Never read about it. There is thermal step down, so the light should not switch off or something. The indicator should turn red at 3.4V IIRC. And if I’m not mistaken this means at 3.7V resting voltage, if you go to turbo form there, you will have sag until 3.4V so red light turns on. This also means if you then go to a low output, voltage will rise again above 3.4V and light turns green again.
It sounds like a defect to me, but maybe freeme or anyone else knows more about this?
Actually I think it is because of the low battery. I put in full charged batteries and it does not automatically turn off anymore. Also I think it is more than 8000 lumens when running with fully charged VTC6. I get ceiling bounce of 1,220 lux whereas my Emisar D4 XP-L HI v2 4000k reaches 420 lux for 1st second and drops to 370-380 lux in 2-3 seconds. The D4 should be about 4000 lumens at max output. However, its strange my 1,600 lumens BLF A6 XPL V6 with fully charged VTC6 reaches 200 lux and Astrolux S42 219c 5000k gets 209 lux at startup. The BLF A6 is supposed to be 1440 lumens without sprint bypass mod.
I will do a few more ceiling bounce test to compare with other lights I have coming in when I get them, which includes the Manker MK34, Haikelite MT09R XHP70.2, and Noctigon M43, just to name a few. Yea flashlights are addictive…
Understand it is Spring Festival / CNY now so shipping most likely won’t happen for at least another week or two, but keen on this light if GB price is still available. Thanks.
Yes. I am asking for more comparisons, I am also just waiting for shipment Manker MK34 to compare with Astrolux MF01 Nichia 219c V1
I’d like a group buy code if it’s still available please.
Thanks very much.
I have here a MF01 that was sent to me for mod, but I cant get the bezel off
I tried heat it to 150°C without success
Please try counter clock wise this time.
(j/k 
)
are you serious?
j/k = just kidding. I know you da man. :+1:
How are you turning it, with rubber strap wrenches?
Great job Banggood gluing the bezel with red locktite
Took me almost 2 straight hours to get it open having to drive to my parents home on top to use a big vise to clamp it
And now the optics and lens is all over with that stuff
Good old Hermetic red glue :smiling_imp: . He keeps bombs :smiling_imp: , no temperature or chemistry does not move it. Only a strength solution.
How easy is it to remove the little plastic discs so that flat top cells can be used? And is there any disadvantage to doing this?
I am back at my home, after I had to drive to my parents house to get hands on that stationary vise
I’ve heard it’s easy to remove them.
They are there to provide polarity protection. As long as you always put your batteries in the right way you will be fine.
Only if you put a battery in wrong by accident will you fry the driver.
The driver will be fine with reverse polority, but if you short 2 parallel batteries you will melt the springs
I use standard 30Q flattop with the disks, I do not removed the disks
PS. My MF01 came with glued bezel, I removed it with a pair of engine oil filter wrenches
I was able to pry them off pretty easily with just my fingernails, although it did look like there was a little bit of glue used to secure them in place. As Jason said, they are really only there to provide a physical reverse polarity protection, but if you are careful there should be no issue removing them. A few people have mentioned using flat tops with the disks still in place, but I’d just go ahead and remove them to ensure good contact is made. I’m using Sony VTC6 cells in my MF01.
Here are my updated lumen estimate on the MF01 (Version 2?) I received a few days ago from Bangood.
I just received my Olight H2R Nova NW. I measured 308 lux. The H2R Nova NW was measured at 2,360 lumens by Maukka in his review on CPF
TLF also measured two different units of the H2R Nova NW at 2,380 and 2,420 lumens
Assuming 308lux equals 2,360 lumens (which I think is reasonable because the Acebeam H15 XHP70.2 CW advertised at 2,500 lumens measured 315 lux by me) here are the estimated lumens:
MF01 (V2?) 219c 5000k measures 1,220 lux equates to 9,348 lumens
9000-10000 lumens for the Nichia sounds right