lol, actually I am 100% a turbo guy. I love me a good ole Blown big block naturally but I really love a nice sleeper turbo setup that you never see coming.
Not to mention that turbos are better, make more power and win more races. Thats why all the outlaw guys have gone turbo in recent years, they are just better.
Cars are a topic I could go on about forever. Built a few in my time, also blown a few. You learn from things that go wrong, not things that go right.
As long as you learn something from a mistake or when something goes wrong, then it was a good thing.
I went on a bit of an XHP35 binge today, I built a 1504 with an XHP35 HI H2 3C 80CRI using 26350’s.
It is using a Texas Avenger driver with FET only and PWM to keep current from going to high. Runs about 2.5A on high.
It is not bad, a bit ringy but I am using a white centering ring at the moment, going to print a black one off and see what that does.
Makes about ~1200 lumens OTF in flood mode, forgot what it was in zoom, think it was around 800? I didn’t really pay attention to the lumens since this was a throw build.
Around 250kcd for 1000M of throw. Outside you don’t really notice the rings. Overall it looks nice but gonna see what it looks like tonight. A bit better throw then the DO1 I built but the DO1 had more spill and a better overall beam IMO.
The other build is a Convoy L2 with the same LED and driver both with 26350 and 26650 although I think I will be using the 26350.
It is making a bit over 2100 lumens OTF @ 2.5A also with PWM to keep the current in check.
Tint is good and beam is as well. The interesting thing is that I have an XP-L HI L2 that is the same tint and build (although I don’t think it is a V2 bin XP-L).
Comparing them side by side inside and the L2 has about twice the hotspot size but otherwise the beam is basically the same. Interestingly the throw is a bit better on the XHP35 light (it was around a 8-10% improvement).
I really like the XHP35, I just wish that it didn’t need 4S cells.
I am right now building ThorFire TA13 zoomies with XHP35 HI C2 30G emitters and H2-C drivers from Kaidomain. These should provide between 1700 - 1800 lumens at 1.5A in such host before full warmup, but the real out the front lumens may be ≈70% that figure or so in flood, doesn't it?
Hey TA, any update on where to purchase the BLF GT emitters? I believe their XHP35A H0 0000 0D0BD440E, I looked at a bunch of different sites, but the minimum order is 1000 and I don’t see myself needing more then 8-9. Do you think Lumintop would be willing to sell a few emitters on the side? I have no problem with paying a slight premium over the normal cost of some XHP35 Hi emitters if Lumintop would be willing to sell some.
I have wanted to do this same thing but have not found a source for them yet. I have been trying to talk Lumintop into selling the LED’s separately but that led us down the rabit hole of trying to find an even better LED.
We did find a 4500k that could be real nice but the samples they sent me were lost in transit and I have not heard anything since. Once things quite down with the GT group buy I will see about the LED’s again.
It seems like some of your highest outputs were between 2600 and 2700 lumen. This is a raw led, correct?
In a flashlight where you have losses in the reflector and lens, what do you think the “Out the Front” output would be?
DB Custom was saying the MF04 output might actually be 2700 lumen out the front. I’m pretty skeptical of that. You would need the raw led to put out at least 3000 lumen and I havent seen any measured that high.
Plus, I doubt the MF04 will be using a top bin led anyway.
The OTF lumens on the XHP35 always seem to be lower then expected and I have no idea why. It just does not take to being overdriven as well as modern LED’s.
LED’s like the XP-L2 / XHP70.2 always surprise me with more lumens then I expected OTF.
Far as actual numbers, I would not even try to guess, too many variables. Better to just see what happens.
I would like to reflow a XHP35 but I’m not sure about the polarity. Can someone please tell me if the pad with the arrow (marked as anode in the datasheet) is the positive pole or the other pad?
That should be the positive pad. "Anode" essentially means "positive terminal"
If you're ever worried, and own a multimeter with a diode test function (on some multimeters, the diode-test and continuity function are the same), you can test that way. Although, come to think of it, I'm not sure if that would light a 12v emitter... I haven't tried that. Works great for testing all my 3v emitters though lol
Thank you, Lexel and Scallywag! They could just add a + in brackets to anode for the idiots around The multimeter test function is also my favourite for 3V leds so I was worrying about the 50% chance of killing my led.
there is no 50% chance of killing an LED with DMM diode test
the DMM limits the current to a very low level and the LED blocks reverse polarity and has a protection device
The 50% chance of a dead led was intended if you just solder the led without looking at the polarity.
The XHP35 led is up and running in its flashlight now. Thank you again!
Another way to test flashlight leds is if you don’t have a DMM is to use a 9v alkaline battery. The internal resistance is to high to give enough current to blow the led.
if you solder a XHP35 in reverse on a driver it simply is as if you would run the driver without an LED
No light, drivers usually run into high voltage protection and nothing happens
TA, I need a clarification on the PWM efficiency test…
Many FET drivers use resistors to slow down the FET. When a light is PWMed this reduces current, improving efficiency.
In another thread I see you stating that efficiency improvements are caused by lower temperature.
Some of there surely are but I would be interested in knowing whether temperature is really the sole reason why you got not-so-bad efficiency here or is it a combination of temperature and lower current.
The multimeter test function is also my favourite for 3V leds so I was worrying about the 50% chance of killing my led. 
Thank you again! 
