1) when your lamp is OFF, with a press and hold you go to the last mode. (what is normally 100% output) But you can, if you want, reverse the mode order in the settings. That is the reason why its named “last mode” and not 100% .
It is not a mode memory, it is a shortcut to full output.
No, the two groups have different maximum values: 2A and 2,5A
So a 30% mode in 2A is lower than 30% in 2.5A. But normally you need a luxmeter to tell the difference.
Within 1-6 modes they are equall. And within 7-12 modes they are equall. Theoretical the difference between these two groups is 25% in amps.
With all of the reports of how hard it is to remove the head would it be of any possible benefit or maybe even a mistake to put some type of penetrating oil on it and leave it there for days or weeks? It is something I have never had any help from using but some people say they have had good results on other things. I don't need to remove the head now and may only want to once a XHP70.2 is available so I am in no hurry and can leave it on there for a while. Maybe there are reasons definitely not to do it?
One other thought that just occurred to me while writing this - would it help to try to take the head apart after running it on turbo for a while to let it heat up?
I doubt that using the led to heat the head would help as the ‘light engine’ part screws into the head, causing that to expand would work against you, a heat gun on the head with the ‘light engine’ wrapped in cool wet toweling might help as that would expand the head and not so much the ‘light engine’
I would try and find a pair of cheap rubber strap wrenches. After loosening the bezel on mine, I hand tightened it so I would be able to remove it by hand later. Nope, it’s too tight again. I had to use the strap wrenches once more. That o-ring against the lens is a real friction freak.
The head was hard to loosen, but it’s no big deal to tighten and loosen again. No tools needed after the first loosening.
I got a 2 pack of rubber strap wrenches at my local Northern Tool store for $5. They are not in Pennsylvania, but you should look at your local hardware stores. Check their bargain bins where the cheap tools are.
Lets remember that this is the GT support thread, lets try to keep it on topic for support issues as much as possible. I do not want this thread getting cluttered like the other thread.
I realize that sb has closed the other thread for people to calm down, but I am not convinced that is a good idea. Way better to keep things out in the open and not in the dark where it can fester into real problems. Also there are a lot of people on the fence about actually getting a refund and now they have no access to team members. I will wager this inability to get or give information will lead to a lot of PayPal disputes that would not have happened if it was not closed. I guess it really doesn’t matter to sb either way but Neal could have more problems because of it. Just my two cents
The issue is that there is simply no other information for me to give at this point and until there is the thread is nothing but a bunch of people getting upset over rumors.
Under FAQ emitter and output
How do I get a cooler color?
RMM offers a cooler tint
Richard swaps the LED 8$ + shipping back and force. You had to send him your GT LED-Board for this.
Thanks for the info pommie, teacher, Jason. It really is appreciated. I have strap wrenches that I put a half-hearted attempt into removing the head but to no avail. When I am physically up to it I will get more serious and am pretty confident that if others are getting it apart I will be able to.
I used a vice to hold my light because I had one. If you don’t have a vice you can position the wrenches so that one is pressing down on your bed and you push the other wrench towards it. Here is how AlexGT did it.