The FW3A a TLF BLF special elegant triple powerful flashlight

4873 posts / 0 new
Last post
spaceminions
Offline
Last seen: 8 hours 3 min ago
Joined: 07/20/2015 - 14:18
Posts: 107
Location: Texas, USA

I think that we don’t need this to be a ridiculous pocket blaster; the d4 has that covered, and with its larger thermal mass and being a quad vs a triple, there’s just no chance for competition. But this one could, given that it will have nicer firmware in a few ways, be a more elegant option that may heat up incredibly fast on turbo, but regulate its temperature better than the first generations of such things so that it’s still pretty smooth in terms of stepping down and crucially up. That’s why I’d kind of like a r9050 219c in this one (maybe 4000k), with the xpl hi 3d also being a reasonable option apart from the price increase.

Card Carrying CRI baby https://b.thumbs.redditmedia.com/laMC7BGhREfYTRQjYe2I5FMjTF1IjrmM6bPLK9SKEXU.png

 

Firelight2
Firelight2's picture
Offline
Last seen: 7 hours 57 min ago
Joined: 04/08/2011 - 15:17
Posts: 2716
Location: California

I’m not a fan of the 219C. I have a D4 with that and don’t like it. Produces just as much heat as XPL HI, while producing far less light.

jmike
Offline
Last seen: 4 days 12 hours ago
Joined: 11/23/2016 - 13:03
Posts: 5
Location: Austin, TX

My first group buy purchase, so hope I’m following protocol here…

1 please!

jmike
Offline
Last seen: 4 days 12 hours ago
Joined: 11/23/2016 - 13:03
Posts: 5
Location: Austin, TX

My first group buy purchase, so hope I’m following protocol here…

1 please!

Tixx
Offline
Last seen: 3 days 17 hours ago
Joined: 08/27/2015 - 22:34
Posts: 163
Location: United States
Firelight2 wrote:
I’m not a fan of the 219C. I have a D4 with that and don’t like it. Produces just as much heat as XPL HI, while producing far less light.

Yeah, definitely no point in using the 219c. Just the heat to light ratio should disqualify it for this light application.

spaceminions
Offline
Last seen: 8 hours 3 min ago
Joined: 07/20/2015 - 14:18
Posts: 107
Location: Texas, USA

Well, that’s the price of CRI and a tint that doesn’t change to purple near the edges. I don’t like the tint of the 219c’s in my d4 as much as I do the middle of the spot from 3d xpl’s; the 5000k is actually a bit over that cct instead of under; but it’s nice enough otherwise and plenty bright. I’ve got the q8 with the 3d xpl’s and vtc6’s and I like them well enough, but I only run a sanyo ga in my d4. I can see it will be hard to pick one option…

Card Carrying CRI baby https://b.thumbs.redditmedia.com/laMC7BGhREfYTRQjYe2I5FMjTF1IjrmM6bPLK9SKEXU.png

 

niktak11
Offline
Last seen: 11 hours 10 min ago
Joined: 11/26/2016 - 04:51
Posts: 73
Location: United States

ToyKeeper wrote:
If I understand correctly, if the FW3A sells well, it’ll probably be the first in a series. FW3A for aluminum, FW3B for brass, FW3C for copper, FW3T for titanium. It shouldn’t be a once-only limited-time thing unless something goes wrong.

However, like most of these projects, the price may be higher for the general public after the group buy is done.

I have a lot of lights… and the FW3A is what I’ve been using the most lately. It’s not the prettiest light in my collection, but it does seem unusually practical. It’s one of the smallest 18650 lights, one of the most versatile, it’s mod-friendly, and it has a good clip and good ergonomics. So I hope it’ll stick around.


We need a silver version too!

Also put my vote down for a nichia emitter

spaceminions
Offline
Last seen: 8 hours 3 min ago
Joined: 07/20/2015 - 14:18
Posts: 107
Location: Texas, USA

Hmm… 50 grams was the weight I heard for this one; that amount of silver is about $30… interesting.

Card Carrying CRI baby https://b.thumbs.redditmedia.com/laMC7BGhREfYTRQjYe2I5FMjTF1IjrmM6bPLK9SKEXU.png

 

nvanlaar
nvanlaar's picture
Offline
Last seen: 9 hours 50 min ago
Joined: 08/30/2017 - 16:57
Posts: 207
Location: CA, USA
JasonWW wrote:
nvanlaar wrote:
My vote is for A D, but I’m Ok with C. People (muggles) already complain about the flickers in the GT and Q8. We don’t need extra indicators to really confuse the muggles…
What flickers? The blink at each end of the ramp? I maybe could understand a muggle asking what it is, but not complaining about it. I’ve heard zero complaints personally.

