Klarus Mi7 Driver mod with NarsilM

I'll try to keep this short and its been awhile since I have posted my mods, so go easy on me.

The mi7 ti has a decent UI as is, so the reason I modded the light was to give it more current. 700 lumen's just isn't enough.

This is the Mi7 factory board.

I tried modding the original board. It uses a CN5711 to control the current through a sense resistor. http://www.consonance-elec.com/pdf/datasheet/DSE-CN5711.pdf

Best I can tell it has no pwm so it accomplish modes by varying the sense resistor. Which in the pic above on the right you can see the bank of resistors that all run back to a mcu at different pins on the switch side of the board. I changed several of the resistors but never gained any current in high. I could change low or med but not high. I think the mcu controls which sense resistor it uses back to ground on different pins to change modes(current).

It maybe using two in parallel for certain modes, I could never get it figured out because the resistor values never worked out to be the correct value in the datasheet for the output current. The current would never get above 1.5 amps. Datasheet says that it typical can run about 1.9 amps before the protection kicks in. I give up on this idea. I'll use a different driver.

I first used a 105c comfychair style FET mode with one 7135 left on, running JonnyC star FW (driver on the right). Using another stripped (unknown) board to be the slave (battery connection) and 105c as master, soldered it on at a 90 to mount the switch on the stripped back side, the wiring to make that work was a pain. It worked great but I couldn't lock the light out. If you unscrew the tail it will come a part before the connection is broke. So it had to be done in the FW which there was none for the attiny13a. I wasn't going to carry this little pocket rocket around unless I had some kind of lock out. So I had to choose a different driver. Since NarsilM is so popular I'll try a driver that can run it. I Purchased a few BLF X6 boards with the attiny25 from banggood. Purchased 10 attiny85's from digikey and a few small similar (Mi7 driver) switches while I was at it.

Hot aired the attiny25 off and bent the legs in on the attiny85 and reflowed to the X6 board. Loaded up Tom_E NarsilMQ8.hex. Used a stripped east92 board and cut it half with a few cut outs for clearance of the mcu. Soldered the half board on at a 90 and mounted and wired the switch on in a calculated position using the original Mi7 board for measurements.

Took a little filing here and there to get it to fit but I had to grind down the shelf in the head of the light so there was clearance for the attiny85. I used the Proxxon IBS/E and a carbide end mill to grind the Titanium.

You can see in the pic the two channels the original driver slid down into which I guess helps hold the switch in place. Wired up the led and put everything back together. Took a little tweaking to get the switch distance to button in the right place, to get a good switch response with no play.

Hello 2 flashes, Narsil up and running. Using a Efest (purple) 650mah battery it draws 3.7 amps. The best part is I can now lock the light out thanks to Tom_E. Thank you so much for this great UI. Your hard work on this code is very much appreciated.

NarsilMQ8 at moonlight setting 2.

I just wanted to add this here, if when you switch from the attiny13a programming to the attiny85 and you have any kind of problems trying to get the programmer to talk to the attiny85, go back and check to make sure all your connections are correctly wired like here. I have had my USBasp wired up according to Wiki for years, way back when Tido started this whole craze. Never gave any problems with the attiny13a but refused to work with the attiny85. Pulled all my wires out of the clip and USBasp and wired it up accordingly to hoop's guide, and bam, worked the very first time. I spent hours trying to figure out what was wrong. Maybe this will save someone the trouble. I found out from a post by Tom_E describing the same problem when he switched to the 85. Thanks again Tom_E.

Fantastic! Thanks for sharing

Very cool mod! You went all that way hacking (literally) drivers and changing firmware and now it is exactly the way you wanted!

Me and ole comfychair thought a lot a like, we didn’t know exactly how these things work but we would just keep hacking at it until it worked. I miss ole comfychair. :frowning:
I have to love the process of modding or I’d just give up, but the reward is in the end. I kind of hate to carry it now, I’m afraid I might lose it. :person_facepalming:
Thanks Djozz and for all the testing to. :wink:

Thanks agent80!

Nice :+1:

Thanks CRX!
I have seen some of the mods you have done CRX.
Awesome work! :wink:

Wow. Persistence paid of in the end. Well done. :beer:

I want to see the pics but I can’t :’(

Same with me, the pictures were there before but now they are gone, also from your Mi1C resistor mod thread.

Google photos is a bit tricky to use for picture sharing, but it works if you do the right things.

Share the picture in a public alubum
Right click on the said pic in the public album and copy the link
Paste here with the right tags

Example :

That’s the way I was doing it but I had forgot to share the links. Anyway I think the problem is solved now or I hope. I switched all my pics to imgur.
Can someone let me know if they can see All the pics above.

Just noticed I quoted your post above and now your image turns to a link.

Pictures are back! :slight_smile:

Thanks for letting me know djozz. I had no idea they were not showing up. What a pain in the a. Anyway I got all my pics transferred over to imgur now. Just hope they don’t start demanding money for link sharing. :smiley:

I miss old Comfey chair too …he was such a pain in the ass .

I’m glad to see you all here it’s comforting …

can we buy the drivers from you to make our light kick a55? :smiley:

That’s not a bad idea, My original driver is still intact and could be slipped right back in if needed.
I got way to much time in the driver to make it worth my wild though. The pain is the switch with the 90 degree half board. It has to be just right or the switch takes a very hard press to work or its way to response. The ground connection on one side of the switch is soldered to the outside ring of the 90 board and the 90 boards outside ring is soldered to the outside ring of the BLF X6 BOARD. The other side of the switch is connected to the attiny 85 at pin #2.
Now if Lexel could come up with some boards that be the ticket. I got a another Mi7 just waiting for a heart transplant. :wink:

I have this light and would really like to do something similar but I’m still pretty new. I’ve just reflashed all my at tiny 85 and at tiny 1634 chips but the Android app I’m using z flasher avr doesn’t have an option for the cn5711. Also I’m not sure if my pinout is the same and I’m hoping you might be able to shed some light on how to wire the soic 8 clip or where I might be able to take it. I just really don’t like having to click through the settings to turn it off