What did you mod today?

Nothing fancy, but today I completed my first mods.

I put Texas Avenger Bistro OTSM drivers into a Convoy L2 (XM-L2 T6 4C) and a silver Convoy C8 (XP-L HI U6 4B), plus Convoy lighted tail switches with spring bypasses.

I used 18 AWG wire for everything and it was a pain to work with. I’m wondering whether it’s overkill.

It wasn’t all good. I put a BLF X5/X6 driver in my Convoy M2 and I think I fried the emitter, and I overheated the switch in my BLF A6 when I fixed its broken leg so its a bit sensitive.

Replacement parts have been ordered and I’m looking forward to my next mod!

You are well underway modding skinny_tie, leaving a tailing of fried parts :smiley:

Changed batteries in an 9 Year old Batterypack. Its an Ferm Premium Power 18V Batterie with 2P5S 18650.
I used Samsung 30q. It doubled the Capacity. Old Cells had former 1500mAh, I measured around 1000mAh with a High Resistance between 200 and 300 Ohms.

Edit: Thats my Post #500! :partying_face:

Nice work Wieselflink, happen to have any pictures?

Yes!

Old Batteries with 1500mAh each:

New with Samsung 30Q:

Not jet changed, another old battery-back with Sony 18650VT and 1100mAh each:

More Pictures: http://www.taschenlampen-forum.de/media/albums/akkupack-ferm-premium-power-18v-cda1051-fpb-1800l.2157/

Thank Wieselflink! Very nice to see, might have to do the same sometime for my cordless drill!

I got the battery-connections off with only little damage. Than pre-tinned the batteries and after cooling the batteries I soldered the connections to the new batteries.


Did my first Syniosbuild today. I build one in a small 14500 zoomie and unfortunately it underperformed. In this same zoomie I got a dedomed XP-G2 S3 3D perform up to 54kcd, so I hoped for at least 80kcd with the Synios led. Instead it was just 48kcd, and an uglier hotspot. Of course I can think of a few reasons for the underperformance, of which the heat barrier from ledboard to pill is the main one, keeping the ledboard temperature too high (the board was glued onto the edge of the hollow pill with Arctic Alumina Adhesive, making it electrically insulated from the pill). But I had to re-heat the board an extra time for creating a solder connection between ledboard-core and minus-pad (could have thought of that while reflowing the led :frowning: ), that extra cycle at 210 degC on the heatblock could have affected the led performance as well.

Oh well, I made pictures so I may as well report the mod:

-flattended a 16mm Noctigon well on the underside and slightly sanded the side as well to avoid anything sticking out that could short the board to the pill when later glued in.
-reflowed the Synios led on the Noctigon
-scratched an opening to the core of the board next to the minuspad and reheated the board once more to create a connection from core to minuspad with a tiny bit of wire.
-build up a simple 6x7135 MCU-less driver by stacking chips.
-soldered two pieces of copper wires around the edge of the driver board to create a press-fit connection between driver and pill.
-soldered two tiny ledwires to the ledboard and glued the ledboard into the hollow pill while my led-tester (at 10mA) was connected to led+ and pill. This way an unwanted short from ledboard to pill makes the led light up, so I could re-position the board while the glue was not hardened still.
-made a spring bypass at the driver side.
-assembled the light and tested the current. It was a nice 2A precise (should be 2.1A but those 7135 chips are not that precise).
-tested throw at 7 meter with the Mobilux luxmeter: 48kcd :frowning:

(for fun: stereo!)


Very nice, I especially like the last picture comparing the two LEDs.

The problem might actually be the precision of the aspheric lens. The led could be too small for it. A pre-collimator could help.

A good thing to mention might be that you are using the 0.5mm^2 Synios, there is also a smaller one.

Synios looks brighter so I really don’t get that 63 kcd readings. Yes of course I believe you Djozz :+1:

Lenses have ultra clear projection. I don’t like size of it but it looks very nice and unusual. Well done Djozz :beer:

Good experimentation :+1:

gchart, little late reaction but I was thinking about that too, since I don’t have a 3D printer I didn’t do anything with the idea till yesterday.
I needed a 3D print for my soldering microscope and I had to make a 3D drawing for it and found a shop in my area who could print for me, meanwhile I also make 3D model for the button, shop didn’t have clear filament so asked him to print in any color to test.

I don’t know if this is category mods, but here it goes.

EDIT added the file to: Convoy S2+ metal button replacement for lighted tail cap. by Sp4wN - Thingiverse

I picked up today and print was not really successful the thin part where the gasket comes was a mess, it is a small object after all.

I did trim the print and it works in my S2+

The guy who printed for me asked if I could add some pillars to it so it makes the print sturdy while printing, thus I added some side supports for inner side, if it is printed I will cut those supports.
Since it is only 12 minutes print, he will wait till he has something else to print and print this afterwards.
Here is the new model:

If it goes like this, I might buy a 3D printer….

He should have used “add supports” in slicer to make it print right.

Can you share with me both files so I can print and test it?

Sure XXX-Man, I don’t want to upload it somewhere since it is not fully tested, but I will PM you right now so we can exchange email addresses.

You have PM :slight_smile:

I will print it as soon as I get files :slight_smile:

You have got mail with files :wink:

Here it is :slight_smile:

It fits good and on first try.
There is some work to remove supports but it’s not hard.

Settings I used:
Resolution: 0.1
Initial layer: 0.2
Infil: 20% (you should use more IMHO)
Supports: yes
Print time: about 5 minutes

You should post it on thingverse :slight_smile:




Sorry for some weird color on pictures, my phone doesn’t like white LED strips :slight_smile:

That is fast XXX-Man! Good work guys, that looks marvelous!

Nice, thanks for testing :slight_smile: did you print v2 with supports?
I will post on thingverse for sure, I will wait till I get mine transparent printed, so I can add some photo’s.

Meanwhile if anyone with 3D printer want the file let me know please.

Thanks djozz :slight_smile: now I am almost sure to get a 3D printer in month or 2…

I would suggest printing in transparent colored filament.
Normal transparent looks kind of white when printed and doesn’t match my sand S2+