GFS16 - Battery Indicator Tailcap Light & 1mR FET Tailswitch! (Rev B)

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GFS16 - Battery Indicator Tailcap Light & 1mR FET Tailswitch! (Rev B)

Hello BLF,

TL;DR:

I built a tailswitch system comprised of two PCBs, called the GFS16 System. First is a 18mm Taillight board which provides the regular taillight, and also features a battery sensing system to change the LEDs colours when the battery voltage is low (Rev B features 5uA standby current!). Second is a 16mm Tailspring/FET board, which allows replacement of the switch for a super low resistance FET, allow for the best performance in high current flashlights. All PCBs are up on OSHPark as well as parts list so you can make your own! The components are small so please keep in mind that these may be challenging to solder. 

As some of you might know, I've been making some small boost drivers for my flashlights in a little quest to make a nice, small, very bright flashlight. While making these (specifically with Convoy S2+ hosts since they're affordable and good quality), I came across a thread about lighted tail-lights (http://budgetlightforum.com/node/37851). That seemed like a fun thing to do, but I figured maybe I could make some small improvements!

My Convoy S2+ hosts came in a variety of tailcap versions, some with a black rubber boot, and some with a black metal switch. While waiting for my driver PCBs to be fabricated, I figured that I'll just make something for fun! cool

Most regular DIY tailcap lights are very simple - they're essentially a set of one or two PCBs, which replace the PCB/washer combination on stock tailcaps. These new PCBs hold the main clicky switch, as well as the battery spring, a few resistor (and/or trimmers), and a variety of LEDs. When the light is off, the driver leaks a little current through, and this is sufficient to light up the LEDs in the tailcap. In order to make the tailcap light visible, modders often swap out the rubber boot for a clear/white one, or use clear rubber gaskets.

One of the things often requested was to build in some kind of battery indication. This seemed like a good feature to have.

 

So here's what I came up with!

You can populate the LED ring with a variety of different LED colours, and choose the brightness based on the series resistors. Also note (importantly!) that I made sure there are no components on the periphery of the top side of the LED board, since this part supports the entire weight of the retaining screw from the other side. I saw some other designs with resistors placed on the keepout area, but I guess it's better to have a flat surface.

But what's all the extra stuff on the board?

And how does it indicate battery level?

Is that a Microcontroller on board and do I have to program yet another controller? (no of course not Smile )

Here's what the board does.

There are two voltage set-points which you can set using R3/R4 and R5/R6. The first is a low-battery threshold voltage (for example, 3.3V), and the other is a critical battery threshold (for example, 3V). In the example above, I've configured the tail-light board to:

  • Light up Blue by default (obviously you can change your own colours if you want)
  • When battery level drops below 3.3V, Light up Red
    • This is a good indicator that maybe you should charge your battery
  • When battery level drops below ~3V, Turn off all LEDs
    • This is a good indicator that your battery is really low, the board turns off LEDs in a bid to prevent draining the battery flat too quickly

However, this isn't done with any microcontroller on board!

Instead, the board features a small dual comparator with a built in reference voltage. The first resistor pair sets the first trip voltage, an the second resistor pair sets the 2nd trip voltage. I've chosen a specific push-pull comparator so it then drives 3 appropriate small mosfets to turn the LEDs on and Off. (Update - in Rev B, a different lower I_q comparator is used, as well as a separate voltage reference, but essentially the operating logic is exactly the same).

The result is a little more functionality than the standard lighted tail-cap, and some indication to let you know you should charge the batteries. Best of all, no need to fudge with programming or firmware.

So does it work?

Fortunately it does! 

That's all folks! Thanks for reading smile

 

...

 

Alright I was kidding!

Hopefully you all figured something fishy was going on with that little odd slot cutout in the board. sealed

Well the main reason why I made this was specifically related to my GXB172 driver project (http://budgetlightforum.com/node/37851), where I drive a XHP50/Nichia144 LED at around 50W of power, from a single lithium cell. Now in the bench tests I've done, the GXB172 driver is capable of drawing over 15A from the cell. This is a pretty large current, and we start to see some major problems, specifically with switch resistance and longevity. 

In my previous lower-power GXB17/20 drivers (20W driver), these drivers often pull something like 6 to 7+A from my batteries. Recall that the first few hosts I used were cheap SK98-type flashlights, and I quickly found that the tail-switches were completely not up to the task of handling those load (they melt). Since then I've had two out of three of those switches fail, one where the contacts seemed to have welded together, and another got so hot it melted the casing partially and failed mechanically. 

Granted these switches are not as robust as the Omten1288 or similar branded switches used in the Convoys, but I was (1) uncomfortable with having the switches frequently switch and interrupt ~10 to 15A in my GXB172 driver, and (2) was encountering problems with the significant voltage drop across the switch resistance.

