Thrunite TC20 - XHP70 - 3800lm

Dale, I measure light drop (I see it also) on turbo without any DMM connected.
Just tested with 30Q cell, drops too, so cell excluded.
It is not go from turbo to lower mode, just dims.
Mike

I bought two LEDs from Simon and I was satisfied so I can buy something from him again.

Mike, maybe you should talk to Thrunite about it and see if they will replace it. Sounds squirrelly to me…

Well, I could not stand it :), but too much of this bile.
I decided to check what the scalping of the diode is giving.
The plate is thick 2mm, copper and really solid. Diode like a diode. The paste is not evenly applied, and the centering diode is probably cut by the child.

First, I cleaned the edges and lightly cut them. Of course, it did not give anything, as the crown was yellow, it still is. The next step is total scalping. Effect? Hmmm suck. So it flew the color temperature from 4959K to 4154K.

Of course, the crown is still yellow, generally everything is yellow now. Concentration increased as one could expect, but not terribly. I do not like the end result so I ordered a new diode from Fasttech N4-3A and we’ll see what it will be like. This is my favorite shade, 3A, but what about the crown? We will find out about it in a month :). I was looking for the LED CRI90 or M4 or M2, but nobody has it (5000K).

The 70.2 is a flip-chip technology emitter, meaning the connections are on the bottom of the chip, no bond wires. As such you can clear more of that phosphor away, right up to the edge of the die itself, and this clears up a lot of the yellow aura. Also helps to tighten the hot spot.

I bought a scalpel and a lot of blades for it, have found that if I hone and polish the scalpel blade and use a bit of silicone grease on it the resulting slice across the die face to remove the dome is nice and smooth…. it takes a single stroke slice action, not a push but a slice across in a continuous motion, this nets the smoothest cut for me and the result is a nicer beam profile. YMMV

Here’s a 50.2 in a little copper X5…

Hmmmm a square MCPCB? mine is round on the one I have.

EDIT: komeko , Am I missing something or is that really the centering piece that came in your TC20? Mine has a perfect round one like it should that came in the light.

Here is the LED in my TC20 as Dale mentioned in his post above after I sliced and diced it…………

And here is what the beam looks like at 20 feet on medium / High / Turbo ….(Exposure cut back a little so pictures didn’t wash out)


And here at 100 yards from gate on High and Turbo with normal settings I use on all my beamshots…….

This or the Rofis… This or the Rofis… or this or the Astrolux MF-01… (they’re all close to the same price)

So, if ya’ll had ~$75 to spend on 1 light, what would ya’ll get?

The TLC forum has already reported that the first versions had a round tile and the newer ones have a square one. Picture from that forum:

Further shaving of the diode will not do anything, it will blow yellow and that’s it. I am waiting for a new diode 3A and then we will see how it will be.
At this point, all my flashlights have the same color as in the chart:

Everything under the BBL line is cool. H03 has a very delicate bile symptom, so small that it practically can not be seen.
I’ll see what I can do to make TC20 like it too :slight_smile: Maybe the N4-3A diode will be what I need.

robo819, and you shaved CW or NW?
Mine was NW. Maybe CW is better after shaving.

Not shave the emitter more , but get right to the very edge of the die itself and get all of the yellow off the edges of the substrate, that is where the biggest part of the yellow comes from. Mine was a yucky mustard yellow almost when I sliced the dome only , but then the tint changes considerably when the extra yellow is taken off the edges around the main die.

I just used an Exacto blade and cut straight down on all sides of the die to the substrate and then gently used the back of the Exacto blade to remove the excess phosphor around the edges , being very careful not to hit the phosphor on the die itself.

Mine is / was cool and yes the cool is much better for shaving or dedoming as a neutral will end up too warm most of the time

Rofis does not have NW, it’s just cold white and I do not like it. Of the two, I would choose MF-01 but UI is bad so I would probably change the driver on NasilM

I wait for those too :slight_smile:
Mike

Isn't a square one less efficient because of less mass? Just wondering if Thrunite was cheaping out on the new batch.

It is not less efficient. What counts is the rate of heat dissipation on the casing, and this ensures copper and good contact (paste and pressure). The surface itself no longer matters, especially such a size difference.

komeko, thanks for the explanation

Call it like you see it I guess, I sure wouldn’t power up a 70.2 on that square MCPCB. The larger round MCPCB makes more surface contact with the host body, I usually recut the emitter shelf on an L6 so it can take a 26mm MaxToch MCPCB for example, then push it to 20A or more for in excess of 9,000 lumens. Depends on how far you’re taking it of course, but I like to use maximum contact surfaces… go big or go home. :wink:

That's why I asked the question as it did not make sense in my mind to make it square, thanks DB!

OK, I have not followed thread recently. But I see a lot of MODS that were done to improve light? I will order the TC20 CW version. What should be done for better throw, tint color, spill? OR leave as is. Anyone on here with keen knowledge or do MODS for small fee? Please advise. Thanks.

Any tips on getting the bezel off? Does it just screw off with enough force?