FW3A, a TLF/BLF EDC flashlight - SST-20 available, coupon codes public

Hi guys - please add me to the list for one. Thx!

please add me to list NW

I first got a few flashlights with xm-l2, xp-g2 and xp-l, and after I got my first 219C emitters I’m baffled at how someone wouldn’t like the tint and quality of the beam. I understand one not wanting to trade output for CRI, but not liking it? Preposterous! :smiley:

Just out of curiosity, how difficult would it be to make it ramp down smoothly rather than distinct step downs when it starts to get too hot? Just a random thought that occurred to me, but I thought it might be one of those subtle differences that bumps up the impression of a high quality piece. I know its something that I would like to see on my D4 at least.

This may have been suggested or mentioned before; apologies if it has, Ive not yet had a chance to read through all the posts.

The modern firmware revisions that would be used in this light have seen some work, and will not only ramp down smoother (maybe not perfect; I don’t remember how it’d been going), but also ramp back up just as well if you cool it off by for instance going outside into colder air, or by putting water on it. Though this light won’t have much metal to absorb the heat, so it will not last very long before it has to step down, it should be much better at managing heat and brightness.

I am interested in 2 please…

I own a bunch of 4000k to 5000k 219c and 219b flashlights. Although they have the highest CRI, their tint is nowhere near as beautiful as the perfect XP-L HI 4000k 5D tint, which contains no yellow/green at all. Just a beautiful neutral with a slight hint of rosiness.

But I think XPG3 R5/R6 bin would be more efficient because the XP-L HI 5D tint only goes up to V2 bin. So the XPG3 would still be the ideal emitter for this light.

The specific weight of silver is about 4 times the specific weight of aluminum. So, if you want your silver light to be as big as your aluminum light, you need 200 grams of it. Well, make that 150-160 gram. Because the reflector, lens, led-board, driver and switch are the same.

Hold on, I don’t remember the driver circuitry being that advanced. Maybe ToyKeeper can clarify.

Derp; I absolutely was way too distracted when I said that. Density matters, who’da thunk it. Thanks for the reminder.

I’m sure she could elaborate, but the plan is it’s going to be a PID like job, which is a big step up from current lights. There’s a bunch of code you can read over if you want to dig around in here. I think it was closer to PD than PID when I last checked, but as to whether the code will step back up after a step down if the light cools off, it’s definitely going to be capable of that.

See Post Interest list updated by pepinfaxera
Your name is on the list updated by pepinfaxera: nº # 1008

Your name is on the list updated by pepinfaxera: nº # 1008 and # 1061

It is not the driver it’s in the software.
If throttled for thermal reasons and you put ice on a D4 it gets brighter. Same as FW3A.
If you flash Andúril on the Q8 it should also work. But you need to get the regulation right for every type of lamp.

It seems it’s already done

Thats exactly what I was hoping for, just havent read that far yet. Thanks!

Im new this whole thing as well please put me down for one (1)

I’ll take 4

I’ll take 4.

Thanks

cjoe

Your name is on the list updated by pepinfaxera: nº # 1036 , # 1041 , # 1042 and 1047, … Total 4 units .
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.See Post Interest list updated by pepinfaxera
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regards

Your name is on the list
Interest The Miller: 736, 737, 738 and 739.
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How many lanterns do you want in total? . . . … 8 units? .