This was posted on M4D M4X blog yesterday: “my dear friends! Neal has some problems with his PayPal account, so i deactivated his shop until everything is working again.”
Yes i am running 18350 Keeppower in the FiTorch ER16 stock tube. However, i did have to put a small magnet on the battery for it to work.
If it had a little bigger nipple on the positive side, it would work without a magnet.
Thanks for the list of 18350 lights!
Hum, supposedly the Wuben TO10R should be a High CRI flashlight (using 16340 battery), but it doesn’t seem to be a High CRI light, as the TO46R also wasn’t.
Me and bilakos10 reviewed the TO10R recently.
Too bad it doesn’t take 18350s, as it would be a (even) better light!
I find it silly that Wuben and others, post pics of green things to demonstrate CRI… that is so wrong! What is needed is Red things. otoh, if you’re trying to hide the green tint of an XPG3, then green things are the way to go.
now look at the green tint around the edge of the beam in this Wuben photo (across the ecotec logo, on the mans sleeve, and on the battery cable cover
to test for CRI, I like to shine a light on red things, including the palm of my hand, and foods like steak and salmon.
Unfortunately, almost all the lights in this thread have green tint… and are Low CRI
I have the triple Nichia 219CT 5700k, it has absolutely no green tint and it renders the reds and colors very well. Although I’d like to try the 4000k someday.
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It’s my first High CRI flashlight, and one thing I’ve learned by it is the neutral lights (that I always thought had great color rendering) actually are just tinted light, yes the greens and browns appear better looking than with cool white, but you’re not really seeing the true colors, you’re seeing colors under a slightly yellow “Tinted” light. The Nichia shows the objects true color as you would see it in normal light. Reds, browns and greens look as they should.
Well, there’s another thing I didn’t know :zipper_mouth_face: Thanks for telling me that!
And let’s keep the quest for some more 18350s :smiling_imp:
I’ve been using my S2+ triple in that form and I like it a lot! Wish it was slimmer, but…that will fall on the 14500s category
That’s decent. But I recently read something about problem with D4 sub-lumen mode, couldn’t quite understand it, like either it didn’t exist or was hard to land on with ramping.
The D4 does not have a sublumen mode in stock form. A few more facts
the lowest low is 1.7 lumens
No true overdischarge protection
Not compatible with protected cells
No reversed battery polarity protection
Uses PWM above 150 lumens, and has no constant output regulation above that.
Im not a fan, but plenty of people are.