I was able to measure the switch resistance for several random Omten switches, and they ranged significantly from ~40mR to 10mR, and varied depending on how got they got, and how used they were. Omten switches are technically only rated for 1-3ADC with a maximum contact resistance of <200mR (http://www.omten.net/pbs1288-push-button-switch/pbs1288b-push-button-switch.htm). The fact that people frequently use them in DD FET drivers at ~6 to 10A is quite amazing! 

However let's take a ~30mR average for a new Omten clicky switch. Even at 30mR resistance, at 15A, the voltage drop across just the switch is 450mV!

Even for a high quality cell, at 15A discharge, this can result in the driver input voltage falling and approaching 3V. The result is far from ideal since the driver sees that the input voltage is low, but to compensate for a fixed output, it has to draw more current, causing the voltage drop across the flashlight contacts to increase, etc etc. The result is a detrimental feedback loop, eventually resulting in the driver sensing that the voltage is too low, and triggers battery protection, even when the battery is not anywhere near depleted.

As a result, I created a prototype switch, replacing the clicky-switch with a very low resistance MOSFET!

This is certainly not a new idea, but I don't think I've ever seen it implemented in a system which is a drop-in replacement for tailcap PCBs with no modification needed! 

I didn't really spend too much time to think about it but I did some very basic CAD modeling and it all seems to fit in just fine.

Here's how it looks like:

As you can see, it's not only a replacement for the regular spring/switch PCB, but it works together as a system with LED boards, such as the one I described above. You could however do away with the lighted-tailcap and just use a regular washer instead. Again keep in mind that I designed this specifically for the Convoy S2+ torchlight, but it seems like it might fit similar lights. 

Using a good FET, it's possible to achieve 'switch' resistance one order of magnitude better - from ~30mR to sub 3mR!

The FET of choice is any of the PowerPak SO8 package -  this allows options to use any SO-8 FET, or my recommended PowerPAK FETs. For example, I used the good but fairly expensive NVMFS5C404NL, which at ~3.3V gate drive has a R_ds_on of around 1+mOhm! The SiRC16DP is another fine and cheaper choice.

Due to the thin-ness of the FET, I placed it underneath the actual switch, which now acts as a physical switch to trigger the Gate of the MOSFET! 

 

[Update]

To accommodate flashlights which have tighter tolerances, or for people who already have LFPAK33 FETs on hand such as those used in some small DD FET drivers, here's Rev B with an additional footprint for an alternative FET if you want :). You'll have to use a wider spring though!

 

At this point if you were following me closely, you would have thought to yourself - "but don't you need a source for the gate voltage to trigger the FET?", and you would be right. To make this work, I could stuff a coin battery in somewhere, or a supercapacitor. But the former was too big, and I really didn't want to have the trouble of replacing batteries, and the latter was either too expensive, or had insufficient capacity in the physical size constraint. 

Turns out though, people make really tiny rechargeable lithium batteries! So this is what I've used. These are used frequently in low-power systems where the battery might be used for RAM backup in the event of a power loss, or for energy harvesting etc. So on the PCB, I have a tiny rechargeable battery, with a small voltage regulator which charges the small battery from the main 18650 cell when the light is turned off. In order to fit a bigger battery, I made a little slot on the top LED PCB. So that's what the slot is for sealed

Here's how the two boards look like:

Shown here with the FET and no switch soldered on yet, so you can see what's going on. 

I didn't know what to call this project, so I've just used a similar naming convention to my GXB project, and I've called it the GFS16 system, where 16 stands for the nominal 16mm diameter, and FS stands for FET Switch, or Fancy Switch, or Frivolous Switch, whichever you like sealed! The Fet board is 16mm in diameter and the LED board is 18mm. The hole in the middle fits the standard Omten1288 switch.

 

With the PCBs soldered up, here's a quick series of photos showing one assembly I did with a Convoy S2+.

First up, I changed the black tailcap switch with a stainless-steel one with a clear rubber boot. This allows light to shine through so we get the lighted tailcap effect.

 

Next, I disassembled the tailcap. Notice how the LED ring replaces the aluminium washer, and the FET board replaces the stock switch PCB. I then desoldered the spring and Omten switch from the stock PCB. You could just use a new Omten Switch but I had no spares lying around.

 

The spring as well as the switch were soldered onto the new FET switch PCB. Note that I kept the solder-wick spring bypass. No point saving 20-30mR in our switch and losing it all in the spring!

 

Finally, it all comes together! Power to the LED board comes from two small wires from the 16mm FET board. You can see the + and - pads in the PCB photos above.

Here's a completed tailswitch with additional pads, allowing for a LFPAK33 FET to be soldered on in the middle of the battery spring. For this configuration, a larger spring like the Noctigon Beryllium Copper springs work great. 

 

Here's a video demonstrating how it switches LEDs when the voltage drops! 

Alright that's all for today. Turned out to be a fun little project. Best of all, it actually seems to work great with my GXB172. 

So again I'm not sure if there's any product like this out there, but from my previous projects, it seems like maybe some people would want to build their own as well. 

 

[Update Aug 18]

Updated the LED board for even better stand-by current draw performance. Fady, Lexel, etc helped with some good feedback so I spent a half hour doing a quick update, replacing some components with much lower quiescent current ones. The result is an order of magnitude less current draw! The result should be a ~12x longer standby time after LEDs turn off, and a ~30+% longer shelf time with LEDs on.

No thought was given to optimize for cost, so the parts are a little expensive, but that's ok I think since the absolute cost is still decent ^_^. Feel free to sub for cheaper alternatives!

 Above is the Rev B of the LED board with much better standby current characteristics. This was measured at (5.6+-0.1)uA at 3V battery voltage.

 

FAQ

  1. Where can I buy this? Are you selling this?
    Why would you want to buy this from me and give me money when... you can just order the PCB yourself! cool I've uploaded the files on OSHpark, and I'll be writing up a page with more details soon. If you're interested in ordering your own, note that I recommend ordering the right thickness to suit your needs. If you're using Rev A of the FET board with a fet under the switch, I recommend ordering 0.8mm thick versions. With Rev B and using the FET inside a big spring on the FET board, 1.6mm boards are fine for both. You might have to shim the switch for best clicky performance.

  2. Do you have a parts list?
    Please scroll down for the Parts List and PCBs!

    Note that while the board can be assembled at home, it does have fairly small SOT723 and 0402 parts, so you'll need a very small tip soldering iron, needle tweezers, preferably some magnification, a bit of patience and a whole lot of flux. Good luck! Parts list are at the bottom of this post!

  3. Can you make one for me?
    Unfortunately probably not, as much as I would like to help you out. However with a bit of practice it's not too hard to assemble one yourself. Smile I recommend ordering many more of the SOT723 fets than you think since they're the hardest ones to solder here. 

  4. Will this work in my flashlight?
    I really have no idea if it will fit or not unfortunately. I designed this specifically for my Convoy S2+, so if you have one too, it should fit.

  5. Are there any known problems?
    Yes! At least for the LED board (Rev A), when the voltage drops below ~2.5V+, we are out of spec for the comparator, so it might stop working and the red LED may come on again dimly. You will run the danger of depleting your battery, but I suppose this is no different from a regular lit-tail cap, but at least slightly better since it extends the 'safe' shelf time. This is improved further in Rev B which works all the way down to such a low voltage that your battery would be really dead before this happens.

  6. Will this work with ___ driver?
    This seems to work just fine with my GXB172 driver with no modifications, but I hear some drivers need a bypass resistor. I have no such drivers so I've been unable to test them, so your result may vary. A lower value bleeder works best but at a cost of increased wasted power. See next question. Likewise, different drivers have different architectures, so it may mess with the battery charging circuit. Likewise, I suspect the resistor divider values will vary depending on the driver you plan to use, so a bit of experimentation is key to determine the correct resistor divider values.

  7. What bypass resistor value will I need for my driver?
    As mentioned, I'm not sure, but definitely the lower the value the better, at the cost of reduced efficiency when the light is operating (since the resistor is just burning power). Typically values between 100 to 1000 ohms work well. At the worst-case scenario of 100 ohms, the resistor will burn about 176mW, so pick a resistor of at least 1/4W rating. I've used 220, 330, 560 and 1kR across regular Convoy S2+ drivers and they seem to work just fine.
     
  8. How long can the light be turned on for when using the GFS16 FET switch?
    Good question. This depends on the capacity of the tiny rechargeable battery used. For small switches, a 1mAhr battery is all that fits. With a 1M resistor on the gate-source, the battery should technically last on the order of ~12 days, which should be far longer than the main cell will last for! If there is more space, you can swap it out with a ~3.5mAhr battery instead to get more battery life. The battery automatically recharges when the light is off and the cell voltage is sufficiently high (nominally >3.5V).

  9. Can the FET16 switch be used without the LED board
    Yes!

  10. Can the LED18 board be used without the FET board?
    As long as you make the right connections (+ to flashlight body and - to spring), yes!

  11. Will there be revisions to the board(s)?
    I'm not sure, probably though. I designed all these boards in half a day so... probably I'll find things to improve. Writing this post took about as long as making the boards. Whew! Suggestions and feedback are welcomed! 


OSHPARK PCB ORDER (recommended to get Rev Bs)

Recommended to order in 1.6mm regular PCB for Rev B, or 0.8mm 2oz is ok as well - make sure if fits your host stackup! Tested to fit for Rev B PCBs in 1.6mm thickness and Convoy S2+. YMMV for different hosts.

Again, each board works just fine as standalone!

18mm LED Board Rev A: https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/GtiA9PQQ
18mm LED Board Rev Bhttps://oshpark.com/shared_projects/L27QGJFW
16mm FET Board Rev A: https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/U2bESKnQ 
16mm FET Board Rev Bhttps://oshpark.com/shared_projects/dwoKK9Uo 
     - Added dual FET footprint, you can now use a LFPAK33 FET in the middle of a big spring, so you can also order a regular 1.6mm thickness PCB Smile


PARTS LIST

 

If you're reading this, you're planning to put together your own board. It's pretty easy, but do keep in mind that some of the components are very small, so this is best done with some magnification, needle tweezers, very fine solder wire (this is very important! Use 0.015"/0.40mm solder wire or thinner), and a fine soldering iron tip. Good luck!

 

LED18 Board with Battery Voltage Sensing BOM (REV B)

  • R1a,R1b,R1c - 30kR 0402
  • R2a,R2b,R2c - 12kR 0402
  • Q1 - RZM002P02 or any other SOT723 P-Fet
  • Q2,Q3 - NTK3043NT1G or any other SOT723 N-Fet
  • D1a,D1b,D1c - Blue 0603 LED 150060BS75000 or colour of your choice
  • D2a,D2b,D2c - Red 0603 LED 150060SS75000 or colour of your choice
  • C1 - Any 10-100nF 0402 capacitor
  • R3, R7 - 619kR 0402 resistor
  • R5 - 470kR 0402 resistor
  • R4,R6 - 1M 0402 resistor
  • U1 - MAX6007BEUR+T
  • U2,U3 - TLV3691IDCKR

Rev B now features 12x lower I_q for longer standby and remains simple with no additional bells and whistles. 

3.32V low voltage threshold (R3 and R4, sensed with R4 as lower)
Since people are asking, I've also tested this board with a 560R bleeder resistor across a Convoy S2+ standard driver, with R3 = 681kR. This gives a 3.55V low-voltage threshold (hysteresis at 3.75V), which seems to be fairly practical for most people. 

3.01V turn-off threshold (R5 and R6, sensed with R6 as lower)

Careful component placement so no components hit the shelf on the LED side. All resistors or 0402 in size (1 or 5% is fine), and all LEDs are 0603. You will need to wire + to the flashlight body, and - to the tail spring. Typically this is done with a switch PCB (see here http://budgetlightforum.com/node/37851), or you can pair this with the FET16 board like I've done. You can use as thin a wire as you like since the current is very low.

 

LED18 Board with Battery Voltage Sensing BOM (REV A, older version)

U1 - MAX9052BEUA+
Q1 - RZM002P02
Q2, Q3 - NTK3043NT1G
R3 - 115kR
R4, R6 - 360kR
R5 - 68kR
R1a,b,c - 30kR (or adjust for brightness)
R2a,b,c - 12kR (or adjust for brightness)
LED1a,b,c - Blue, 150060BS75000
LED2a,b,c - Red, 150060SS75000

Not that R3/R4 and R5/R6 set a voltage divider which is compared against 2.5V. 
R3/R4 sets the first trip voltage. In this case, when the cell voltage is ~3.3V, the LEDs will change from Blue to Red
R5/R6 sets the 2nd trip voltage. In this case, when cell voltage is ~3.0V, the LEDs will change from Red to Off

Alternate values for R3 = 68k and R5 = 33k will result in a trip voltage of 3.0V and 2.73V respectively.

All resistors or 0402 in size (1 or 5% is fine), and all LEDs are 0603. 
You will need to wire + to the flashlight body, and - to the tail spring. Typically this is done with a switch PCB (see here http://budgetlightforum.com/node/37851), or you can pair this with the FET16 board like I've done. You can use as thin a wire as you like since the current is very low. 

 

FET16 Board - works together with LED18, or standalone if desired

Spring - Noctigon Beryllium Copper spring is great (http://www.mtnelectronics.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=385)
Q1 - Any suitable PowerPAK SO8 or SO8 NFET
        I've used a SiRC16DP or NVMFS5C404NLAFT1G - these are totally overkill though! 
        Here are some options on Mouser
Q2 - Any suitable LFPAK33 NFET
        I've used PSMN2R0-25MLDX, but any here on Mouser should work fine.
 * note: you only need to solder on either Q1 OR Q2, not both. FETs should have low on resistance at >2.7V V_gs for best performance
SW1 - Omten1288 (Mtnelectronics or Kaidomain)
D1 - Any SOD323 diode like https://www.diodes.com/assets/Datasheets/SBRT05U20S3.pdf
R1 - 2.2kR 0402
R2 - 100R 0402
R3 - 1M 0402
C1 - 2.2uF (0402, 10 or 16V X5R Ceramic)
U1 - AP2210N-3.3TRG1
B1 - MS412FE-FL26E
  * note - this small rechargable battery needs to have its soldering legs carefully cut-off, and then soldered standing vertically upwards as shown in the images above. This may be tricky to do. Use sharp flush cutters to cut the tabs as close to the diameter of the battery as possible. For soldering, I typically wrap the battery in kapton tape then hold the battery with a pair of needle nose tweezers (tape to prevent shorting out the battery), and carefully solder one side first, then the other, onto the PCB pads. Do check that the battery is not shorted out, and the polarity is correct.
   * note 2 - IF you have more space and you use the Q1 option, it may be possible for you to fit the larger MS518SE battery in.  
   * note 3 - you might need to add a driver bypass resistor (see here http://budgetlightforum.com/node/37851) to allow your driver off-time memory to work, depending on the driver. In addition, ensure that sufficient voltage reaches the tailcap so the rechargeable battery can be charged from the main cell. Typical bypass resistor values of 470 ohms to 2.2k ohms should work.

 

As always, thanks much for reading! sealed

Website: www.loneoceans.com/labs/

GXB172 - Single-cell 50W Constant Current Programmable Boost Driver (17mm) - 7V @ 6.5A (+ 12V and 9V configs)
GXB17
 / GXB20
 - Single-cell 20W Constant Current XHP50/144 Boost Driver (17 & 20mm) (superceded with next gen GXBs)
GFS16 - Integrated 1milliOhm FET Switch System & Improved Tail-light PCBs with Battery Sensing (16-20mm)

Edited by: loneoceans on 09/16/2018 - 15:54
loneoceans
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[ Reserved For PART 2 ]
coming soon!

Website: www.loneoceans.com/labs/

GXB172 - Single-cell 50W Constant Current Programmable Boost Driver (17mm) - 7V @ 6.5A (+ 12V and 9V configs)
GXB17
 / GXB20
 - Single-cell 20W Constant Current XHP50/144 Boost Driver (17 & 20mm) (superceded with next gen GXBs)
GFS16 - Integrated 1milliOhm FET Switch System & Improved Tail-light PCBs with Battery Sensing (16-20mm)

saypat
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I’m reminded of Everett Smile

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the fet board is very interesting, i always have problem with the durability of clicky switch in convoy s2+( and more other lights)

Forgot my pen

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This is very interesting, thanks for sharing!

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Cool stuff Thumbs Up

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This will be especially interesting to the hard-core modders, like Dale, who are always squeezing a little more performance out of their lights.

Reason is not automatic. Those who deny it cannot be conquered by it. Do not count on them. Leave them alone.
-Ayn Rand

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Thumbs UpBeer
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What kind of battery/supercap do you use?

I would use a LFPAK33 Mosfet

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DavidEF wrote:
This will be especially interesting to the hard-core modders, like Dale, who are always squeezing a little more performance out of their lights.

Apologies for my ignorance and I'm not sure who Dale and Everett are, but hopefully the GFS system will be useful for anyone looking to try some new things on their lights ^_^/

Anyway I've been using this new switch system for a little bit and it's been working really nicely so far. I'd imagine people who like to use DD FET drivers might find this useful to squeeze out more performance.

Lexel wrote:
I would use a LFPAK33 Mosfet

Sure the LFPAK33 is a fine package. IIRC it's used on a lot of smaller FET boards as well as those used in the LED4power boards. However I saw no reason to since space is really not a constraint, and the Powerpak fets are generally more robust, with a lot more options available from different manufacturers with comparable or cheaper costs, and definitely much better R_ds_on at low voltage gate drives sealed. I suppose if I used one of those fat springs http://www.mtnelectronics.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=385&search=spring I could put a smaller FET in the middle. Maybe I'll just make a board with dual footprints and everyone will be happy!

 

[Edit] 

Ok I had half an hour to mess around and I've made a Rev B with dual footprints. cool 

OSHPark board here if you want to order: https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/dwoKK9Uo

Here's how it should look like!

Won't fit small springs but I guess if you're serious about modding, you'll have a few of these lying around: http://www.mtnelectronics.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=385&search=spring. So now you can use whatever FET you want sealed.  Personally though for my builds I'm just going to stick with the PowerPak SO8 just because the FETs are strictly superior, especially at low gate drive voltages cool

Happy weekend everyone!

