Boruit Headlamp Review D10 (aka. EHL0628) - King of the Budget Headlamps?

is the rj02 noticeably bigger than this? I am torn between those 2 lights

Yes. Heavier, too.

It’s a no brainer. Here are the advantages of the new one:
Lighter
Smaller
Has low voltage protection
No visable PWM
Whiter light, less blue
Better sealed against water
Pops out of headband holder with no fuss
Easy to swap a new emitter in, nichia, sst40, etc…

The only advantages the RJ02 has is:
Infinite brightness adjustment, but the new one seems fine with its 5 levels.
The motion activated switch, it’s only between full power and off and I never found it useful.

Awesome, thanks for the heads up!

I finally have approximate lumen measurements from my DIY foam sphere (light still in stock form):

Level @Start @30secs

1 17 17

2 58 58

3 149 148

4 293 290

5 573 547

Pretty stable outputs in the first 4 mode levels (at least for 30 seconds). I'll add these to the O.P. too. If I do an emitter swap (219C) I'll post those results too, but that will be awhile. -Garry

1 Thank

Looks like I’m gonna swap in an XP-G3 5C on a 16mm star. I looked all through my parts envelopes and don’t see where I ever ordered XP pcb’s to reflow a 219C onto. Of course I could reflow the 219C on to the board containing the XP-G3, but I’m going to try the XP-G3 out first.

-Garry

EDIT - I never proceeded with this. I waited on new XP pcbs.

Inhave bought several now and find them excellent. The switch is positive and machining is good. It’s plenty bright…by my estimate around 900 lumens. The charging works well. This thing is a great bargain for $11.

I think 900 lumen is too high. It’s only drawing 1.9A and not even a genuine Cree led. I was thinking 500 to 600 lumen.

Well after over a month of waiting I finally received my order from KD containing DTP XP boards! I reflowed a Nichia 219C onto a 20mm board and swapped it in. I accidentally broke the ends of those short emitter wires off when I was breaking the old pcb loose, so I soldered and heatshrink wrapped some extensions on them (would have needed to do anyway). I did have to file down the side of the KD pcb to fit it by the wires. It all worked out well (finally a mod that went fairly well). For now I only have the stock reflector in it, but expect to try a TIR optic at a later time. I will run it through my sphere again very soon and post those numbers. I did however re-check tailcap currents (though these were measured with a good high-drain cell vs. the old Trustfire I did the first measurements with):

Original #’s:
5 Step Quasi-Ramping:
Level 5: 1.87A
Level 4: 0.84A
Level 3: 0.40A
Level 2: 0.13A
Level 1: 0.05A

Newly measured#’s:
Level 5: 2.11A
Level 4: 0.99A
Level 3: 0.47A
Level 2: 0.17A
Level 1: 0.05A

So not very different and could be the different battery.

Some photos:
My extension wires soldered on:

Heat shrink wrapped:

KD DTP board fit, filed edge at wires:

Soldered up;

Put back together:

Beamshot (cell phone camera):

Beamshot comparison with cool white Zanflare F1 on the right (cell phone camera):

-Garry

Nice mod :sunglasses:
A better tint and beam as well!
I’m still using mine with the original LED, but with a pebbled TIR ! Maybe someday I get inspiration from you and swap a NW or WW tint LED !

Thanks for sharing!! :+1:

Ok, I have new lumen measurements after the emitted swap to the Nichia 219C. Numbers are down from the fake XM-L2 emitter measurements (which I guess makes sense). All taken @ 30 seconds

Level 1: 12.5
Level 2: 45
Level 3: 115
Level 4: 228
Level 5: 448

According to djozz’s Nichia 219C test (bin difference???), he measured about 675 lumens at 2.0A. That’s without any losses, so if we guess 20% loss 675 - 135 = 540 lumens. I wonder if I damaged the emitter during the reflow (took me a couple tries to get it on right).

-Garry

finally got mine and i swapped it with 5200K tint + 90 degrees TIR optic lens, my most used headlamp right now :+1:

What are you using to measure the lumens?

Did you find a TIR that fits, or did you file one down?

Extensions leads are the way to go on this headlamp.

I tried soldering new leads onto the driver, but I’ve had to put the mod on hold until I get some thinner silicone insulated wire. Getting the wires into the channels in the battery compartment is a pain, and there’s no room for any slack at the driver end.

I had to file one to fit! I used a TIR lens like the ones used for Convoy S2+, but it didn’t fit well, so I filed it on the edges and it’s good now :wink:

[quote=JasonWW]

My DIY foam ball integrating sphere, which is now calibrated against the average of 3 Fenix HL55’s. I don’t expect my numbers to be extremely accurate, but close enough and they are definitely consistent and repeatable.

Some links:

The build: https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/33478/64

The calibration issue seeing differences from 3 Fenix HL55’s: https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/50232

-Garry

Look closely at my 3rd pic in post#79 above. You can see the edge of the dome looks nicked. Output looks normal without any weird beam artifacts or weird tints, so I assumed it wasn’t anything serious. I do have one more Nichia 219C left and could try that one, but I kinda feel like leaving well enough alone.

-Garry

Just a comment on the included Boruit “4000mAh” 18650:

Recently ordered some of the other Boruit headlamps for trying out, including the above EHL0628 (single “L2” LED) and another very similar headlamp but with dual “G2” LEDs. I ordered the package which include 18650s.

The Boruit “4000mAh” 18650s from the recent batch I ordered arrived last week and I did capacity test — these new batch Boruit 18650s now register only around 1200mAh capacity (0.50A discharge rate using MC3000, from 4.20v to 2.50v cut-off)

(I checked my previous Boruit 18650 with around 1600mAh capacity, which weighed around 39.3grams; whereas the new batch Boruit 18650s weighed around 37.0grams and around 1200mAh capacity)

Maybe their batteries are like Ultrafire?

Dang, I totally missed this headlamp because I thought it was about the other Boruit! The other model has worked great for me at work but is about the size of a RedBull can compared to this one.
Thanks for all the info and modding tips!!! Now I just need to find the best deal and patiently wait for round-the-world shipping.
I work in a production shop that is too broke to replace failing lighting and even with proper lighting it’s difficult to see inside machines for repair. I’ve turned my fellow employees on to headlamps and they now reach for them rather than trying to work on things one-handed with a standard flashlight. This type of safe, rechargeable, effective headlamp is a blessing.
BLF FTW!!

edit: JasonWW, WTH is that battery you posted?!!! unfreakingbelievable