The SYNIOSBEAM - CFT90 recoil thrower

Yes, it is not a good solution.
If you want to use laser it should be directly to a heatsinked phosphor, preferably single crystal, not an LED.

This project is not for laser, it’s LED only, I have plans for future projects that can use laser.
Not only is it less safe but it costs several thousand dollars for the lasers and crystals alone.
Also won’t count as an “LED” flashlight/searchlight, which is hat I’m currently trying to break the record of :slight_smile:

Its like a wavien collar increasing the output and intensity of the LED

By almost nothing, since the LED is already running near the limit of it’s heat transfer capacity. Laser-Phosphor-Erweiterung von Projekt Excalibur | Taschenlampen Forum
A wavien collar actually gives more than 2x increase.

Any useful amount of laser power is just going to speed the burn up of the phosphor.
This is why the phosphor needs to be directly heatsinked.

How much more we need to wait for miracle beam?

You know about that $ I was talking to you? You will have easy 100 pcs order all over the world if you’ll not put to big price on it.

Making money with the hobby you like is the most wonderful thing. Product made with love is the best product :+1:

Well what a coincidence, I was just uploading the images from last night! I’ll post them in 5 minutes.

The problem with selling this at the moment is that the parts alone cost a lot, and on top of that it is a lot of work :frowning: It wouldn’t be affordable at all.
I am however constantly learning ways to improve the design, make it easier to build, cheaper, etc.
So maybe one day I can make a very affordable 10+Mcd flashlight :slight_smile:

BUILD PROCESS - liquid cooling and first test

So I finally got around to installing the liquid cooling and LED to do the first test.
Filling the cooling loop is not very difficult, the self-priming pump makes it really easy to get water flowing, then all that’s required is to put both tubing ends under water and join them, that way no air bubbles get inside.
One problem I have at the moment is that the water pump is getting extremely hot, so I need to find a way to heatsink it to the body, I guess 30ft of tubing adds a lot of restriction!
The flow rate is still very good though, the tiny pump has no problem moving the water since it is not an impeller pump, it uses a diaphragm.


Here you can see the coil in place. It is not attached to the body with thermal compound, but I plan to do that only once the body is finished and anodized.

These are the screws+springs that are used for mounting and focusing the reflector. They actually worked very well in my testing at the end of this post, however the screws are a bit too short so I will have to increase the depth of the countersinks and add some washers to the springs.

Test fitting the reflector.

I only have 3/6 of the batteries in, but the black shockli cells look awesome :slight_smile:

Here is the small pump used for cooling. This is what is currently getting very hot after a few minutes and needs better cooling. How ironic, the pump used for cooling is what needs the most cooling.

The light is jam packed with wires, tubing, and batteries. In the future I need to allow for a bit more extra room in my designs for ease of assembly!

The LED mounted on the cooling block, mounted on the spider. So far 0 leaks :slight_smile:

Screws holding the MCPCB are too thick, and block some of the light, so they will be replaced with some lower profile ones.

I used the 1 amp DMLN Synios LED for this testing.

Test before putting the reflector in.

Mounting the reflector is probably the most difficult part. The copper tubing unfortunately only lets it fit through the front of the light, which means it is not possible to see where the screws and screw holes are to line it up. If there was no liquid cooling it would have been a breeze. Design flaw :frowning:

Despite all these small problems, the light works!

First beamshot! (not focused perfectly because of the screw length I mentioned before)

Great shot! The very slim central core of the beam is visible and looks very laser-like. Your shot directly above minus the beam, looks like it could be a Christmas card. It’s very warm, pleasing and “home’y! Can’t wait to see the beam focused on a clear, dry night.

Haha thanks, it was snowing a lot last night :slight_smile:
Once I get the focusing system fixed I will be able to do lux measurements, from the beam IRL it looks like I’m going to have to go 100+m away to get a good reading in the hotspot!

Wow bro!

Through the snow! Not centered yet? + Pic taken through window glass? :slight_smile:

You nailed this :+1: Can’t believe what i see.

You freaking nailed this

Just can’t believe Enderman… I really did not think you will get that far. This is so much better than your zooka.

I’m with the above comments. :slight_smile:

Love every bit of it. Well done and looking forward to the finish. :+1:

Hmm, maybe an OP reflector and some DC-Fix would smooth out those rings. :laughing:

Won’t see em at a mile or so! :smiley:

The huge light collection makes the 200 lumens look like a lot more than it really is!

Thank you!
:smiley:


Yup, at about 100m you can’t see any rings, just a nice roundish spot.
I was worried that non-perfect reflection would be an issue but that only seems to be the case for very close range, in the tens of meters.
When looking at the reflector you can’t actually see any lines, it looks like a perfectly smooth mirror, so I guess this is what happens when you have such a small LED with such a big reflector, all the microscopic details get amplified.
The overall shape is a perfect parabola though so this most likely won’t affect the final performance numbers, thanks to the non-infinitely-small LED area.

This is an awesome project. Well done Enderman :nerd_face:

Very nice! :+1:
Maybe we should let köf3 know about this. He found and tested this LED.

The rings in the beam at close range are normal. I have the same effect with my large light.

Congratulations on beating it!

Thanks guys :slight_smile:


Instead of making the countersinks deeper for the focusing screws I decided to just flatten a second 20mm noctigon and use it as a shim between the LED MCPCB and the waterblock.
This will increase the height from 1.65 to ~3.3mm, much easier than making the countersinks deeper and adding washers to the short springs.
Also, in the future if I ever do put a CFT90 in it, that LED has a 3.38mm thick MCPCB so the focus distance will be perfect.

I have not noticed any significant decrease in performance by adding the second copper MCPCB, probably due to the liquid metal and large area not being a bottleneck.
Tonight I will be doing some tests with the oslon black flat installed at 6 amps, we will see how much the output drops over time and maybe some beamshots :slight_smile:
No time for lux measurements yet, need to find a good 150m long straight stretch.

That sounds like a lot cleaner solution to the short screw/focus issue. How nice that the CST-90 will end up at just the right place. looking forward to more shots.

Great stuff, Enderman :+1: :+1: :+1: :+1: :+1:

With the pump overheating, why don’t you use shorter tubing? For such a small and low power emitter it is an overkill. Lowering its resistance would relieve the stress on the poor pump. Or fabbing a metal mount that would act as a heatsink /passive cooling. You have lots of metal that could disperse the heat. Another possible solution could be using the same tubing wrapped around the motor to cool down the pump as well. Just my thoughts.

BTW this project is awesome!!!

:smiley:


Thank you! More beam shots hopefully coming tonight!


Thanks!
You’re right, in fact for the synios LEDs I could probably get away with using just two heatpipes or simply attaching the LED directly to the aluminum spider without any additional cooling.
However, I do want to have the flexibility of using a black flat or possibly the CFT90 in the future, and those 100% need the overkill cooling in order to not overheat.
I’m afraid to kink the tubing by wrapping it so tightly around the motor, there are special motor cooling coils for RC boats I could use if I wanted but the easiest solution is to just heatsink the pump to the aluminum body using a half-circle cut into an aluminum block, which I just machined today :slight_smile:

Lightbringer actually suggested I put multiple tubing runs in parallel for reduced flow restriction with the same amount of cooling, maybe in a future prototype I can do that.
For now I need to keep things simple, there is almost no room left inside :confused:
Since the pump still has a high flow rate even with all the tubing, I think I will be fine simply adding a thermal path from the pump to the body.