Got two boards today from Simon with Biscotti driver on it, replaced the boards on two of my desert tan S2+ and what a difference, it is just like I wanted, I use group 2.
I was not happy with the old driver delivered from GB but if you do it like this it is still cheap. Paid €11,75 with coupon for the S2+ and paid €3,50 for each board with Biscotti on it.
that’s a very good price, BG is more expensive, and yes, Biscotti is very nice, more modes and a lower low (still not low enough) without blink and regulated, this driver rules!
And you can even stack 7135’s for more output
Hmmm stacking :smiling_imp: I have 2 scrap boards with 8x 7135 on each after this upgrade, but my S2+ has XPL-Hi and if I check the specs it only can handle 3A, I have to read on that one, but I am not sure if it’s worth it, the gain is probably not visible.
XPL HI is able to handle higher currents, see TA’s tests !
I got an X6 driver in my C8 XPLHI, no problemo.
i’ve stacked a driver as well, but later on changed it for a DD driver, here’s some info for stacking
Succes!
Great, thanks for the links, specially the TA’s test is very useful. Wel then I got something to do tonight or tomorrow :smiling_imp:
Remember, it will get hot!
The mass of the S2+ will not handle heat as well as a C8/L2/L6
Yes it does get hot 
Just finished the mod, and I found out I am getting old :weary: had some trouble with shaky hands, last time I soldered tiny things was on a PS2 years ago.
I lost the 0.1% after adding 4 more 7135’s. So I am on group 10 now (1, 10, 35% and 100). I can understand loosing 0.1, I didn’t check the topic about Biscotti but I guess it is configured to a certain current draw.
The S2+ has 12x 7135’s now, before I started I tested the output simple way by just bouncing the light from ceiling to my Lux meter and it was 109 lux after the mod it jumped to 156 lux, so there is definitely a gain.
Some pictures, salvaging the 7135’s:
Finished the mod, with sloppy soldering job:
Nice work!
I see a dutch modding spree! 
For a couple of years it felt a bit lonely here, perhaps in secret there was flashlight modding going on, but at least not many dutch people posted about it.
Maybe not geographically, but the Dutch are definitely here.
SpAwN: Welcome, I’m recently joined, like you, and I found a wealth of information here. I have no doubt you’ll spend way too many lots of hours here. 
Thanks Yokiamy.
djozz, I like to play around with electronics, but I didn’t do anything last 4 years, we bought a house and I was mainly busy with the house itself. At the beginning setup my hobby room like my old room but expand it because it had more space. All my equipment was just sitting there and being pretty. I am glad to pick up a new hobby, reading a lot on the forums, I see a lot useful stuff from you, thanks for that
Can,t wait till I got the new metal button I ordered, I want lighted tail cap on my desert tan. I might try something today see if it works.
Hi Alienon2wheels, yes I do spend a lot of hours here along with a lot of money :person_facepalming:
And I got a black metal lighted tail cap, there was alcohol involved with it, and it wasn’t me consuming it :disappointed:
I was sure I had some clear 3mm fiber laying around but I couldn’t find it, so for testings sake I used a clear 3mm led and I whis I never sold my lathe I missed it a lot today 
Drilled a 3mm hole in the button, since it is aluminium I had to cool it with alcohol, but since the vice on Proxxon bench drill can’t be locked and I need one hand for the injector with alcohol in it and other hand for the drill to push it down, I couldn’t hold the button and because of that the hole wasn’t in the center of the button. But next time I will use my Proxxon milling machine, that one has better options to clamp the button down.
Anyways whats done is done, it was for testing purposes anyways.
Drilled one 3mm hole through the button and drilled another 3.8mm till half way, this way I could push 3mm till it was locked and than prepared the led, again this led is not to light up it is just for letting the light through. I didn’t have anything else to test with:
I already had a 6x 0805 green LED tail switch board from yesterday, so I dialed the potentiometer till it was 150µA, then I had the issue with next memory thing on the drivers so added a 1kOhm resistor at the driver side, after adding the bleeder I checked the current at tail cap and it was 169µA. The result is fine, I wish the hole was in the center, but next time I will make sure it will be, I will order some 3mm clear fiber.
I will message Simon to ask if he sells black buttons. I like the black button with light in, but I want the hole in the center.
I have got a spare black for you, do you happen to have a retaining ring for me?
Retaining ring? What size do you need, to be sure (je bedoelt toch een borg ring?)
There is a lot different retaining rings.
PM
WHOA!! :confounded:
Nice job with the metal switch SpAwN! I’ve always wanted to add a lighted switch to a red/blue/green Convoy S2+, but didn’t think it would be bright enough. This certainly is a way to resolve that.
Have you thought about just filling the hole with clear silicone caulk?
Thanks NeutralFan, clear silicone could work too, I wanted diffused effect with plexiglas but didn’t have any plexiglas rod at home so I came up with the 3mm led. But I will be ordering some rods soon, first I have to check how big the hole can be so I can use largest possible rod in there. Ordered some metal buttons here when these arrive I will be experimenting more. But next time I will be using a milling machine with a divider head, to make sure the hole is in the center.
Nice to see other Dutch people here :).
Ook welkom