Thrunite TC20 - XHP70 - 3800lm

I noticed Thrunite had a less expensive line-up. I’d like some quality comparisons of both.

Thrunite pricing is good… even if they broke, they can repair easily… one of my modded thrunite was dead, and it was only the spring… can easily replaced… thrunite also use the best led bin.

I think I am going to order this TC20 today, I know robo819 and he is impressed with it so that gives it a green light… been looking at it since it was first announced and the discount emailed to me from Thrunite makes it more appealing. Not sure about the use of a orange peel reflector with the XHP-70.2, should have been a smooth reflector. I’ll either polish the reflector or use an MT-G2 emitter in mine. Will figure that out after I get a hands on with it. (mayhap a bit of a power bump as well, again, we’ll see)

Thanks for all the input on tints, I know it’s always a matter of perspective and one guy that “loves it!” may just love campfire orange while the next guy might have a thing for pulsar blue, so it’s always objective.

The odd hues in the beam profile from the 70.2 come from the new style from Cree, same as with the XP-G3 and XP-L2… the substrate is completely covered with the phosphor instead of just the die itself. I’ve had nice results from slicing the dome off then dicing the extra phosphor off the substrate. This is flip chip technology so there are no bond wires, the connections are under the die instead. So I may end up slicing and dicing the 70.2 emitter and polishing the heavy orange peel reflector to gain a hot spot and better throw. All depends on my impression of the lights performance in the end.

I am very much a fan of the MT-G2 so the orange peel reflector may play well with that emitter, will probably do some swapping out first before doing any texture removal.

Really a fan of Thrunite’s knurling, wish more lights had this more aggresive style…

(quote shortened)

I really love the TC20, I got the NW and I don’t notice the odd hues when using it outdoors, only see it on white walls, but I do wish it had more throw. I think it’s definitely lacking in that department.

For the MT-G2 swap… I don’t know if Thrunite is using a 6v or a 12v emitter, (I assume 6v) but if the stock driver were used and it’s 6v wouldn’t it burn up the MT-G2 emitter from too high current? (I’m assuming it’s pushing around 4A+) Or if the TC20’s current was more in line with Cree specs there would be a substantial loss of output? (about half?)

XHP70.2: 4292 lm @ 4.8A (6V) or 2.4 A (12V)

MT-G2: 1987.5 lm @ 3A

(specs. from cree)

Does that sound correct? Of course I know you’ll be changing or modding the driver if you do it, just thinking out loud about MT-G2 with stock driver.

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:+1: :+1:
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:+1: :beer:

Just to see what it would do to the beam I sliced and diced the stock cool white emitter. By that I mean I sliced off the dome as close as I dared to the phosphor and then I diced the edges of the phosphor around the die itself and cleaned that off.

It made a pretty good improvement in both the throw and the tint of the beam , with much less of the dark or olive around the main beam itself.

Edit: There was a loss of about 290 lumens by slicing and dicing the emitter , but worth it IMO to get the better tint and slightly tighter hotspot.

Here is a picture of the sliced and diced emitter and some beamshots with the newly sliced emitter also.

These shots at WHITE garage door from 20 feet away………

Low

Medium

High

Turbo

These 2 shots at Gate 100 yards………….

High

Turbo

I may go get some peel washers and have a go at it too :+1:

The XHP-70.2 is a 6V emitter. It has 4 dies wired 2S2P and is typically set up on a 6V board but there are 12V boards that run 4S to the 4 dies. It would be prudent, of course, to check voltage at the emitter to ensure it is indeed set up as a 6V system, which I’m sure it is because robo measured 4.9A at the emitter which would be quite high if it was 12V.

The MT-G2 is a 6V emitter and like the XHP-70/70.2 it can be overdriven substantially over the Cree datasheet specs. Substantially! I’ve run the fat MT-G2 at over 16A, the 70.2 at well over 18A. Am quite certain the Thrunite isn’t approaching anywhere near these overdriven levels.

The larger MT-G2 would indeed lose lumens at the same current draw as the original 70.2, I would be willing to lose lumens for the tint of the larger emitter. Not worried about this one being for throw, have plenty of other lights that fill that niche… :wink:

Edit: Nice job by the way robo! Very clean slice and dice! :wink:

Thanks for the info, that’s awesome and good to know the MTG can handle such high current, I want to use it in a couple of lights at some point. I’ve got the EagleTac MX25L3 with MT-G2 P0 EasyWhite (5000K) It has a real nice beam.

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So I take it the MTG’s output doesn’t increase if driven at over the 3A datasheet spec? (I guess that’s what is meant by “Max Light Output”)

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The one I’m looking at for the lights is MT-G2 Q0 (5000K) it seems to be the one that’s available everywhere, not sure the difference of P0 vs Q0 but I think P0 is only CRI 70, maybe Q0 is CRI 80-90?

