Q8 modding

Yes
No
No
No
Probably yes, but see line 7
No
Yes and it will be hard with separate boards
Sorry I cant quote so much from mobile.

You can use this MCPCB, its isolated from the center pad of the black flat: led4power
In the Q8 should fit 4 16mm MCPCBs, so you have to cut the mosleds a bit to fit.
Than it could work with the stock driver.

As I modded my Solarstorm T4 with black flat, I was not aware of the negative center pad and I at the first tries I used it therefore in direct drive (3x Sony VTC5 and 4x Black Flat). They survived.

Q8 reflector is too flat at the bottom. No place for wires.

There is a recess in the bottom center of the reflector.

If I take the stock board out and replace with 4 separate ones (if any are small enough) that will leave space between each of the boards that was previously filled by the stock board. It will be very close but I think if I clock each board with the + and - solder points toward the center where the reflector has the relief it might work. Maybe I can cut small flat pieces of copper to extend the + and - contacts to the center recessed area if necessary? Would be much easier if had single board like stock light. Hope I can find a single board that would work.

If necessary you can carefully grind cut outs to the reflector at the bottom, not too difficult with a dremel. I did this with my Q8 Janus (see above).

good morning from Greece,

After some hours using my Q8 stock, i did the spring bypass, in a similar way than yours but a little different...

First i decide to do the bypass without effecting the traces of the pcb. So some centimeters good quality silicon wire, some 3.5 mm bronze ends, a little soldering and 20 minutes later i finished it...

https://www.flickr.com/photos/152815818@N02/40660718772/in/album-72157693529169974/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/152815818@N02/38893082860/in/album-72157693529169974/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/152815818@N02/40703503501/in/album-72157693529169974/

Then I drilled the existed M 2.5 mm deeper and tap new M3 threads. After some polishing the aluminum surface of the body and the bronze ends, I used M3x10 mm inox torx bolts to make the best possible contact between the pcb and the body...

https://www.flickr.com/photos/152815818@N02/40660717992/in/album-72157693529169974/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/152815818@N02/38893081130/in/album-72157693529169974/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/152815818@N02/40660717282/in/album-72157693529169974/

This is how it seems from inside... Very clear and very effective...

https://www.flickr.com/photos/152815818@N02/38893085400/in/album-72157693529169974/

PS. Not possible today to post the pictures from flickr... only the links... If anybody can do it, please welcome...

Use imgur instead of flickr

I have used flickr for 6 years now, worked well for me thusfar. In another thread I just posted how I get the correct link for use in BLF (and without sharing your complete photostream), here’s a copy:

I use flickr too and find it cumbersome to get to the correct cyberlink for my pictures. What I do is:

In the browser I go to my photostream (I never got it to work in the flickr-app), select the picture, then click the ‘share’ icon, choose the BBCode and select the picture size you want, click to select the code and then copy and paste it in the address-line of a new browser-tab (this tab is just used to dump the code somewhere), then select and copy the part in the code that starts after ‘[img]’ and ends with ‘jpg’.

On my tablet I can directly select the correct part of the BBCode so I do not need to copy/paste the code in the browser-tab

There is no possibility to do it with flickr, so lets imgur it....

After some hours using my Q8 stock, i did the spring bypass, in a similar way than the braided bypass but a little better...

First i decide to do the bypass without effecting the traces of the pcb.

So I used few centimeters of good quality tanned silicon wire, four 3.5 mm bronze ends, a little soldering and 20 minutes later i finished it...

Then I drilled the existed M 2.5 mm deeper and tap new M3 threads. After some polishing the aluminum surface of the body and the bypass bronze ends, I used M3x10 mm inox torx bolts to make the best possible contact between the pcb and the body...

This is how it seems from inside... Very nice and very effective...

That is one nice spring bypass panagis. Well done. :beer:

:+1:

It works
It’s a bit more complicated than imgur but it works

Optech Q8 lens covers if anyone is interested. PK Micro size

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A46PYL0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Mine has that fried egg look using those

It irritated me that the tube from the battery is not symmetrical in relation to the head. I decided to change it. I honed the edge of the tube to achieve the right level. Electric contact has improved by the way. This is what Q8 looked like before the amendment:

And so:

Now the symmetry from the beginning to the end is perfectly preserved.

^

The improvement is striking. Now I'll have to fix mine too. Thank you for sharing.

/\\ . Nicely done. :+1:

So how much material from the tube did you remove? I like it and might do the same :beer:

I wouldn’t file the tube, I’d rather use copper wire and adjust its thickness. Hammering thinner, use a file, etc.
When the tube gets off over time you can replace the wire with a new one.

I collected about 0.5mm so not much.

For me it is such a makeshift. I prefer more lasting solutions :slight_smile: