Of course. Just glad i can help someone during the few and far between log in’s i get nowadays. Both great light options and +1 on LB’s advice of usb charging, can’t mess up too much if removing battery is avoided.
Thanks, that looks like a nice light, but also in the “not just a flashlight thread:
[Quote=Robertb]Heck, nobody seems to care that the D4 is a potential pipe bomb if the battery is accidentally put in backwards…
[/quote]
I don’t know what to make of that statement, if it’s true or false, if it’s a non-issue with protected cells, etc…, but that’s the worst case scenario I’m keen to avoid. Clarification would be awesome (from anyone).
I’d second (or third, whatever) the recommendation for the S2+. I have both the 4x7135 and 8x7135 versions and the difference is definitely noticeable but not huge. Up to you which one you want to go for.
If this is a loaner it would be a good idea to buy a protected cell for it. The S2+ goes into low mode and flashes when the voltage is low but that’s not really idjit-proof, which is one of your criteria. The idjit would just say “huh, it’s flashing.” There are various threads on BLF and CPF that report which protected cells fit or don’t fit in the S2+.
Excellent point Throw, I will make sure I know that one.
Thanks Donny, I meant to put in the OP that I intend to only buy protected cells. The unprotected cells for the Q8 will only be used in the Q8 as a set.
has low voltage protection built in, because it has the Biscotti firmware which was developed by our very own Toykeeper, here on BLF
I’d still put a protected cell in it, though, just in case your idjit opens it and takes the cell out. That’s what I do with my loaner unit.
You can select any “Emitting Color” you like - I recommend the U6 3A for a nice, neutral white light output - but only go for a 7135x3 or 7135x4 “Body Color”. The other versions will run too hot for safety with the uninitiated. My loaner unit is 7135x3 and works nicely; the 7135x4 would be a bit brighter, a bit warmer, and run out of charge a bit faster.
I always seem to forget about that protection part. I normally don’t buy or use protected cells but being as you may be handing this over to someone not so inclined to leave it well enough alone the D4 may not be the perfect light. If you don’t mind the C8 platform the Sofirn C8F is a mighty fine light. Moonlight mode, well spaced (for me anyway) normal modes, quick access to a yard filling 2500 lumens of turbo. I love that light too. $34 for the light or $38.50 with charger and battery.
Forget the BLF A6 and Emisar D4. These are really good lights but not for everybody. Both can become very hot on high/turbo, especially a D4 on 18650.
The Convoy S2 with 6x7135 is an easy choice.
The new Convoy S9 with moderate output (and heat) has built-in USB charging.
Another budget option is the Eagle Eye X2R - very similar to the S2 with built-in charging.
Use something like protected Panasonic NCR18650B 3400mAh.
I sort of lost track of things during the site outage but a C8 in some flavor is probably in my future. I did order a Convoy S2+ from AliExpress. Just a 4× for my “idjit” light. Will probably by a 6x or maybe a couple more next time there’s a good sale.
Not sure I’d want to hand the Zanflare F1 to an Idjit. The tailcap switch is very easy to miss. Result is the Idjit just presses the side switch and wonders why nothing is happening.
I think the ideal 18650 light for Idjits should have the following features:
Idiot-proof UI - UI should be extremely simple.
Low output - if the light only goes to 500 lumens or so there’s a lot less risk the light will overheat and blow up, or burn a hole in something.
Speaking of idjits and F1s, I made the mistake of getting 2 more F1s. Flash price was 20bux… for whatever reason I thought it was 10bux each or 20bux total. Talk about idjit…
Anyway, ordered 2 of the same, whatever they were supposta be, whether both CW or both NW.
Zanflare F1 is very good light. It is very simple UI actually. One tail switch to turn it on, another side switch to set mode. Those single switch lights are more complex if you think of it this way.
That happened to me a couple times with the F1! Click the side switch, nothing… screw and unscrew everything… nothing… until i remember there are two switches!
I’ve no recollection of having lost part of my brain though… i guess that’s the idea behind the procedure? lol
Biscotti has a mode group with the maximum output limited to 50%, so you could get an 8 chip model for maximum output when you’re using it, but limit it to the equivalent of a 4 chip model when you lend it to someone.
If you order directly from Simon on AliExpress you can get Biscotti on any S2+, just make a note when you place the order.