Does somebody have this FURA model? Seems really good with titanium and d2.
If got another fura and i can say they use some serieus good steel on their knives.
Looks nice, steel is nice, but very very thick blade – not very good slicer it seems, with such thickness behind the edge it is almost like an axe profile. All Fura I have seen were too thick IMHO.
Yeah 4mm is crazy and the weight is a little high too for my taste.
But still it seems solid and 29 dollar is just crazy for a titanium framelock with ball bearigs and flipper and steel insert/overtravel stop.
The fura even has the metal disc between ball bearings and titanium so the balls dont rub into it. Also a internal stop pin. Looks like a simple design with not a lot of extra parts which i really like.
—
"It wouldn’t be so bright if there wasn’t a shadow every once in a while." - Jason Mraz
the answer from the seller for f111 sizes :
Full length: 22.1cm
Blade length: 9.2cm
Handle length: 13cm
too big for me…
I found mine (previous version with fuller and Shirogorov logo on the blade).
My measurements are almost the same:
Full length: 221 mm
Blade length: 96 mm
Handle length: 128 mm
Any recommendations on a good torx bit set. I have several and I don’t know if they are cheap or if the Chinese use metric or what but I can not seem to get the pocket clip off a Ganzo knife. Any help is appreciated.
So what is AliExpress trying to achieve by not showing things like locking mechanisms, fullers, etc? It’s like they want to sell the products based on fake pictures of the item.
Just got my 910+ that I ordered 10 days ago. I made right choice by buying 910+ instead of 9103/4. With my big hands, 910+ fits perfect, couldn’t be happier, can’t stop playing with it
Just got my 910+ that I ordered 10 days ago. I made right choice by buying 910+ instead of 9103/4. With my big hands, 910+ fits perfect, couldn’t be happier, can’t stop playing with it
But… if 9103/4 has the same size than 910+, they fit in the same way than 910+ on your hands.
The 910+ has g10 texture and liner lock, the others steel handles and frame lock, but they are the same knife really.
Just got my 910+ that I ordered 10 days ago. I made right choice by buying 910+ instead of 9103/4. With my big hands, 910+ fits perfect, couldn’t be happier, can’t stop playing with it
But… if 9103/4 has the same size than 910+, they fit in the same way than 910+ on your hands.
The 910+ has g10 texture and liner lock, the others steel handles and frame lock, but they are the same knife really.
I’ve been told 910+ is ‘bulkier’ because of G10 grips, don’t know how much is that true. 9103/4 is frame lock which makes it slimmer? I’ll order 9103 for my dad and will see the difference.
Just got my 910+ that I ordered 10 days ago. I made right choice by buying 910+ instead of 9103/4. With my big hands, 910+ fits perfect, couldn’t be happier, can’t stop playing with it
But… if 9103/4 has the same size than 910+, they fit in the same way than 910+ on your hands.
The 910+ has g10 texture and liner lock, the others steel handles and frame lock, but they are the same knife really.
I’ve been told 910+ is ‘bulkier’ because of G10 grips, don’t know how much is that true. 9103/4 is frame lock which makes it slimmer? I’ll order 9103 for my dad and will see the difference.
The 9103/9104 feels much slimmer compared to the 910+ (handle thickness 10.4 mm vs. 13.2 mm).
I’ve been told 910+ is ‘bulkier’ because of G10 grips, don’t know how much is that true. 9103/4 is frame lock which makes it slimmer? I’ll order 9103 for my dad and will see the difference.
I have 9103/4 and 910+
I prefer 9103/4 … it is slimmer, heavier and thus has a more dense ‘solid’ feel, which I like. Much nicer ‘thunk’ sound when it opens also.
For sure the G10 of 910+ gives a little bit more grip (esp in the wet).
The series overall are very good value for money so buy both ! I am hoping Gearbest can stock the titanium version
The 9103/4 is a bit more difficult to open, esp. for non knife people as the fingers tend to lay on the lockbar while trying to flick the knife.
While this is definitely true, the 910x also have some slight variations in their lockbar tension.
I received both the 9103 and 9104 at the same time.
The 9104 was fine, but on the 9103 I had to slightly bend the lockbar outwards like Isti mentioned in order to be able to thumb roll the blade, the tension was a bit high from the factory in order to be able to do that.
And I am a knife people
As from Xatu’s comment about the 910+ and 910x being essentially the same knives, yes, the length dimensions are the same but the thickness of the 910+ due to the G10 scales makes it for a much wider and hand filling knife. While I personally prefer the 910x for being classier, thinner and slightly heavier, I can see how someone with L or XL hands would prefer the 910+ for comfort.
On a side note, it looks like CBSA’s revision of their own knife import rules has allowed them to take yet another knife from me, a Loscha clone.
The tracking shows that the knife arrived in Canada 3 weeks ago, yet I haven’t got it.
I’m expecting to receive a letter from CBSA any day now, what a bunch of BS…..
It’s very easy, you don’t even need to take the knife apart. As Isti mention, just remove the pocket clip and bend the lockbar just a little at the time until you get the desire tension.
Just make sure to not bend too much at once.
The 9103/4 is a bit more difficult to open, esp. for non knife people as the fingers tend to lay on the lockbar while trying to flick the knife.
While this is definitely true, the 910x also have some slight variations in their lockbar tension.
I received both the 9103 and 9104 at the same time.
The 9104 was fine, but on the 9103 I had to slightly bend the lockbar outwards like Isti mentioned in order to be able to thumb roll the blade, the tension was a bit high from the factory in order to be able to do that.
And I am a knife people
As from Xatu’s comment about the 910+ and 910x being essentially the same knives, yes, the length dimensions are the same but the thickness of the 910+ due to the G10 scales makes it for a much wider and hand filling knife. While I personally prefer the 910x for being classier, thinner and slightly heavier, I can see how someone with L or XL hands would prefer the 910+ for comfort.
On a side note, it looks like CBSA’s revision of their own knife import rules has allowed them to take yet another knife from me, a Loscha clone.
The tracking shows that the knife arrived in Canada 3 weeks ago, yet I haven’t got it.
I’m expecting to receive a letter from CBSA any day now, what a bunch of BS…..
Interesting my 9104 was also fine but I had to adjust all of my 9103s.
Did you order the alu integral version of the “Loscha”?
Guys, recommend me please nice quality, budget butterfly knife please.
Mike
Have a look at the MT Tachyon II clones on DHGate. I have the tanto version with satin finish and it`s pretty smooth. It also comes with a spring loaded latch.
A 9103 arrived last week. It’s super difficult to open compared to my 910+. Probably just a bad specimen.
I much prefer the grippier 910+ regardless. The slightly thicker handle doesn’t bother me.
It’s not the first time I hear that. The retention ball or hole where the 9103/4 fits is different from the 910+, which is more difficult to open (9103/4). There’s some trick out there to leave them just like the 910+.
I just took apart my workmate’s 9104 and my 910+ and installed my carbon fiber front scale and the cf clip.
The blade and the other hardware are interchangeable and my workmate said, he’d like a dual scaled black cf version with a black blade, maybe I’ll try how that’s looking.
Side not. I didn’t speak about lockbar tension when I said it’s a bit trickier to open it but most people have their middle finger on the lockbar when the try to open the knife.
The tension on this 9104 is good but soon I’ll have to carbidize the lock, it’s way over 80% already, even though it’s centered and has no wiggle or scratching from the ball bearing when I slightly push away the lockbar to check the pivot screw’s tightness.
Btw, I like that little rubber washer under the pivot screw on the 9104, much better solution than (red) loctite.
The only screw that needed some heat to break the loctite was the clip screw.
I tried to sharpen the knife but seems im making it more dull. Im swiping the knife as upright as i can, full length of the blade, first on the coarse rod, then on the less coarse.
What angle do these knifes come stock, 22.5? The options on the lansky is either 20 or 25. By now ive been swiping probably 50 times on each set of rods but my knife is far from sharp. Seems it was sharper before i started.
Your blade must be really dull? Or maybe you got a bad knife, it could happen.
Personally I like to use the Lansky Blade Medic when a blade is really dull. Use the carbide first with a controlled pressure (because it will remove metal quite a bit if too much pressure) to recreate a V-edge.
Otherwise I have good results with the Lansky 2 rod system like yours.
I tried to sharpen the knife but seems im making it more dull. Im swiping the knife as upright as i can, full length of the blade, first on the coarse rod, then on the less coarse.