There’s no mention of Q0 that I can see on any of the Cree MT-G2 data sheets, this was also mentioned on a thread here back in 2014.

beam0 ,

The Cree data sheet is showing what they rate the emitters output at the given amperage and is the Cree recommended maximum.

As with any of the emitters that we over drive , From the MT G2 down to the smaller emitters , they all will gain output as the current increases , up to the point that you over drive them too much and then they simply will over heat and burn out.

A good example would be the XP-L HI which has become a favorite for modders. Cree list the max current at 3 amps with a maximum light output of 1095 lumens.

The XP-L HI is overdriven easily up to 7 amps and beyond and when it is driven at 6.5 to 7 amps the output (depending on light , reflector size etc.) will also increase from the listed 1095 lumens to easily 1450 to 1600 lumens. I have modded a good many lights myself with these emitters and see numbers consistently go over the 1500 lumen mark when driven double or more the listed amperage.

There is of course a point when you will get all the lumens you can and then more current , if the emitter handles it, will simply cause even more heat than what is already caused by over driving the emitter , with no more lumen gain.

Of course you will have a lot more heat to go along with the increased current and I am pretty sure a shorter life span of the emitter , although I am not too sure of how much shorter life span , as I have yet to have a properly over driven emitter burn out , with some of them 2 and 3 years old.

I wish I could absorb the knowledge all you experienced modders have. The more I read, the more CooKoo I get. LOL!

I am a green horn in the modding department myself , still learning by the day and trial and error many times.
If it was not for the help and knowledge Dale has given me all along and TomE in the beginning , I would still be scratching my head and wondering what to do…….lol

Thanks for the info, knew about overdriving single die but thought maybe the MTG2 was different and reached its max point around the max spec.

Got confused because I’ve read where you can’t use a FET driver the 2nd gen multi-die XHP50.2 and XHP70.2 but I think that’s because they’re low VF, but I should have realized MTG2 wasn’t though since my EagleTac MX25L3 MT-G2 is rated at 2750lm (2375 ANSI) which is already above Cree max spec. Not sure how much current it’s pushing.

I’m wondering what the lumen output would be over-driving an MTG2 at 4.9A (w/stock driver in the TC20).

The MT G2 would be more under driven at 4.9 amps I think , you would have to get into the 12 or more amps range to really start driving the MT G2 hard.

As far as the XHP 50.2 or 70.2 you need 6 volts for them so the “standard” FET wouldn’t work if you are looking at the 3 volt FET drivers.

There are a good many Buck and Boost drivers though that will drive the larger emitters much harder than the recommended specs say from Cree.

EDIT: you can actually get the FET with the 6 Volt setup and use them just fine in the lights with the XHP 50.2 and 70.2.
If the forward voltage is too high as it is in some emitters (like the XP-L2 I know for sure) then using smaller gauge wires and limiting the current flow can be done and still stay within the “safe” zone.
The MT G2 I have not messed with but I think it would be the same for it.

The MT-G2 is in a sweet spot between 7A and 9A, peaks at around 12A but can take up to around 16A. Max output is around 4300 lumens or so. It’s a huge fat die, color in the output is a favorite of mine, it’s not a thrower except by sheer force, much like the 70, but the 70.2 can certainly make more lumens and throw further as a smaller die (quad die of course, the MT-G2 is considered an array with 72 dies).

Last time I was counting I had some 11 lights with the MT-G2, not sure what I have now. The thing to look at is balance, output for the amperage consumed and a blend of performance vs heat, as well as color of the light to meet preference. So it’s a mixed bag of goods, very seldom is sheer output or sheer throw the be all end all.

My TC20CW arrived. The battery is on the charger. :+1:
I like it and I haven’t put juice to it yet!!

Oh Thanks a lot… one of those “must haves” is it? I didn’t order it yesterday, man I have so many lights and have spent so much money lately. Got my hospital bill paid off from the surgery in June and feel good about that, but wow does it ever put a dent in the old thin billfold!

Haha, yeah. The lights sitting next to me getting charged, it’s plugged into the 3.0 USB port on my desktop, still in the red. I don’t think it will charge very fast. At least not fast enough. I’m being lazy. Both my Opus chargers are full of 18650’s that arrived from Llion Wholesale today. I have an Xtac VC4 not doing a thing. I “should” plug it in huh? LOL! This TC20 is just the right size, not too long, not too fat, obviously at 3800 lumen I assume it will put out a NICE amount of throw and spill. And it’s a Thrunite, it’s got some tooth to the knurling! That is a HUGE plus with me as a feature because my hands are always on the slick/dry side. Edit: Oh, my 6000 lumen Nitecore (edit) TC28 TM28 :person_facepalming: arrived too. The batts are on the charger :+1:

Ow God I’ve tried to resist and seeing this thread was enough for me…….

I did try to order in hkequipment and it is out of stock……. DANM!