Hi Splott-Light
Glad these experiences helped you on your mod as well Indeed, the stock “beam” is kind of :confounded: but the TIR allows it to get better! If I didn’t have the idea of the triple mod, I would have stayed with the TIR instead of the reflector.
It was too much “greenish”!!
If I may ask, what TIR did you use? I used one from another light and it fit perfectly (without the gasket). Did you use TIR + gasket?
If you can tell or show what you used that would be great as other members may benefit from that as well
I would also like to know this. The reflector height is 15mm, the TIR’s I have are around 11.7mm-12.6mm so they’re too short. Couldn’t find any the right size that were made for XP-L2
Hi Splott-Light! Thanks for posting the links for the TIRs!
Hum, those seem to be like the Convoy S2+ TIRs, with the white gasket! Funny, I didn’t experimented those before I tried the one I used for a while… :person_facepalming:
Well, but if they fit well (even with the mods you’ve done) that’s nice
I guess that someday I will try to open the SP32 (not the SP32A) and stick a TIR there as well, to smoothen the beam
Thanks for taking the time to write
And if you are Mad…welcome to the club :smiling_imp: :face_with_monocle: :sunglasses:
Received my SP32A earlier this week and really liked it. :+1:
I have the same optics from Fasttech, in 10, 15, 30 and 60 degrees, also from a few years ago.
So I tried to put a 15 degree in and accidentally dedomed the LED :person_facepalming:
The centering gasket was stuck (glued?) to the bottom of the reflector and I didn’t put any in, I was trying to measure how thick of an o-ring I needed and the sharp legs of the optic dedomed it. It took away some phosphorus so now I have a sick purple beam that looks something like UV.
So soon I will order an XP-L2 V5 4000k to replace it. The 5350-5700K was a bit too cool for me anyhow. I’ve read the XP-L2 5000K is a bit cold compared to others and the 4000k has less tint shift.
A few thing differ from the review:
1. Ramping time: about 3 seconds from lowest to highest (and visa-versa) :+1:
2. MCPCB has a smaller silver screw instead of the black one, and the head is smaller than the opening in the board, so the screw wasn’t doing anything! Also the threaded shaft of the screw is too thin so it’s loose in it’s hole!
I may not use a screw with the new MCPCB if the reflector holds it down, otherwise I’ll need to drill a hole in the new board for it and get a larger screw.
Even if it wasn’t tight, the screw will keep the the MCPCB from rotating if the reflector rotates as you tighten it. Still, it would be good if there was no chance of it being shaken loose in the head.
Good point I never thought of that, is that the main function of the screw? Or was it mainly to hold the MCPCB down tight? (because the reflector should do that anyhow?)
So now I’m considering an SST-40 (sliced dome) instead for my SP32A. The current on turbo would be perfect for that, 7.5-8A, what do you guys think?
In one of the SST40 emitter reviews the sliced dome would yield a tint of approx 5000 - 5500 K, and that was for the 7500K, I’ll be using a 6500K so it’s could even be warmer (hopefully not too green though) A dedomed SST40 is said to have a better tint (more uniform) than 2nd generation Cree.
Although I might need to slightly widen the reflector opening as it’s a slightly larger footprint (3.45 x 3.45mm) vs (5.0 x 5.0mm)
I really appreciate the mod ideas presented in this post! I have a working SP32A and it's great so I bought another one. This time I ran into a bad driver so I bought replacement drivers. Now, the only problem is I can't loosen the driver retaining ring because it's glued! Opf!
I heated the head with my soldering iron... didn't work. Then froze it for a few days to try cracking the glue. The brass is soft so other than my needle nose pliers, what can I use to get this out? If it's a no go, I have two drivers to offer someone! Help :/
Hum, have you tried bow opening pliers? With some force it may help you!
If the driver is already damaged, it won’t hurt, you’ll just have to look the brass ring !!
Heat usually works best to get the glue going.
And don’t be shy with the butane torch.
Unless there are plastic optics in a head, you can heat the outside to some 150°C with no problems.
But, you need to have the tools to screw it open with enough force and without damaging too.
I was thinking about removing the LED, reflector & lens and then 'drill out' (destroy) the driver. I'd then use some curved needle nose pliers to get a better grip on the ring. Wondering if an S2 retaining ring would be a back up part if I ruin the original(?). I think it's time to go buy a torch and bow pliers.
I can’t remember exactly, but I guess the S2 ring is not compatible with the Sofirn tube! You do have some rings on Kaidomain store (or its similar store on AliExpress, just search by brass ring flashlight!)
Still, before trying to destroy, apply some heat and with the pliers, try to twist the ring “tout de suite”
BTW, check if the ring is clockwise or counter-clockwise! I can’t remember and I don’t have the Sofirn with me!
Maybe combining both methods/tools is the best solution
Let us know when you get it out! :+1:
I can’t remember exactly, but I guess the S2 ring is not compatible with the Sofirn tube! You do have some rings on Kaidomain store (or its similar store on AliExpress, just search by brass ring flashlight!)
Still, before trying to destroy, apply some heat and with the pliers, try to twist the ring “tout de suite”
BTW, check if the ring is clockwise or counter-clockwise! I can’t remember and I don’t have the Sofirn with me!
Maybe combining both methods/tools is the best solution
Let us know when you get it out! :+1:
