FW3A, a TLF/BLF EDC flashlight - SST-20 available, coupon codes public

I’ll take 4.

Thanks

cjoe

Your name is on the list updated by pepinfaxera: nº # 1036 , # 1041 , # 1042 and 1047, … Total 4 units .
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.See Post Interest list updated by pepinfaxera
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regards

Your name is on the list
Interest The Miller: 736, 737, 738 and 739.
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How many lanterns do you want in total? . . . … 8 units? .

I’ll take 4 lanterns.

Oops, sorry for the double-post, just want the one, please.

Way to make a first (and second, I guess) impression….

—jmike

Put me down for 1 please.

Cheers

The host design isn’t finalized, and really the only pieces which could be easily swapped are the MCPCB and optics. A mod host would be a complete light minus those two parts. The driver is not swappable without making your own layout for this specific host.

The emitter poll hasn’t started. :slight_smile:

That’s already done. Adjustments shouldn’t be visible to humans.

… and that has been working for a long time. :slight_smile:

After it throttles itself down, hold a block of ice against the light and it should ramp up pretty quickly… much faster than a D4, since the D4 had a throttle-up speed limit of “turtle” to prevent oscillations.

I’ve been trying to make it “just work” on a wide variety of hosts, from the tiny hot D4-219c to the large and moderate 500-lumen BLF Lantern. So far it’s working on most, but still doesn’t like the D4-219c on full turbo yet. That light is pretty much the worst case, so once that is working it should be fine everywhere else too.

It’s fine on FW3A XP-G2 at 3A, but I doubt it’ll adjust fast enough on FW3A 219c at full turbo. So it needs more tweaking.

Put me down for 1, please.

I am not sure if I want a poll about the emitters.
I think it would be better if the team members get the second prototype and they swap in the first prototype different LEDs and optics. (XPG2, XPG3, frosted, clear, dif. angles)
Then compare the different lamps side by side. And then the team should choose.

It would be nice if the team shoot for the nicest beam and not for the highest lumen.
(And please no green in it)

Polls deliver normally an average result and we have to judge on pictures and the lamp not in the hand.

Would a silicon heat transfer pad help for the 219C to get the heat quicker to the µC?
Would a turbo with only 2.5A help?

With “turbo” being a FET, it isn’t possible to limit the current to a specific amount. The max-regulated mode should be 3A.

Well yeah, that’s why I said

The point is that the q8 doesn’t, and the d4 does it very weakly, but this one should be somewhat faster than the turning of the seasons and yet smooth. :stuck_out_tongue: It will be ‘cool’ to have that updated behavior. Of course, for cool factor, optical configuration (which should absolutely be called photonic programming or something equally fun) is definitely cool.

I agree. I trust the team with lights in hand will make a better decision than the rest of us looking at beam shots. In addition, I think that a team working hard to make a nice, efficient light is likely to be mindful of tint and not just go for max lumens. :wink:

A lot of us here have built FET triples before. It’s not necessary to have this specific host in hand to have previous experience with the emitters and optics in question. People should keep in mind this will heat up faster than a Convoy host with a big spacer though.

Exactly. The emitters and optics are pretty standard and lots of people have experience with them. The main differences here are:

  • The edges of the optic aren’t covered by the bezel.
  • The host has less mass than most triples.
  • The host’s double-tube design may reduce heat-shedding capacity a little.

So, normal BLF-triple performance and output traits except it needs extra care for thermal behavior.

I don’t personally care much how bright turbo is, because even XP-G2 at ~2250 lm is plenty for my purposes. Really, I could be mostly happy with 1x7135 and only 150 lm. I care more about the beam and tint and heat. Plus, of course, non-performance-related traits like host design and interface.

On mine, I’ve left the ceiling at the maximum regulated level of ~3A, with FET modes only available via turbo. This is the default configuration, but it can be changed with a few clicks.

interested

TK, you rock, but I’d guess almost everyone else does care how bright it is.

I mostly don’t care about the peak output. 3500 lumens for 12 seconds is only a marginally better party trick than 2900 lumens for 11 seconds. I use my lights to see things, and given that, CRI, tint near the blackbody line and tint evenness across the beam are generally above output on my list of priorities.

Heat matters a bit, but I expect the differences to be moderate at max-regulated and only really significant on the FET channel.

I used to care about output more, but as I’ve collected more lights, I haven’t found big output in small lights all that useful. When I pick a pocketable 1x18650 light to bring with me, I don’t find myself thinking “this one has a higher max setting, so I’ll bring it”. If I do expect to be using a lot of light, I bring a larger light that uses multiple 18650s.

Peak doesn’t matter (to me) much like zak said, and since these ramp in brightness, you can exchange heat for brightness or vice versa easily. So I don’t really mind too much if it’s not as bright as it could be; it’s a triple. It’s not going to be as good as the d4, but it will still be very bright. That’s all I really need to know. This is going to be a very nice looking little light with a nice price tag; why make the light more expensive or let it fall down on its apparent quality as soon as you turn it on? You won’t remember the difference in brightness on a light you’re not using at one set level, but you can see the difference in the quality of the beam at every setting.

interested