So left is v2?
Edited for new information…
Crenelated bezel is V1 non crenelated bezel is V2
V2 you cannot easily access the led/driver because the steel ring is press fit screwed on, on V1 you can because it is screwed on.
I like V1 better… wish they made a 2AA version of it.
Do you have the V2 to confirm that? Still looks like a threaded bezel to me. It looks like the press fit ring is added to the bezel.
Yup.
I have V1, I recall reading that for the V2, maybe someone with a V2 can confirm
Has that same seam at the bezel as the V1. Looks like all they did was not machine the crenelations in the bezel, pressed in a stainless ring. Might actually work better for waterproofing. Looks like the only difference is a longer tail cap to machine the lanyard ring.
This is the V2 closeup of the head, I think it is uni body…
It very well may be.
I think we need to be careful to not make statements based on speculation and presenting them as facts as alot of people will base their purchase decision on the things that are stated in this forum.
Based on my research, and confirmation from Manker via email, the front stainless bezel unscrews and is not glued. This should allow equally good access to the LED as possible in V1.
Sweet! Though I can’t see myself needing to mod them. The driver is potted. (To me that’s a good thing.) The LED should be fine for a long time. Is it me seeing this or is there only half a star?
Is nice to know that it is not press fit, will edit post to reflect that…
Yes it’s a proprietary half circle design, but you can probably fit other mcpcb’s with a little filing here and there…
Yes, I was really happy to see this. I was trying to find a place to buy the original one and it was very difficult to find. After some research, looks like the T01 V2 has the potential to be an equally good light with better battery compatibility.
I actually went ahead and ordered one to be modded with a Nichia 219C 4000K. I will lose some throw as a result, but will be much happier having the warmer CCT and high CRI.
I hear the NW HI is already really good, but still nice to be able to open the light once LED tech advances so you can still upgrade the light.
And it looks like you were correct about the head being one piece
Please share with us on how you mod the light when you get it. I am curious to know how you would make a full star fit for future reference.
I don’t think modding the light will be any different than the previous model:
I don’t plan on changing the star, just remove the existing LED and reflowing the 219C.
I’ll keep you posted nonetheless.
TheDude, thanks for sharing this. Interesting to see how 1 person had success modding with 219C , and the other didn’t on lower modes.
Fingers crossed it works for me. Will keep the thread updated once done.
How did you unscrew the ring on that T01 II ? Was it difficult to remove? What type of tool do I need to take one apart.
I received both of my Manker T01 II’s today. Unfortunately there are problems with both of them.
The problems seem to be related to the 1.5v side of the light. I have used an Eneloop Pro cell.
Using 14500 Manker cells, everything works fine.
The first light will not offer any mode accept High mode, clicking it to cycle modes does nothing when using an Eneloop Pro cell.
You can double click and go into the flashing modes with no issues.
I can not program the light with a Eneloop Pro as holding the button down to activate program mode will do nothing accept shut the light off after 5-6 seconds.
The Second light works fine through modes EXCEPT when I go to program it.
When I go to program it in low mode, It cycles through Med low, then low low, then it jumps into high high. That’s not even suppose to be in that mode group!
All the other program mode groups work normally.
So far I’ve been having bad luck with AA powered flashlights. First the Lumintop EDC05 and now Manker. I’m beginning to lose faith in these two brands due to quality control issues.