Did my first Syniosbuild today. I build one in a small 14500 zoomie and unfortunately it underperformed. In this same zoomie I got a dedomed XP-G2 S3 3D perform up to 54kcd, so I hoped for at least 80kcd with the Synios led. Instead it was just 48kcd, and an uglier hotspot. Of course I can think of a few reasons for the underperformance, of which the heat barrier from ledboard to pill is the main one, keeping the ledboard temperature too high (the board was glued onto the edge of the hollow pill with Arctic Alumina Adhesive, making it electrically insulated from the pill). But I had to re-heat the board an extra time for creating a solder connection between ledboard-core and minus-pad (could have thought of that while reflowing the led ), that extra cycle at 210 degC on the heatblock could have affected the led performance as well.
Oh well, I made pictures so I may as well report the mod:
-flattended a 16mm Noctigon well on the underside and slightly sanded the side as well to avoid anything sticking out that could short the board to the pill when later glued in.
-reflowed the Synios led on the Noctigon
-scratched an opening to the core of the board next to the minuspad and reheated the board once more to create a connection from core to minuspad with a tiny bit of wire.
-build up a simple 6x7135 MCU-less driver by stacking chips.
-soldered two pieces of copper wires around the edge of the driver board to create a press-fit connection between driver and pill.
-soldered two tiny ledwires to the ledboard and glued the ledboard into the hollow pill while my led-tester (at 10mA) was connected to led+ and pill. This way an unwanted short from ledboard to pill makes the led light up, so I could re-position the board while the glue was not hardened still.
-made a spring bypass at the driver side.
-assembled the light and tested the current. It was a nice 2A precise (should be 2.1A but those 7135 chips are not that precise).
-tested throw at 7 meter with the Mobilux luxmeter: 48kcd
gchart, little late reaction but I was thinking about that too, since I don’t have a 3D printer I didn’t do anything with the idea till yesterday.
I needed a 3D print for my soldering microscope and I had to make a 3D drawing for it and found a shop in my area who could print for me, meanwhile I also make 3D model for the button, shop didn’t have clear filament so asked him to print in any color to test.
I don’t know if this is category mods, but here it goes.
I picked up today and print was not really successful the thin part where the gasket comes was a mess, it is a small object after all.
I did trim the print and it works in my S2+
The guy who printed for me asked if I could add some pillars to it so it makes the print sturdy while printing, thus I added some side supports for inner side, if it is printed I will cut those supports.
Since it is only 12 minutes print, he will wait till he has something else to print and print this afterwards.
Here is the new model:
Nice, thanks for testing did you print v2 with supports?
I will post on thingverse for sure, I will wait till I get mine transparent printed, so I can add some photo’s.
Meanwhile if anyone with 3D printer want the file let me know please.
Thanks djozz now I am almost sure to get a 3D printer in month or 2…
To make me feel better after a disappointing mod this morning, I refurbished an old abandoned 16340 EDC. It looks pretty worn but what is appealing is how small it is, virtually the same size as a EagleTac D25C.
It had a dedomed 219B 4000K and a 8x7135 AK-101 driver so it was nice already.
I changed the led for a 219B V1 4000K R9080, the driver for a BLF-A6 driver (added a 750 Ohm bleeder resistor), and I added a lighted tail with blue and red leds and a light blue cover. I had to decrease the diameter of both the switchboard and lighted ring to make it fit.
It does 500 lumen at startup, 400 at 30 seconds, so it has considerable heatsag. The 40 seconds fixed stepdown of the BLF-A6 driver is about appropriate. The tint and beam: :heart_eyes: of course.
It really looks beautiful with this worn ano and blue blue switch. It reminds me on my beloved 602c triple 219a. It was my favourite light to this date!
I would love to get one of this host for a new build but can’t find one anywhere. Especially blank like yours.
I know the feeling of failure/dissatisfaction/disappointment of mod or build. It really hurts :cry:
), that extra cycle at 210 degC on the heatblock could have affected the led performance as well.
(for fun: stereo!)
