Oh yeah, the XP-L2 is a flip chip style emitter, no bond wires on top. De-doming usually results in blue light escaping from too much phosphor pulled off the slick die surface when the dome separates. There are ways, but it isn’t straightforward nor is it especially easy.
How would it fare with a close shave? Too much lumen loss?
Gosh! Just awoke from an hypoglycemia, guess it :facepalm: was time (@#$%!). It's one of those undesirable mind programs under my self-steem issues, claiming to get resolved; and I mean to heal my type I diabetes. Just a matter of a little money, really.
Left an unfinished custom e-switch cardboard over the table, glad it's still there; only two resistors left. :-)
¯\_(ツ)_/¯
What if we were to dedome these newer emitters via high speed machine sanding? With a Dremel type tool plus some sort of sanding bit and a reliable way to slide the emitter at the right height under the bit sideways… 
By the way, did this thread got bumped because of my little update? 
Cheers ^:)
Thinking of those doodads that cut thin slices for microscope slides. Something like a collar to act as a guide, and a razor that just skims across that to take off everything up to that collar, and nothing more.
A single clean cut would likely be cleaner than a rough cut and sanding it down.
There ya go…
Was thinking of a ring, spacer, whatever, like on an XR-E, and using that as a guide to slice off the bulk of the dome.
Does the Sofirn C8T really come with AR-coated glass lens?
I ordered both the Sofirn C8T and C8A to check them out.
I notice that the glass lens of my C8T does not appear to be AR-coated (when viewing the glass lens at an angle, it does NOT have any hint of purple/blue like in AR-coated glass lens).
The glass lens of my C8A shows a very slight hint of purple/blue though, so I suppose it is really AR-coated. Also, the glass lens on my C8A seems “clearer” to me than the one on the C8T…
(unless there are AR-coated glass lens that do not show any purple/blue when viewed at an angle…)
No visible coating on my C8T as well.
I can’t see any. Does anyone else find the group change difficult ?
Why is this T model not available on Amazon?
Or are they waiting to release updated model maybe?
Ok, I sent a message inquiring about the non-inclusion of AR-coated glass lens for my just-receive Sofirn C8T.
Sharing the response I got from Sofirn:
“About the AR coated, the production before 1st, Feburary, all the C8 series not use the AR- coated glasses, and after that time, all C8 series will use the AR- coated glasses.”
That’s odd . The review date was before Feb yet AR lens listed in specs.
Since you deleted the content, it since is impossible for anyone to read or contribute to it. You chose this way.
Not really. I rarely use it anyway. 
Cheers ^:)
Just my guess: possibly some batches had AR-coated lens, then when they run out of stock of AR-coated glass lens, the others batches used regular glass lens, and they continued selling the non-AR-coated C8T anyway. Unless this characteristc was questioned, Sofirn would probably pass it as “AR-coated” C8T… Up to the customer to verify the claim (flashaholics will likely notice immediately, but muggles may not.)
Some have said it is not a big deal, only increases throw slightly.
Well, I saw a video once where some fellow reported going from 435 to 440 lumens OTF upon installation of an anti-reflective coated lens in some flashlight, which barely is an 1.5% increase in output and ≈0.5731% additional throw. 
Cheers ^:)
Just order and now waiting for one of these to arrive…
Is it safe to assume the intensity should say 96000 not 9600?
is there a short tube (so could use cr123a) available?
and many reports says 500m range but here it says 250m whats is correct?
thanks in advance to those who answer my questions
CR123A (or 2x 16340) does not seem to be supported in any of the Sofirn C8x variations.
I was also thinking about the intensity figure in the specs. 9600 CD would be too low, it’s probably 96000 CD (almost similar to the Astrolux C8), the specs mention up to 4.5A for the C8T.
Using a DMM to measure tailcap current, I got 4.56A with a freshly charged VTC6 on highest mode. Using UT210E ammeter and a piece of copper wire on freshly charged VTC6, the reading is up to 6.37A — I believe the Astrolux C8 (BLF A6 driver) would just be similar amp readings…
The specs on Sofirn C8T website previously mentioned 250m (I think the manual also indicates that), but checking the website now, the throw distance figure now reads 500m (max).
(I’m wondering, does the Astrolux C8, rated at 640m throw distance, really throw further than this Sofirn C8T? or are they just very similar? given the ampere readings…)
A lot of these AR coated lenses cause a slight tint shift as well. I think it’s more of a marketing tool than useful in reality, IMO.
Up to 96Kcd sounds right, I got above 100Kcd (using a smartphone so beware).
CR123A? I do not think you'll get the desired performance with such power source, the torch is designed for high drain li-ion cells. There is a new YODELI OEM 18350 cell being rewrapped by some companies (Vapcell, KeepPower), now good luck finding some short tube you can lego with.
Cheers :-)
looking at a short tube option just to make it more compact on occassions… My primary flashlight is the BLF A6 so this is to be a partner with that. SO as long as it has the out put am not too bothered about runtimes.