There is also a blink in the middle at highest regulation level (I think). So, yes, people that don’t know what it is think they have a malfunctioning light. I have seen a few complaints on FB groups.

No, this isn’t designed for muggles, but it might be given to them and/or eventually sold to the general public at which point Lumintop might get a flood of complaints for an actual feature thinking the light is a POS. I would hate to sour Lumintop’s experience with BLF. (Sure, they could turn that off for the public version, but would they?)

My 2¢

I stick by my A, D, and non-committal C vote. Wink
I think this will be a great pocket edc. and am looking forward to the completed product.

“Facts don’t care about your feelings.”
~Ben Shapiro

Firelight2
Firelight2's picture
Offline
Last seen: 7 hours 57 min ago
Joined: 04/08/2011 - 15:17
Posts: 2716
Location: California
nvanlaar wrote:
JasonWW wrote:
nvanlaar wrote:
My vote is for A D, but I’m Ok with C. People (muggles) already complain about the flickers in the GT and Q8. We don’t need extra indicators to really confuse the muggles…
What flickers? The blink at each end of the ramp? I maybe could understand a muggle asking what it is, but not complaining about it. I’ve heard zero complaints personally.

There is also a blink in the middle at highest regulation level (I think). So, yes, people that don’t know what it is think they have a malfunctioning light. I have seen a few complaints on FB groups.

No, this isn’t designed for muggles, but it might be given to them and/or eventually sold to the general public at which point Lumintop might get a flood of complaints for an actual feature thinking the light is a POS. I would hate to sour Lumintop’s experience with BLF. (Sure, they could turn that off for the public version, but would they?)

My 2¢

I stick by my A, D, and non-committal C vote. Wink
I think this will be a great pocket edc. and am looking forward to the completed product.

How about making the blinks at 1×7135 and 8×7135 configurable? Maybe the default is no blinks. But have a hidden configuration option that would let the end-user turn on the blinks if desired.

That way you get the best of both worlds: Smooth interface for muggles, with the option to go to a more detailed interface for flashaholics.

JasonWW
JasonWW's picture
Online
Last seen: 12 min 58 sec ago
Joined: 10/22/2016 - 11:41
Posts: 8289
Location: Houston Texas
nvanlaar wrote:
JasonWW wrote:
nvanlaar wrote:
My vote is for A D, but I’m Ok with C. People (muggles) already complain about the flickers in the GT and Q8. We don’t need extra indicators to really confuse the muggles…
What flickers? The blink at each end of the ramp? I maybe could understand a muggle asking what it is, but not complaining about it. I’ve heard zero complaints personally.

There is also a blink in the middle at highest regulation level (I think). So, yes, people that don’t know what it is think they have a malfunctioning light. I have seen a few complaints on FB groups.


The Q8 and GT only have the faint blinks at the top and bottom.

My Convoy L6 thread with XHP70.2, Texas Avenger FET driver, Narsil v1.2 ramping firmware (old), lighted side switch and cut down SMO reflector. Lots of amp draws on stock driver as well. 

My Supfire L5-S thread with XHP70.2, 26350 cells (4,100 lumen!), Texas Avenger FET driver, NarsilM v1.0 ramping firmware and lighted side switch. My mini L6! 

9 NarsilM user videos for BLF Q8, GT, GT Mini and ROT66

Texas_Ace BLF Calibrated Lumen tube

Maukka Calibration Lights for DIY Lumen Measuring Devices 

Review Jaxmnve M1 Stainless 10180 Keychain light

renhoek
Offline
Last seen: 2 months 2 weeks ago
Joined: 02/24/2018 - 00:20
Posts: 2
Location: United States

Hi guys – please add me to the list for one. Thx!

Mattfox27
Offline
Last seen: 3 weeks 2 days ago
Joined: 09/10/2017 - 00:05
Posts: 28
Location: United States

please add me to list NW

Persechini
Persechini's picture
Offline
Last seen: 7 hours 1 min ago
Joined: 07/11/2017 - 03:32
Posts: 503
Location: Brasil

I first got a few flashlights with xm-l2, xp-g2 and xp-l, and after I got my first 219C emitters I’m baffled at how someone wouldn’t like the tint and quality of the beam. I understand one not wanting to trade output for CRI, but not liking it? Preposterous! Big Smile

In my Tree

My collectionEmisar: D4 / D1 / D4 (broken) ― Convoy: C8 Clear / S2+ Clear / S2+ / S2+ UV / S6 ― Nitecore: Tube / Thumb / Concept 1 / HC30 / HC33 / TIP / TIP CRI / TINI ― Lumintop: Tool AAA / Tool AA / HLAAA / EDC05 ― Sofirn: SF10 / SF12 / SF12 / SF14 / SF14 / SF14 / SP10A / SP10A (gifted) ― Jaxman: E3 ― UTorch: UT01 ― Trustfire: Z2 ― Skyfire: SF-065 (trashed)

dbmeed
Offline
Last seen: 1 month 2 weeks ago
Joined: 01/27/2018 - 21:12
Posts: 5
Location: Canada

Just out of curiosity, how difficult would it be to make it ramp down smoothly rather than distinct step downs when it starts to get too hot? Just a random thought that occurred to me, but I thought it might be one of those subtle differences that bumps up the impression of a high quality piece. I know its something that I would like to see on my D4 at least.

This may have been suggested or mentioned before; apologies if it has, Ive not yet had a chance to read through all the posts.

spaceminions
Offline
Last seen: 8 hours 3 min ago
Joined: 07/20/2015 - 14:18
Posts: 107
Location: Texas, USA

The modern firmware revisions that would be used in this light have seen some work, and will not only ramp down smoother (maybe not perfect; I don’t remember how it’d been going), but also ramp back up just as well if you cool it off by for instance going outside into colder air, or by putting water on it. Though this light won’t have much metal to absorb the heat, so it will not last very long before it has to step down, it should be much better at managing heat and brightness.

Card Carrying CRI baby https://b.thumbs.redditmedia.com/laMC7BGhREfYTRQjYe2I5FMjTF1IjrmM6bPLK9SKEXU.png

 

BT100
Offline
Last seen: 1 week 5 days ago
Joined: 03/26/2017 - 13:23
Posts: 60
Location: AZ USA

I am interested in 2 please..

SKV89
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 46 min ago
Joined: 12/10/2017 - 12:46
Posts: 1472
Location: US

I own a bunch of 4000k to 5000k 219c and 219b flashlights. Although they have the highest CRI, their tint is nowhere near as beautiful as the perfect XP-L HI 4000k 5D tint, which contains no yellow/green at all. Just a beautiful neutral with a slight hint of rosiness.

But I think XPG3 R5/R6 bin would be more efficient because the XP-L HI 5D tint only goes up to V2 bin. So the XPG3 would still be the ideal emitter for this light.

Henk4U2
Henk4U2's picture
Offline
Last seen: 47 min 16 sec ago
Joined: 02/13/2014 - 17:52
Posts: 2162
Location: The heart of the Netherlands (GMT+1)
spaceminions wrote:
Hmm… 50 grams was the weight I heard for this one; that amount of silver is about $30… interesting.

The specific weight of silver is about 4 times the specific weight of aluminum. So, if you want your silver light to be as big as your aluminum light, you need 200 grams of it. Well, make that 150-160 gram. Because the reflector, lens, led-board, driver and switch are the same.

I always think long and hard before I say something really stupid.

JasonWW
JasonWW's picture
Online
Last seen: 12 min 58 sec ago
Joined: 10/22/2016 - 11:41
Posts: 8289
Location: Houston Texas

spaceminions wrote:
The modern firmware revisions that would be used in this light have seen some work, and will not only ramp down smoother (maybe not perfect; I don’t remember how it’d been going), but also ramp back up just as well if you cool it off by for instance going outside into colder air, or by putting water on it.

Hold on, I don’t remember the driver circuitry being that advanced. Maybe ToyKeeper can clarify.

My Convoy L6 thread with XHP70.2, Texas Avenger FET driver, Narsil v1.2 ramping firmware (old), lighted side switch and cut down SMO reflector. Lots of amp draws on stock driver as well. 

My Supfire L5-S thread with XHP70.2, 26350 cells (4,100 lumen!), Texas Avenger FET driver, NarsilM v1.0 ramping firmware and lighted side switch. My mini L6! 

9 NarsilM user videos for BLF Q8, GT, GT Mini and ROT66

Texas_Ace BLF Calibrated Lumen tube

Maukka Calibration Lights for DIY Lumen Measuring Devices 

Review Jaxmnve M1 Stainless 10180 Keychain light

spaceminions
Offline
Last seen: 8 hours 3 min ago
Joined: 07/20/2015 - 14:18
Posts: 107
Location: Texas, USA
Henk4U2 wrote:
spaceminions wrote:
Hmm… 50 grams was the weight I heard for this one; that amount of silver is about $30… interesting.

The specific weight of silver is about 4 times the specific weight of aluminum. So, if you want your silver light to be as big as your aluminum light, you need 200 grams of it. Well, make that 150-160 gram. Because the reflector, lens, led-board, driver and switch are the same.

