Water Cooled MONSTER 1500 watts

Here’s my (German) thread where I calculated that.

Guinness world record is coming. LoL.

Crazy build :slight_smile: :+1:

you might run into pump trouble. 1500W with 2x280s will surely exceed the maximum allowed Pump temperature.

Where is the pocket clip?

I can’t wait to see this. I’ve wanted to do a build like this for a long time, but didn’t have the resources. It’s good to see someone actually doing it.

That shouldn’t be a problem if the pump is after the radiators unless the radiators can’t provide adequate cooling.

Subscribed!

the water temps in such a loop don’t differ much before and after the rads because of the high flow rate. Single digit K at max.

It’s a common misconception that you get “cold” and “hot” parts in the loop.

The bigger the difference between coolant and ambient, the more heat can be removed by the rads, but this is limited by the pump he chose

You gonna track Elons Roadster with it?

Nah, I calculated that myself over a year ago :slight_smile:

When you drive it at 2x the base spec you get the 500W 70k lumens.
Still really good efficiency, over 100lm/w, assuming it is cooled properly.

Temperature difference before and after a radiator is a fraction of a degree, unless you have a really weak pump and low flow rate.

Subbed. I gotta see what you do with thoes CXA’s! o.O

Cones are hollow.

Over 100 volts could be an issue though :stuck_out_tongue:

Maybe send some morse code.

Its an EK pump that cost me AUD $120ish so the quality is there.

I know, I’m using the same pump. Maximum coolant temperature is specified at 50°.

1500W with 2x 280 rads will exceed 50° coolant temperature. If you only use it for short(ish) bursts and do not let the coolant reach maximum temperature you might be ok.
Adding a coolant temperature sensor + display (these are available for under 20:money_mouth_face: might be a relatively easy fix, so you can switch off or reduce power when it aproaches critical temps.

Rear panel and front panel cut, front led positions marked out.

Chassis and fan holes cut.

Front view showing the “Water Block” in position.

Chassis “Finished”

Frame getting painted. Metal etch primer all over then Epoxy enamel for the inside and truck bed liner for the outside.

Subscribed.

Interesting…

Weird!
Maybe they are only supposed to block one’s direct view of the emitter?

yep i’ll subscribe to this