What angle do these knifes come stock, 22.5? The options on the lansky is either 20 or 25. By now ive been swiping probably 50 times on each set of rods but my knife is far from sharp. Seems it was sharper before i started.
I use the 40 degree (2×20) settings on my Spyderco Sharpmaker for sharpening my Ganzo folders. So the 20 option should work at the Lansky too.
Do you keep the blade perpendicular to the base of the sharpener during sharpening? That’s the key of these V systems.
You should avoid adding too much pressure on the blade during the process.
Marking the edge with a sharpie (permanent marker) is also a good trick for checking the progress of sharpening and the angle. You must remove all of the permanent marker at the edge during sharpening before moving to the fine stone.
I agree, use the sharpie trick mentioned above and you most likely see that you’re not keeping your angle right and instead of sharpening, you’re dulling the blade, it happened to me the first time I used the sharpmaker.
These do take some time and practice to get the hang of it.
It is. After reviewing the blue one I ordered a grey one too. Both of them are excellent flippers.
isti
The fura even has the metal disc between ball bearings and titanium so the balls dont rub into it. Also a internal stop pin. Looks like a simple design with not a lot of extra parts which i really like.
"It wouldn’t be so bright if there wasn’t a shadow every once in a while." - Jason Mraz
I found mine (previous version with fuller and Shirogorov logo on the blade).
My measurements are almost the same:
Full length: 221 mm
Blade length: 96 mm
Handle length: 128 mm
isti
this is a quality set with properly hardened bits. It has been confirmed that Wiha is actually the maker.
No more spydie holes shown on aliexpress
Flashlights, blades & beer
Let’s stay relatively optimist!
So what is AliExpress trying to achieve by not showing things like locking mechanisms, fullers, etc? It’s like they want to sell the products based on fake pictures of the item.
Trying to avoid companies like Spyderco or even AE themselves bothering them with copyright stuff I guess.
Just got my 910+ that I ordered 10 days ago. I made right choice by buying 910+ instead of 9103/4. With my big hands, 910+ fits perfect, couldn’t be happier, can’t stop playing with it
But… if 9103/4 has the same size than 910+, they fit in the same way than 910+ on your hands.
The 910+ has g10 texture and liner lock, the others steel handles and frame lock, but they are the same knife really.
My reviews about knives: : http://chinese-knives.blogspot.com/
Got my fura mini knife I ordered.
That thing is really small…
Here it is with my cryo 2 (the bigger version)
I’ve been told 910+ is ‘bulkier’ because of G10 grips, don’t know how much is that true. 9103/4 is frame lock which makes it slimmer? I’ll order 9103 for my dad and will see the difference.
A 9103 arrived last week. It’s super difficult to open compared to my 910+. Probably just a bad specimen.
I much prefer the grippier 910+ regardless. The slightly thicker handle doesn’t bother me.
The 9103/9104 feels much slimmer compared to the 910+ (handle thickness 10.4 mm vs. 13.2 mm).
isti
Remove the pocket clip then bend the lock-bar slightly outwards. That solved the problem for me.
isti
The 9103/4 is a bit more difficult to open, esp. for non knife people as the fingers tend to lay on the lockbar while trying to flick the knife.
If you position your fingers on the clip instead it’s working same well as the 910+
For me the G10 scales could be slightly thinner, like 1/4th of the actual thickness, then they’d be perfect and not that bulky in my jeans pocket.
http://adahnsplace.blogspot.ch
I have 9103/4 and 910+
I prefer 9103/4 … it is slimmer, heavier and thus has a more dense ‘solid’ feel, which I like. Much nicer ‘thunk’ sound when it opens also.
For sure the G10 of 910+ gives a little bit more grip (esp in the wet).
The series overall are very good value for money so buy both ! I am hoping Gearbest can stock the titanium version
While this is definitely true, the 910x also have some slight variations in their lockbar tension.
I received both the 9103 and 9104 at the same time.
The 9104 was fine, but on the 9103 I had to slightly bend the lockbar outwards like Isti mentioned in order to be able to thumb roll the blade, the tension was a bit high from the factory in order to be able to do that.
And I am a knife people
As from Xatu’s comment about the 910+ and 910x being essentially the same knives, yes, the length dimensions are the same but the thickness of the 910+ due to the G10 scales makes it for a much wider and hand filling knife. While I personally prefer the 910x for being classier, thinner and slightly heavier, I can see how someone with L or XL hands would prefer the 910+ for comfort.
On a side note, it looks like CBSA’s revision of their own knife import rules has allowed them to take yet another knife from me, a Loscha clone.
The tracking shows that the knife arrived in Canada 3 weeks ago, yet I haven’t got it.
I’m expecting to receive a letter from CBSA any day now, what a bunch of BS…..
I can’t thumb either of them open as it is now. Need both thumb and wrist flick. I’ll see if I can adjust the lock a bit.
It’s very easy, you don’t even need to take the knife apart. As Isti mention, just remove the pocket clip and bend the lockbar just a little at the time until you get the desire tension.
Just make sure to not bend too much at once.
Interesting my 9104 was also fine but I had to adjust all of my 9103s.
Did you order the alu integral version of the “Loscha”?
isti
Yep, but unfortunately it doesn’t look like I’ll be getting it
Guys, recommend me please nice quality, budget butterfly knife please.
Mike
Think of how stupid the average person is, and realize half of them are stupider than that. George Carlin
Anyone offended by my signature please fill Complaint Form. Thank you.
Have a look at the MT Tachyon II clones on DHGate. I have the tanto version with satin finish and it`s pretty smooth. It also comes with a spring loaded latch.
isti
It’s not the first time I hear that. The retention ball or hole where the 9103/4 fits is different from the 910+, which is more difficult to open (9103/4). There’s some trick out there to leave them just like the 910+.
My reviews about knives: : http://chinese-knives.blogspot.com/
I just took apart my workmate’s 9104 and my 910+ and installed my carbon fiber front scale and the cf clip.
The blade and the other hardware are interchangeable and my workmate said, he’d like a dual scaled black cf version with a black blade, maybe I’ll try how that’s looking.
Side not. I didn’t speak about lockbar tension when I said it’s a bit trickier to open it but most people have their middle finger on the lockbar when the try to open the knife.
The tension on this 9104 is good but soon I’ll have to carbidize the lock, it’s way over 80% already, even though it’s centered and has no wiggle or scratching from the ball bearing when I slightly push away the lockbar to check the pivot screw’s tightness.
Btw, I like that little rubber washer under the pivot screw on the 9104, much better solution than (red) loctite.
The only screw that needed some heat to break the loctite was the clip screw.
http://adahnsplace.blogspot.ch
Hello guys, i could use some help.
I have a Ganzo G704 (440 steel) and its getting due for a sharpening. I bought a Lansky sharpener https://www.amazon.com/Lansky-2D2C-Diamond-Ceramic-Four/dp/B008EKY5OA/re...
I tried to sharpen the knife but seems im making it more dull. Im swiping the knife as upright as i can, full length of the blade, first on the coarse rod, then on the less coarse.
What angle do these knifes come stock, 22.5? The options on the lansky is either 20 or 25. By now ive been swiping probably 50 times on each set of rods but my knife is far from sharp. Seems it was sharper before i started.
Your blade must be really dull? Or maybe you got a bad knife, it could happen.
Personally I like to use the Lansky Blade Medic when a blade is really dull. Use the carbide first with a controlled pressure (because it will remove metal quite a bit if too much pressure) to recreate a V-edge.
Otherwise I have good results with the Lansky 2 rod system like yours.
Flashlights, blades & beer
Let’s stay relatively optimist!
I use the 40 degree (2×20) settings on my Spyderco Sharpmaker for sharpening my Ganzo folders. So the 20 option should work at the Lansky too.
Do you keep the blade perpendicular to the base of the sharpener during sharpening? That’s the key of these V systems.
You should avoid adding too much pressure on the blade during the process.
Marking the edge with a sharpie (permanent marker) is also a good trick for checking the progress of sharpening and the angle. You must remove all of the permanent marker at the edge during sharpening before moving to the fine stone.
isti
I agree, use the sharpie trick mentioned above and you most likely see that you’re not keeping your angle right and instead of sharpening, you’re dulling the blade, it happened to me the first time I used the sharpmaker.
These do take some time and practice to get the hang of it.
Thank you, very good pointers. I will try that.
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