I get that, and a conflict between safety spex and actual operation is indeed a problem.
But most lights are handheld, and if you feel your hand starting to cook, you lower the power, so even a light with no/defective thermal regulation could still be “safe”.
Hell, I left my S2+ tailstanding to light a room via ceiling bounce, and couldn’t even grab it long enough to turn it off like 5min later. Dumb move on my part.
Make it a designed-in air-cooled engine and we can agree. At least with a temp gauge, you can see it’s cooking itself to death and back off… or keep driving it hard and watch it melt internally.
I had a waterpump blow its seal and start leaking coolant. No gauge in the car, just the idiot-light. Feathered the throttle the rest of the way to work. Air-cooled it enough to get the light off, only barely starting to glow on uphill runs.
Afternoon, topped it off with water (held), and made the whole trip home the same way. Idiot-light never even went on.
Point being, even a completely unregulated light can still be used safely with a little care and common sense. If regulation is off or nonexistent, yeah, that’s a problem if it’s specced to have it and be operational, but it still doesn’t mean it’s a fire-hazard unless it’s misused/abused.
Space-heaters can be perfectly safe… just don’t put it next to nice flammable curtains.
Where did you see that it was advertised as having thermal regulation? Can you show me the post? From my memory, it hasn’t ever been advertised that way on this thread.
I’ve always been wondering whether this has temperature regulation and low voltage protection throughout the group buy. Seems we’ve confirmed it doesn’t have temperature regulation but I still want to know if it has low voltage protection. Not having thermal protection to me is kind of a plus since I use the flashlight in my hand for practical purposes. But I do hope it has low voltage protection although I never really run my flashlights until its dead though.
Where did you see that it was advertised as having thermal regulation? Can you show me the post? From my memory, it hasn’t ever been advertised that way on this thread.
Umm, I don’t know that, I was just looking at post 1342 …… and assumed. Perhaps I’m in error. My bad if so.
(wait, there it is on that diagram. Internal 55 degrees thermal control?)
Just wanted to share something interesting. I just received my Pflexpro S2+ with triple Nichia NVSL219BT 219b 4000k emitters and OMG the tint is BEAUTIFUL! Much better than the many 219c 4000k and 5000k and even 219b flashlights that I have. Super good buy if you are interested in a well-built EDC with good customizable UI. https://www.pflexpro.com/Nichia-219-…b-3up-3.8a.htm
Also I compared this light to the Haikelite MT09R XHP70.2 80+ CRI 4000k and surprisingly the tint was pretty much indistinguishable. That means if anyone wants to match the legendary perfect NVSL219BT tint in a high powered flashlight, swapping in the XHP70.2 4000k 80+CRI will do the job. The 4000k version of the MT09R is no longer available after the GB. So glad I got the 4000k version.
Aso Terry, I would like to request that Haikelite consider offering the XHP70.2 80+ CRI 4000k emitter as a standard option in future Haikelite flashlights and not just as a GB special. Having a high power lumen monster with the renowned Nichia NVSL219BT tint is just one of a kind awesome.
The lack of thermal protection is just a typical breakdown in manufacturing communication, I would guess. The light was planned to have it, but nobody told the programmer. Drivers done and shipping, programmer probably discovers the mistake, but decides to keep it quiet and play ignorant. Nobody tells the marketing or distribution people, light ships and the issue is not discovered until customers burn themselves an report it.
Welcome to the difficulties of managing a Chinese manufacturing process.
I don’t think this should be underplayed. Given the range of other flaws, the fact something like this can be ‘forgotten’ makes me wonder just how safe these lights are, either for experts of those less experienced. What other electrical nonconformities are yet to manifest?
So far, from the GB batch, we have:
- underpowered lights (mainly the 35s)
- lights which don’t turn on at all
- lights which turn on a flash a few times and turn off
- lights which require the thread to be loosened to make a proper connection
- lights which don’t turn off (illuminating the button even when otherwise off)
- no indication of any thermal regulation
moving goalposts about expectations of GB quality
Every indication was given that the quality of these units would be solid, and a rigorous QA process would be applied on every unit before dispatch. Unless somehow this all happened during shipping, I’m not sure what QA protocol could have been followed for this to happen.
For me, if I’m paying $100+ for a light, I expect it to work as advertised. I should not have to worry about me or my family burning their hands or shorting 4 18650s.
Friday night we tested my MT09R XHP35 Hi from this GB and a Haikelite MT07s. The MT07s has a bit higher range, but the beam of the MT09R is much wider.
My luxmeter shows 220.000 candela for MT07s and 196.500 candela (MT09R:6meter, Sony VTC6) for my MT09R (NW, but it looks like CW).
Our second luxmeter shows 27% more candela ! But my luxmeter compared with many other luxmeter and shows the same candela for many other flashlights like other TLF users had detected.
For example:
Astrolux MF02NW: 422.640 cd (6 meter, Samsung –30Q)
Acebeam K60: 144.000 cd (6 meter, Imalent MRB186-P30)
Imalent DT35: 121.320 cd (6 meter, Imalent MRB186-P30)
Jetbeam T6: 129.600 cd (6 meter, Imalent MRB186-P30)
Klarus G35: 195.000 cd (6 meter, Imalent MRB186-P30, is very sensitive with different batteries!!)
Utorch UT02 NW and CW: 86.000 cd (1 meter, with different batteries)