Wow. Thats all i can say. I run 100% high mode for 3 minutes using shockli IMR. I dint notice any stepdown. I thought this light is going to get hot when i try to turn off the switch at 3:02. The body of the light is warm. I know i can run the highest mode little longer, but i dont want to ruin the led and driver… amazing light with the great heatsinking… i might try to do another 3 minutes run tomorrow using the oem thrunite 26650.
Your welcome, It’s nice to know someone agrees on the knurling, (and the xeno!) :+1: :+1:
Yeah wimpy knurling on so many lights - that always kills me, some so faint it makes me wonder why they even bothered - even worse ones with no knurling. Similar to you probably, because I’m an ex mechanic and “tool” guy. I guess some complain it’s not “pocket friendly”, I say horsefeathers!
I’m sure someone will.
I don’t see the problem with a mention of it here though. Completely relevant since it’s the first real competitor size-wise. Acebeam and other lights have been mentioned plenty of times in this thread already, making discussion here helpful for pre-purchase decision making.
I didn’t mean to derail with my one-post comparison (probably seemed like a big post because I included a chart!) but don’t worry I wont be delving into an extensive discussion on the Lumintop here. 
This thread plus a number of rave reviews on YouTube persuaded me. NW TC20 ordered.
You can’t go wrong with either nw or Cw. XHP70.2 and XHP70 have different tint in the low mode.
Alright, I waited long enough. I just ordered the CW version. This will be my first 26650 light.
I absolutely love the toothy knurling on Thrunite lights. It’s (hands down) the best!! :+1:
Nice… you will like it. I have a CW version. its a good light, not too big… user interface is awesome…
I’ve been hanging around this thread since almost day one, and almost pre-ordered many times. Then decided to wait.
I think I’ll like this little powerhouse too. Thrunite =QUALITY.
Because of you’re affirmation on great knurling relating to “all” Thrunite lights it just occurred to me that their Wowtac line may share the same awesome knurling, I don’t own a Wowtac (yet) but it sure looks that way:
I noticed Thrunite had a less expensive line-up. I’d like some quality comparisons of both.
Thrunite pricing is good… even if they broke, they can repair easily… one of my modded thrunite was dead, and it was only the spring… can easily replaced… thrunite also use the best led bin.
I think I am going to order this TC20 today, I know robo819 and he is impressed with it so that gives it a green light… been looking at it since it was first announced and the discount emailed to me from Thrunite makes it more appealing. Not sure about the use of a orange peel reflector with the XHP-70.2, should have been a smooth reflector. I’ll either polish the reflector or use an MT-G2 emitter in mine. Will figure that out after I get a hands on with it. (mayhap a bit of a power bump as well, again, we’ll see)
Thanks for all the input on tints, I know it’s always a matter of perspective and one guy that “loves it!” may just love campfire orange while the next guy might have a thing for pulsar blue, so it’s always objective.
The odd hues in the beam profile from the 70.2 come from the new style from Cree, same as with the XP-G3 and XP-L2… the substrate is completely covered with the phosphor instead of just the die itself. I’ve had nice results from slicing the dome off then dicing the extra phosphor off the substrate. This is flip chip technology so there are no bond wires, the connections are under the die instead. So I may end up slicing and dicing the 70.2 emitter and polishing the heavy orange peel reflector to gain a hot spot and better throw. All depends on my impression of the lights performance in the end.
I am very much a fan of the MT-G2 so the orange peel reflector may play well with that emitter, will probably do some swapping out first before doing any texture removal.
Really a fan of Thrunite’s knurling, wish more lights had this more aggresive style…
(quote shortened)
I really love the TC20, I got the NW and I don’t notice the odd hues when using it outdoors, only see it on white walls, but I do wish it had more throw. I think it’s definitely lacking in that department.
For the MT-G2 swap… I don’t know if Thrunite is using a 6v or a 12v emitter, (I assume 6v) but if the stock driver were used and it’s 6v wouldn’t it burn up the MT-G2 emitter from too high current? (I’m assuming it’s pushing around 4A+) Or if the TC20’s current was more in line with Cree specs there would be a substantial loss of output? (about half?)
