Great job Banggood gluing the bezel with red locktite
Took me almost 2 straight hours to get it open having to drive to my parents home on top to use a big vise to clamp it
And now the optics and lens is all over with that stuff
Good old Hermetic red glue :smiling_imp: . He keeps bombs :smiling_imp: , no temperature or chemistry does not move it. Only a strength solution.
How easy is it to remove the little plastic discs so that flat top cells can be used? And is there any disadvantage to doing this?
I am back at my home, after I had to drive to my parents house to get hands on that stationary vise
I’ve heard it’s easy to remove them.
They are there to provide polarity protection. As long as you always put your batteries in the right way you will be fine.
Only if you put a battery in wrong by accident will you fry the driver.
The driver will be fine with reverse polority, but if you short 2 parallel batteries you will melt the springs
I use standard 30Q flattop with the disks, I do not removed the disks
PS. My MF01 came with glued bezel, I removed it with a pair of engine oil filter wrenches
I was able to pry them off pretty easily with just my fingernails, although it did look like there was a little bit of glue used to secure them in place. As Jason said, they are really only there to provide a physical reverse polarity protection, but if you are careful there should be no issue removing them. A few people have mentioned using flat tops with the disks still in place, but I’d just go ahead and remove them to ensure good contact is made. I’m using Sony VTC6 cells in my MF01.
Here are my updated lumen estimate on the MF01 (Version 2?) I received a few days ago from Bangood.
I just received my Olight H2R Nova NW. I measured 308 lux. The H2R Nova NW was measured at 2,360 lumens by Maukka in his review on CPF
TLF also measured two different units of the H2R Nova NW at 2,380 and 2,420 lumens
Assuming 308lux equals 2,360 lumens (which I think is reasonable because the Acebeam H15 XHP70.2 CW advertised at 2,500 lumens measured 315 lux by me) here are the estimated lumens:
MF01 (V2?) 219c 5000k measures 1,220 lux equates to 9,348 lumens
9000-10000 lumens for the Nichia sounds right
You know, after having the chance to compare the Nichia version to the Cree, I do notice that the Nichia is not as bright. The tint is fantastic however. The Nichia falls out of turbo a bit faster. Out of the two though I’m disappointed with the turbo time on both of them. Comparing them to my NW x7 Olight Marauder, the turbo lasts considerably longer. In reality I’d say the realistic use of MF-01 is 3000 to 5000 lumens. Comparing that to the Olight x7 on turbo level one, 5500, it’s a little disappointing.
Just ordered the Nichia version, thanks Freeme.
Although I may have to wait extra long for delivery because of Chinese New Year I presume…
The thermal step down of MF-01 219C V1 was optimal. V2 will now operate at lower temperatures and Turbo will fall off quickly. I am also dissatisfied with 219C V2 thermal step down 
Astrolux S42 219C was a wonderful tint like MF-01 219C V 1. For the arrival this month, it was a bad thing like green tint like MF-01 219C V 2…
I ordered XP-G3. freeme,Thank you so much 
I got my mf01 219c ladt week and dont Notice any green tint. Im very sensitive any green in the beam. The step down ilsucks though. It occurs in like 30s and is very drastic.
Hello guys,
This is my first post on this forum and I hope you guys can help me
I recently received my MF-01 (nichia 219C version) and it seems like I got a defective V1.
When I press the button, nothing happens almost all the time.
Here is a video about my problem :
And now it doesn’t turn on anymore.
I’m using 4x fully charged Samsung INR18650-30Q.
What do you think ? Just a defective button ? Or driver ?
Are the batteries button top?
It looks like they are getting good contact, but I want to be sure. See if the carrier ends show 8.4v. It’s possible it’s getting 4.2v which could make the switch light turn on, but the driver may not work properly.
If that is all good, then it could be a bad switch. Since the switch works sometimes, I assume it’s wires are connected. I can also hear it clicking, so the rubber boot is making contact. You can bypass the contacts in the switch by unscrewing the switch bezel and pulling it out.
Someone who has taken this model apart can tell you which two wires to temporarily jump together to simulate pressing the button. If this makes it work reliably when you know you got a bad switch PCB. If it still acts funny then it’s probably going to be your driver.
Thanks for the quick answer.
I’ve tried using both button top and flat top and it worked a few times (I even managed to switch between the differents modes). I’m getting 8.3v currently so the batteries are making good contact.
I don’t have a small enought screwdriver to take apart the battery tube. In any ways the light is faulty and I will ask banggood for a refund or resend and I will then see what I can do with this unit (but if the driver is faulty I’m affraid there is nothing that I can do)
I have an issue with one of my carriers where one of the brass buttons is not flush, so only a corner of the batteries positive terminal makes contact. I wonder if all of your batteries are making a solid connection? I would imagine having poor contact would prevent high amp draw to the driver.
I’m trying to get my carrier replaced because of the defect.
Are you talking to Raven450?
That doesn’t seem to be his problem, but it certainly doesn’t hurt anything to try adding that spacer.