Website: www.loneoceans.com/labs/

GXB172 - Single-cell 50W Constant Current Programmable Boost Driver (17mm) - 7V @ 6.5A (+ 12V and 9V configs)
GXB17
 / GXB20
 - Single-cell 20W Constant Current XHP50/144 Boost Driver (17 & 20mm) (superceded with next gen GXBs)
GFS16 - Integrated 1milliOhm FET Switch System & Improved Tail-light PCBs with Battery Sensing (16-20mm)

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Yes, it should be useful to anyone wishing to add lighted tailswitch. I was just saying that the hard core modders will be the most likely to jump in early, because they’ve already squeezed out maximum performance in every other area possible. Dale is BLF member DB Custom. He has made some insane builds, including getting his titanium neck light to output over 1000lm using just a 10440 cell for power.

Reason is not automatic. Those who deny it cannot be conquered by it. Do not count on them. Leave them alone.
-Ayn Rand

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Sub’ed.

www.lumenzilla.com

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Loneoceans, you’ve got mad skills. I’m glad you found our forum!

I’ve built a bunch of the basic illuminated tailcaps, would love to build a couple of these bad boys. I’ve soldered quite a few 0805 LEDs by hand (what size did you use?), but those resistors look absolutely TINY.

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gchart wrote:
Loneoceans, you've got mad skills. I'm glad you found our forum! I've built a bunch of the basic illuminated tailcaps, would love to build a couple of these bad boys. I've soldered quite a few 0805 LEDs by hand (what size did you use?), but those resistors look absolutely TINY.

Hello GChart, thanks for your kind commends! The LEDs I used are 0603 size and the resistors are 0402 size. I recommend these Wurth Electronic LEDs, only because they have a nice triangle marking on the bottom telling you which is the anode and which is the cathode. However you can use any other size you want. 

I made them small so I could fit them properly in a ring with sufficient clearance around them. For example in the Convoy S2+, the LED ring replaces the metal washer which the switch sits on, which then presses against the shelf. For some of the other LED rings out there, it appears that the resistors are placed in this keepout area so you'll be crushing the resistors, which should work fine, but is bad practice (e.g. the end caps of the resistor can crack from the substrate etc).

https://www.digikey.com/products/en/optoelectronics/led-indication-discr...

As for soldering, if you can solder 0805, you can solder 0402. If you find it too difficult, it's actually more a matter of using the right tools and solder. I highly recommend using a fine tip soldering iron (actually this is not that critical), needle tweezers (critical, and cheap), and the thinnest solder wire you can find (VERY important - use .015"/.38mm or 0.020"/.5mm solder). This will make your life so much easier. 

Also magnification helps, either with an optical setup, or with a USB microscope or your phone (there are apps that do this!).

 

Website: www.loneoceans.com/labs/

GXB172 - Single-cell 50W Constant Current Programmable Boost Driver (17mm) - 7V @ 6.5A (+ 12V and 9V configs)
GXB17
 / GXB20
 - Single-cell 20W Constant Current XHP50/144 Boost Driver (17 & 20mm) (superceded with next gen GXBs)
GFS16 - Integrated 1milliOhm FET Switch System & Improved Tail-light PCBs with Battery Sensing (16-20mm)

gchart
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I’ve been using the PilotDog68 Rev5.3 boards (top only; not using the bottom/pot boards). The LEDs seem to have sufficient clearance, and the resistors are located on the bottom of the PCB so as not to be crushed (link)

I’ve found that when working with some of these small buggers, it’s easier to put a dab of solder paste on the PCB pads, place the components, and then just touch the connects with a small/chisel tip iron. Not sure if that’s proper, but it works well for me.

Looking forward to that BOM Wink

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Mad skills sounds about right. Smile Nice work. Thumbs Up

My current and or voltage measurements are only relevent to anything that I measure.

Budget light hobby proudly sponsored by my Mastercard and unknowingly paid for by a hard working wife. 

djozz said "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

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Nicely done, I might have to put one these together

have light, will travel

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Hello all,

 

Thanks everyone again for your kind comments. I managed to put together another set of FET tailswitches with the smaller form-factor FETs and nice Beryllium Copper springs from Noctigon and it's working beautifully. 

All fits well (in a Convoy S2+). 

An alternative view.

 

Finally, above is a clear view of the GFS16 (LED 18mm) board with components soldered as a reference for people trying to make their own. The BOM is updated in the OP. With the default resistor values, BANK 1 of LEDs turn on when V_bat is >2.97V, and changes to BANK 2 when 2.73<V_BAT<2.97V. 