XHP70.2: 4292 lm @ 4.8A (6V) or 2.4 A (12V)
MT-G2: 1987.5 lm @ 3A
(specs. from cree)
Does that sound correct? Of course I know you’ll be changing or modding the driver if you do it, just thinking out loud about MT-G2 with stock driver.
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:+1: :+1:
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:+1: 
Just to see what it would do to the beam I sliced and diced the stock cool white emitter. By that I mean I sliced off the dome as close as I dared to the phosphor and then I diced the edges of the phosphor around the die itself and cleaned that off.
It made a pretty good improvement in both the throw and the tint of the beam , with much less of the dark or olive around the main beam itself.
Edit: There was a loss of about 290 lumens by slicing and dicing the emitter , but worth it IMO to get the better tint and slightly tighter hotspot.
Here is a picture of the sliced and diced emitter and some beamshots with the newly sliced emitter also.
These shots at WHITE garage door from 20 feet away………
Low
Medium
High
Turbo
These 2 shots at Gate 100 yards………….
High
Turbo
I may go get some peel washers and have a go at it too :+1:
The XHP-70.2 is a 6V emitter. It has 4 dies wired 2S2P and is typically set up on a 6V board but there are 12V boards that run 4S to the 4 dies. It would be prudent, of course, to check voltage at the emitter to ensure it is indeed set up as a 6V system, which I’m sure it is because robo measured 4.9A at the emitter which would be quite high if it was 12V.
The MT-G2 is a 6V emitter and like the XHP-70/70.2 it can be overdriven substantially over the Cree datasheet specs. Substantially! I’ve run the fat MT-G2 at over 16A, the 70.2 at well over 18A. Am quite certain the Thrunite isn’t approaching anywhere near these overdriven levels.
The larger MT-G2 would indeed lose lumens at the same current draw as the original 70.2, I would be willing to lose lumens for the tint of the larger emitter. Not worried about this one being for throw, have plenty of other lights that fill that niche… 
Edit: Nice job by the way robo! Very clean slice and dice!
Thanks for the info, that’s awesome and good to know the MTG can handle such high current, I want to use it in a couple of lights at some point. I’ve got the EagleTac MX25L3 with MT-G2 P0 EasyWhite (5000K) It has a real nice beam.
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So I take it the MTG’s output doesn’t increase if driven at over the 3A datasheet spec? (I guess that’s what is meant by “Max Light Output”)
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The one I’m looking at for the lights is MT-G2 Q0 (5000K) it seems to be the one that’s available everywhere, not sure the difference of P0 vs Q0 but I think P0 is only CRI 70, maybe Q0 is CRI 80-90?
There’s no mention of Q0 that I can see on any of the Cree MT-G2 data sheets, this was also mentioned on a thread here back in 2014.
beam0 ,
The Cree data sheet is showing what they rate the emitters output at the given amperage and is the Cree recommended maximum.
As with any of the emitters that we over drive , From the MT G2 down to the smaller emitters , they all will gain output as the current increases , up to the point that you over drive them too much and then they simply will over heat and burn out.
A good example would be the XP-L HI which has become a favorite for modders. Cree list the max current at 3 amps with a maximum light output of 1095 lumens.
The XP-L HI is overdriven easily up to 7 amps and beyond and when it is driven at 6.5 to 7 amps the output (depending on light , reflector size etc.) will also increase from the listed 1095 lumens to easily 1450 to 1600 lumens. I have modded a good many lights myself with these emitters and see numbers consistently go over the 1500 lumen mark when driven double or more the listed amperage.
There is of course a point when you will get all the lumens you can and then more current , if the emitter handles it, will simply cause even more heat than what is already caused by over driving the emitter , with no more lumen gain.
Of course you will have a lot more heat to go along with the increased current and I am pretty sure a shorter life span of the emitter , although I am not too sure of how much shorter life span , as I have yet to have a properly over driven emitter burn out , with some of them 2 and 3 years old.