If you have google chrome, you can also right click any page and choose "Translate to English" and will translate the whole page which makes it much easier to read a thread. I fully agree and that is why I started this thread in the first place. Now we know for sure it is a bad idea, especially with the power of the DX80. I've never done it on any of my lithium lights ever.
If i get the time i may do a amp load test (using a shunt-type amp meter with #10 gauge wires) to see how much the DX80 actually pulls from the battery pack on turbo after a full charge.
Different light, voltage and current, but it’s normal routine for something like a Convoy L6. The clicky switch does just that; it cuts off and connects power.
For a light like the DX80 there should simply be a design feature to handle manual cut off. Lot of electrical devices don’t like it when you just unplug the cord, but it is the same thing when you have a power outage. It’s not like your fridge or TV goes poof when the power comes back on. Manufacturers of course are aware of this, hence make sure it’s not a problem.
DBSAR, I'd be interested in those results. It's going to pull a lot of power for sure.
Especially when it puts out that amount of power. Another thing I noticed is that the holes in the side of the DX80 head exposes the heat sink as you can see it. Makes me wonder that it is not really waterproof and I did read somewhere, maybe even here at BLF, that someone dropped it in shallow water and it died.
I was tempted to try to take apart the head of my DX80 to see how the heat sinking is actually set up. I tried using a pair of magnifier glasses and a inspection light, and it is still difficult to see if the driver is exposed or not through those cooling fin openings.
I keep thinking that there are two big gaskets on each side of the huge heat sink; one on the led, and one on the driver side. If a gasket is misplaced, and sits not properly in its groove, then bye bye water resistance. I’m sure most of us have seen one of those Skyray King clones where part of the O ring is sticking out from the side of the lens.
I was also reading on the tashenlamp forum that the lens o-ring and foil melted on a DX80. Must have been too long in turbo I would think.
Not surprising. that number of XHP-70.2 LEDs driven as hard as they are in the DX80 is generating an immense amount of heat like a stove burner. I limit mine to maximum 10 to 15 seconds on turbo.
Manufacturers need to know max temperature of the light. Usually it’s around 50C to 70C. They need to use a material for the O ring or gasket that can easily handle something like 100C. Then you’re good. Of course if the light fails and max temperature exceeds, then the gasket can fail too.
10-15 seconds in turbo sounds about right after watching that youtube vid of the dx80 burning a paper lol
I've only read that once where the o-ring melted but you gotta think the owner may have been over enthusiastic showing off his turbo mode to all his family and friends. If I didn't start reading around here and doing searches, I could see myself firing off that turbo boost way longer than should be safe to impress the unsuspected 
I found the DX80 is safer to run longer times at its lower modes no problems. Considering how large the Foursevens XM16 was with its massive heat sinking that had, ( and still got extremely hot after running for a minute at just 16000 lumens, the DX80 is tiny in comparison with twice the output. It only makes common sense to not run it for more than a few seconds at a time on turbo-mode because there is not not enough heat sinking metal possible in such a small light body to disperse that amount of heat at that lumens output safely for any amount of time.
Makes perfect sense. Eventually there is going to be a new generation of handheld flashlights that run way longer in turbo mode once they figure out a practical way of cooling them and then all our flashlights are going to feel somewhat ancient. I think liquid cooling and all that may not be so practical for the amount of energy it would need to run, but if they found a new type of alloy that could rapidly dissipate the heat, then whoever figures that out first is going to get a huge leap in sales.
I don’t know if its correct, but this scale says that pure silver has the highest heat conductivity, ( just over pure copper) but silver definitely would not be very cost effective. > Metals, Metallic Elements and Alloys - Thermal Conductivities
My dx80 was the second reported case in the world of having the electronics short out when I did the above test, by having it in medium behind mode then rapidly unscrewing battery tube and screwing it back in. I sent it to imalent for inspection and they sent me a new dx80 immediately. I have tried the same test with the new dx80 and it has been Flawless. I have had it for about 5 months.
My dx80 was the second reported case in the world of having the electronics short out when I did the above test, by having it in medium behind mode then rapidly unscrewing battery tube and screwing it back in. I sent it to imalent for inspection and they sent me a new dx80 immediately. I have tried the same test with the new dx80 and it has been Flawless. I have had it for about 5 months.
I don’t understand why anyone would want to un-screw the battery tube on a high-current light like the DX80 while its turned on & screw it back in right after in the first place.
If you want to quickly go from High to low without cycling into 13000 lumens, you can cut the power and it will reset it back to low.
I still don't like the idea of unscrewing my dx80 with the power on, I just don't want to try it. There's 8 x 30Q high power batteries in there.
I never ever do it with any electronic switch type light while it is on, because if some can remember that Sunwayman F40A i had a few years ago that i did just that to when it was on, and the surge or sudden power cut damaged the driver. Now that light constantly flickers when on, and sometimes wont even turn on.