Website: www.loneoceans.com/labs/

GXB172 - Single-cell 50W Constant Current Programmable Boost Driver (17mm) - 7V @ 6.5A (+ 12V and 9V configs)
GXB17
 / GXB20
 - Single-cell 20W Constant Current XHP50/144 Boost Driver (17 & 20mm) (superceded with next gen GXBs)
GFS16 - Integrated 1milliOhm FET Switch System & Improved Tail-light PCBs with Battery Sensing (16-20mm)

Pierre
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Nice! Thanks for sharing.

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loneoceans wrote:

Damn I wish I could solder small stuff ‘cause I would love one or two of these Love
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Small stuff indeed. Amazing work. Beer

My current and or voltage measurements are only relevent to anything that I measure.

Budget light hobby proudly sponsored by my Mastercard and unknowingly paid for by a hard working wife. 

djozz said "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

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Great! I have been waiting for years for this! A guy on CPF used to offer these, but with forward clickies and completely over-the-top prices.

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Hello all, 1st I want to thank loneoceans for sharing this with us. just finished building 2 switches and they work with the H17F driver only if a bleeder resistor is added, I used 2.2Kohms and all functions flawlessly. My question to loneoceans or anyone who may know... would a lower value bleeder expedite the coin battery charging time.. with the 2.2Kohms it took about 3HRs off time to charge from 2.55v to 2.67v on a full 18650 battery, Thanks.

![img]https://i.imgur.com/64TojtG.jpg[/img]!

![img]https://i.imgur.com/bSa23Fr.jpg[/img]!

![img]https://i.imgur.com/eugZNBC.jpg[/img]!

![img]https://i.imgur.com/Q1uZNvW.jpg[/img]!

![img]https://i.imgur.com/N5EzwVN.jpg?1[/img]!

 

2.2Kohms bleeder is only good for the switch board alone, for both the switch and the led board... 3x 2.2Kohms or 733ohms worked perfectly.

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Fady wrote:

Hello all, 1st I want to thank loneoceans for sharing this with us. just finished building 2 switches and they work with the H17F driver only if a bleeder resistor is added, I used 2.2Kohms and all functions flawlessly. My question to loneoceans or anyone who may know... would a lower value bleeder expedite the coin battery charging time.. with the 2.2Kohms it took about 3HRs off time to charge from 2.55v to 2.67v on a full 18650 battery, Thanks.

![img]https://i.imgur.com/64TojtG.jpg[/img]!

![img]https://i.imgur.com/bSa23Fr.jpg[/img]!

![img]https://i.imgur.com/eugZNBC.jpg[/img]!

![img]https://i.imgur.com/Q1uZNvW.jpg[/img]!

![img]https://i.imgur.com/N5EzwVN.jpg?1[/img]!

 

2.2Kohms bleeder is only good for the switch board alone, for both the switch and the led board... 3x 2.2Kohms or 733ohms worked perfectly.

 

Hello Fady, great job on the assembly of the boards, looks like you did a fantastic job and many thanks for sharing the images.

Fady, the small coin batteries are designed to be charged fairly slowly, and as you probably have seen during assembly, charging is from a small 3.3V regulator and a series 2.2k resistor, and is designed to charge the cell slowly. Now when the switch is on, the battery bleeds via a 1M resistor on the FET gate, so any losses would be through internal discharge, and parasitic loss through the fet and reverse flow on the regulator, which should be very slow. 

The first time you're charging the coin cell from the factory, it should take a while. But once it's fully charged, the voltage shouldn't drop substantially any more after in everyday, normal use. Also I suppose compatibility of the GFS system will depend on which driver you're using.

 

 

Website: www.loneoceans.com/labs/

GXB172 - Single-cell 50W Constant Current Programmable Boost Driver (17mm) - 7V @ 6.5A (+ 12V and 9V configs)
GXB17
 / GXB20
 - Single-cell 20W Constant Current XHP50/144 Boost Driver (17 & 20mm) (superceded with next gen GXBs)
GFS16 - Integrated 1milliOhm FET Switch System & Improved Tail-light PCBs with Battery Sensing (16-20mm)

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Hi loneoceans, Thanks for your comments, I built nine so far and they working great except for 1 died within 12Hrs… The light was left on a table.. next day I noticed the red leds were on, I checked the 18650 voltage and it was full.. the switch wouldn’t work, after a bit of T/Sing found out that the coin cell went down to 0v, not sure if somehow it shorted out or was just a bad battery, I drew out the schematics of the switch circuit & made sure I do not have a short somewhere… so I went ahead and replaced the battery, all good now. I also used green leds instead of blue on some of them, P/N 150060GS75000.
A tip for anyone planning on building 1 is to superglue the led board on top of the switch otherwise the rotation force may break the coin cell solder joints, that happened to me.