Derp; I absolutely was way too distracted when I said that. Density matters, who’da thunk it. Thanks for the reminder.

Card Carrying CRI baby https://b.thumbs.redditmedia.com/laMC7BGhREfYTRQjYe2I5FMjTF1IjrmM6bPLK9SKEXU.png

 

spaceminions
Offline
Last seen: 8 hours 3 min ago
Joined: 07/20/2015 - 14:18
Posts: 107
Location: Texas, USA

JasonWW wrote:
spaceminions wrote:
The modern firmware revisions that would be used in this light have seen some work, and will not only ramp down smoother (maybe not perfect; I don't remember how it'd been going), *but also ramp back up* just as well if you cool it off by for instance going outside into colder air, or by putting water on it.
Hold on, I don't remember the driver circuitry being that advanced. Maybe ToyKeeper can clarify.
I'm sure she could elaborate, but the plan is it's going to be a PID like job, which is a big step up from current lights. There's a bunch of code you can read over if you want to dig around in here. I think it was closer to PD than PID when I last checked, but as to whether the code will step back up after a step down if the light cools off, it's definitely going to be capable of that.

Card Carrying CRI baby https://b.thumbs.redditmedia.com/laMC7BGhREfYTRQjYe2I5FMjTF1IjrmM6bPLK9SKEXU.png

 

pepinfaxera
Offline
Last seen: 51 min 50 sec ago
Joined: 06/25/2015 - 12:53
Posts: 225
Location: Gijón - Spain - Europe

BT100 wrote:
I am interested in 2 please..

See Post Interest list updated by pepinfaxera
Your name is on the list updated by pepinfaxera: nº # 1008
BT100 wrote:
interested in 2 …

Your name is on the list updated by pepinfaxera: nº # 1008 and # 1061

Sorry for my bad English
(google translator)

joechina
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 37 min ago
Joined: 03/05/2016 - 08:23
Posts: 1123
Location: Germany
JasonWW wrote:
spaceminions wrote:
… just as well if you cool it off by for instance going outside into colder air, or by putting water on it.
Hold on, I don’t remember the driver circuitry being that advanced. Maybe ToyKeeper can clarify.

It is not the driver it’s in the software.
If throttled for thermal reasons and you put ice on a D4 it gets brighter. Same as FW3A.
If you flash Andúril on the Q8 it should also work. But you need to get the regulation right for every type of lamp.

joechina
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 37 min ago
Joined: 03/05/2016 - 08:23
Posts: 1123
Location: Germany
dbmeed wrote:
Just out of curiosity, how difficult would it be to make it ramp down smoothly rather than distinct step downs when it starts to get too hot?

It seems it’s already done
http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1267460#comment-1267460

Quote:
Fixed a bug in thermal regulation and LVP, which were both running about 1000X faster than intended. So, those work again. Thermal regulation uses 512 internal steps while searching for a sustainable level, which makes the adjustments invisible by eye. A lux meter is needed to see what it’s doing.
dbmeed
Offline
Last seen: 1 month 2 weeks ago
Joined: 01/27/2018 - 21:12
Posts: 5
Location: Canada
joechina wrote:
dbmeed wrote:
Just out of curiosity, how difficult would it be to make it ramp down smoothly rather than distinct step downs when it starts to get too hot?

It seems it’s already done
http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1267460#comment-1267460

Quote:
Fixed a bug in thermal regulation and LVP, which were both running about 1000X faster than intended. So, those work again. Thermal regulation uses 512 internal steps while searching for a sustainable level, which makes the adjustments invisible by eye. A lux meter is needed to see what it’s doing.

Thats exactly what I was hoping for, just havent read that far yet. Thanks!

bucky
Offline
Last seen: 3 days 7 hours ago
Joined: 01/25/2018 - 20:41
Posts: 38
Location: Delaware

Im new this whole thing as well please put me down for one (1)

808Hi
Online
Last seen: 53 sec ago
Joined: 01/21/2018 - 04:30
Posts: 170
Location: Hawaii

I’ll take 4

cjoe7
Offline
Last seen: 7 months 3 weeks ago
Joined: 10/26/2012 - 03:40
Posts: 76
Location: Diamond Bar, CA

I’ll take 4.

Thanks

cjoe

pepinfaxera
Offline
Last seen: 51 min 50 sec ago
Joined: 06/25/2015 - 12:53
Posts: 225
Location: Gijón - Spain - Europe

808Hi wrote:
I’ll take 4

Your name is on the list updated by pepinfaxera: nº # 1036 , # 1041 , # 1042 and 1047, … Total 4 units .
.
.See Post Interest list updated by pepinfaxera
.
regards

Sorry for my bad English
(google translator)

Pages