style of posting, and for his love for Solarforce flashlights. He did not like strike bezels and started to flatten them, claiming the proces in general by calling it Foybezel^tm  :party:

He was a good guy, shame he up and left again…
comesayhifoy

[gchart]

I haven’t really posted a mod in this thread in a while. Simple mod, but I swapped the LED in my ThorFire TK05. The stock “neutral white” XP-G3 was as blue as could be. I bought some Samsung LH351D 5000K from DigiKey and reflowed one onto a filed-down copper dtp board. Took some pics while I was in there, then put it back together.

Nice, truly neutral light now. And a lot more lumens. By my estimate, 50% more while in turbo and 33% more medium. Just as long of a runtime, too. More pics and details in this thread, but I’ll share a few here.

click for larger images

Beamshots [before], left to right: ThorFire TK05 (XP-G3), Klarus Mi7 (XP-L HI), Convoy M1 (XP-L 5000K)

Beamshots [after], left to right: ThorFire TK05 (LH351D 5000K), Klarus Mi7 (XP-L HI), Convoy M1 (XP-L 5000K). I apologize for the white balance difference between this and the last shot. But in comparing the three LEDs, you get the idea.

Runtimes. Disclaimer: the TK05 was tested with a Wuben-wrapped 600mah 14500. The Mi7 was using an Sanyo 800mah 14500. I need to retest with like cells.