My reasoning was that if we bought a new TV, do we switch it on, and test it by switch off its main power abruptly. We don’t, or most people don’t. But this sudden power cut out happens during electricity outage or lightning strike and circuit breaks. It’s just an example, i don’t test everything i bought crazily.
For DX80, since you mention there was case it failed 8n certain way, i think there might be chances you drop it and its battery contact disconnect momentarily or while you disconnect the battery tube but press on its switch accidentally. So i think you should test it while under warranty.
If you think those scenario won’t happen at all, then you can skip all these and enjoy your light.
lol, yep, I was thinking the same thing. Going to enjoy the light if it works rather than worry about it. Most people love it and I am not sure how many units they sold but I think it was a lot of them and if I search youtube, not really much problems to speak about so it may just be a pretty reliable light. I am going to use it a lot and keep posting on this thread if I have any issues over the months and years or not as a good way to monitor it for others to know.
A guy on the banggood dx80 site posted it but not enough info to follow through really. This light has so much power that I may just leave it alone for testing and hope for the best.
Banggood has a 3 day DOA policy: Help Center
Last time I checked this means that only within this three day period will Banggood refund shipping back to China. Outside this period you have warranty, but you have to pay for shipping yourself, which costs around US$30~40. Something like that, no doubt it depends where you are.
So I always test my new lights within this three day period.
The problem you have described in your first post was from the first batch. Someone here posted a picture as well. I have not read about this problem since Imalent released the second batch.
A similar “test” is also done here (which was a problem in the past), check out at 5 minutes 0 seconds: The 32,000 lumen Imalent DX80 Flashlight Review & Full test of the brightest torch yet. - YouTube
The only structural recent problem I’ve read about is that the display does not work; the light is fine.
I personally would test if charging terminates automatically when full. I think you can use a DMM to check voltage. 4S2P configuration, so max voltage should be 16.8V.
Good luck, and I hope you have no problems! :partying_face:
Thanks for the help hiKARInoob! Thought I will be left in the dark with this one lol. You lost me on the 4S2P configuration, not sure what that means or how to go about it. I have a DMM but how would I test the max voltage on that battery pack. After the charger says its full, do I just unscrew the battery pack and check voltage that way?
There are eight pieces of 18650 cells inside the battery pack (Samsung 30Q). These are arranged four in series, resulting in 4 x 4.2V = 16.8V. And two of those parallel, so voltage remains 16.8V. This is the maximum (ideal) voltage when fully charged. Minor difference is of course possible.
The centre metal plate of the battery pack is the positive, and the outer metal edge is the negative. So have your DMM set for DC voltage, and put the red probe on the centre positive, and the black probe on the outer metal ring of the battery pack.
After fully charging the DX80, the OLED display should read 16.8V. If you remove the battery pack, you can check whether this value is correct. It’s just a simple test that you can do.
You always come right to the point and detail it out so a noob like me can understand. What can I say except a big thanks, that is all I needed to know to get the job done. Really appreciate the help on this.
I should have read the whole DX80 thread as all the answers were there! Next time I will search and read more before posting. If there is a way to delete this thread, please do mods!
Cheers and don’t worry about this thread. Information is scattered throughout this forum; some people complain about their DX problem on Gearbest’s sales thread only. You’ve probably read this by now, but there is also a structural problem with the XHP70.2 emitters only lightening up partially, like only half of the emitter. It’s a really odd defect.
Cheers, ok I won't overthink it then lol. Yes, I read about the problems. I wonder if it is just a defect from Cree itself? But I don't think I have read anywhere of that problem with other flashlights using the 70.2
Exactly. The interesting thing is that it’s a problem (half lit emitters) only occurring with the DX80. If it were a bad batch of Cree leds, then surely it should have been picked up by led gurus on this forum, as well as reports found of other manufacturers suffering from this bad batch. This is not the case, so I suspect it’s Imalent not doing something right. Probably incorrect reflow procedure (of the leds to the led board).
I would suspect the same. They must be aware of it as it seems to be somewhat common with the DX80. I thought they got a new manufacturer for the updated version but maybe they didn't. Maybe it's as simple as turbo mode creating too much heat and as a result all odd problems start surfacing. I've seen the youtube video where the DX80 in turbo mode sets paper on fire almost instantly.
My take on the entire DX80 thing is that this is very high performance light.
As such, not only are high quality components critical, BUT,
The workmanship during assembly has to be painstakingly and fanatically excellent.
Anything short of that will lead to failures.
Lessor workmanship would get by with low performance lights, but not this one.
I suspect the flaws come from poor assembly practices.
I agree and failure rates have to happen on anything, especially something like this because one way or another humans are involved. I've scanned youtube and the web and still I don't see too many people saying they have problems with the DX80. Curious six more months from now what pops up. I've been lucky so far that none of my flashlights cheap or high end have had any problems yet.
That was a good find on the taschenlampen forum about the short. That is possibly the guy that posted in the banggood forum that I quoted in my first post when I started this thread. I translated a little and here is what he said how it happened.
"The dx80 was not turned on at all. The flashlight was not hot. As it happened, I mechanically locked the light when it was turned on in mid or high mode, then I unscrewed the battery compartment after a second to reset the mode memory, and there was a quick flash and pop then smoke."
Then further down the thread he said he was sorry and that he unscrewed the battery a little "whilst the light was on" so maybe he just did a no no. That is a real long thread and a detailed one and it will take time to read, but from what I read so far, it is suggested never to unscrew the battery pack with the light on and one guy said his shorted but his light was off and in lock mode and he was wondering maybe not to lock it when unscrewing the battery. Lots of really good info there I must say.
Even though i cant read & understand the test parts, the It looked like a trace blew out from the photo, (at 16 volts and high amps a blown trace can arc like a welder and do some damage. Concidering the battery pack is designed for high current & volts to drive that wattage, it can likely blow out a small trace easily if surged when on turbo and unscrew the body to cause a surge.
EDIT: i just looked at my DX80, and the one i have has a different driver cover, ( without those three openings showing the driver back.