Now that I have the schematics i and looked up the LDO reg. datasheet, what happens in the circuit once the coin cell voltage is equal to the REG. voltage? and whats the function of R2 also what do you mean by reverse flow on the reg, isn’t the diode there on the positive rail to prevent this? sorry loneoceans I know I’m asking too many questions!! : )

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Fady wrote:
Hi loneoceans, Thanks for your comments, I built nine so far and they working great except for 1 died within 12Hrs... The light was left on a table.. next day I noticed the red leds were on, I checked the 18650 voltage and it was full.. the switch wouldn't work, after a bit of T/Sing found out that the coin cell went down to 0v, not sure if somehow it shorted out or was just a bad battery, I drew out the schematics of the switch circuit & made sure I do not have a short somewhere... so I went ahead and replaced the battery, all good now. I also used green leds instead of blue on some of them, P/N 150060GS75000. A tip for anyone planning on building 1 is to superglue the led board on top of the switch otherwise the rotation force may break the coin cell solder joints, that happened to me. Now that I have the schematics i and looked up the LDO reg. datasheet, what happens in the circuit once the coin cell voltage is equal to the REG. voltage? and whats the function of R2 also what do you mean by reverse flow on the reg, isn't the diode there on the positive rail to prevent this? sorry loneoceans I know I'm asking too many questions!! : )

For battery longevity, it's important to charge the battery at or lower than the manufacturer rated charge current. This is outlined in the datasheet here (https://www.sii.co.jp/en/me/files/2016/02/English_Micro-Battery-2016.pdf). Once the battery voltage reaches regulator voltage, the battery simply stops charging. Diodes are not ideal devices and there will always be a small amount of leakage current, likewise with the FET gate, and internal leakage within the battery. R2 is not strictly necessary but it reduces the initial turn-on gate drive current which will lead to a more consistent turn on performance (esp. since the micro battery has a fairly large internal resistance).

Note that the LED board and FET board are standalone so there's no requirement to use both. Also if you use the stacked-fet-switch stackup, with a little bit of filing, it's possible to also swap the battery out (MS412) to the bigger MS518. 

Website: www.loneoceans.com/labs/

GXB172 - Single-cell 50W Constant Current Programmable Boost Driver (17mm) - 7V @ 6.5A (+ 12V and 9V configs)
GXB17
 / GXB20
 - Single-cell 20W Constant Current XHP50/144 Boost Driver (17 & 20mm) (superceded with next gen GXBs)
GFS16 - Integrated 1milliOhm FET Switch System & Improved Tail-light PCBs with Battery Sensing (16-20mm)

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Cool! thanks for the explanation, yes I’m aware that both boards are standalone, I already have 3 of them built with the MS518SE battery, it fits best when using Q1 on 0.8mm board and the 1.6mm led board.

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I really like the idea and the realization. Is it possibble to use 3×2 leds in 3 different colors for battery indicator? So that way maybe the switch can be green from 4,2V to 3,7V and orange from 3,7V to 3V and red under 3V?

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ZozzV6 wrote:
I really like the idea and the realization. Is it possibble to use 3x2 leds in 3 different colors for battery indicator? So that way maybe the switch can be green from 4,2V to 3,7V and orange from 3,7V to 3V and red under 3V?

With the current PCB design with no modifications, nope, but otherwise, yes very possible with different logic :).

 

Website: www.loneoceans.com/labs/

GXB172 - Single-cell 50W Constant Current Programmable Boost Driver (17mm) - 7V @ 6.5A (+ 12V and 9V configs)
GXB17
 / GXB20
 - Single-cell 20W Constant Current XHP50/144 Boost Driver (17 & 20mm) (superceded with next gen GXBs)
GFS16 - Integrated 1milliOhm FET Switch System & Improved Tail-light PCBs with Battery Sensing (16-20mm)

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loneoceans wrote:

With the current PCB design with no modifications, nope, but otherwise, yes very possible with different logic :).


 


Just asked because mostly I don’t discharge my batteries all way down and I will be happy with an earlier reminder.
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ZozzV6 wrote:
Just asked because mostly I don't discharge my batteries all way down and I will be happy with an earlier reminder.

If you read the original post, it's very easy to change the resistor divider values to suit your threshold voltages, and to also take into account any effect the series driver may have on the tailcap circuit. Smile

Website: www.loneoceans.com/labs/

GXB172 - Single-cell 50W Constant Current Programmable Boost Driver (17mm) - 7V @ 6.5A (+ 12V and 9V configs)
GXB17
 / GXB20
 - Single-cell 20W Constant Current XHP50/144 Boost Driver (17 & 20mm) (superceded with next gen GXBs)
GFS16 - Integrated 1milliOhm FET Switch System & Improved Tail-light PCBs with Battery Sensing (16-20mm)

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