yeah I feel the same here. even though I’m a new member people help me voluntarily with nothing to gain. and it’s especially helpful for a newbie like me who’s worried things go wrong when yall guide me. Thank you.
update: I’ve contacted banggood about it, but they have not responded. most likely it’s a non issue, since I cycled it thrice and nothing has changed. but I’m using protected cells as the new unprotected haven’t arrived.
I’ve also bought another q8 as a spare, as I felt it’s a really good light even with this “defect”, and also since the banggood coupon code might expire soon. Hope that one is ok!
I don’t think you are supposed to post that code openly. You need to go to M4D M4X’s website to get the code, and for him to get his commission. (I think)
I posted a while back about a dead green indicator LED that was unable to be fixed with soldering. Does anyone have any email addresses or usernames of people I could try to contact to get a replacement assembly?
Update: I wiped the led as instructed and the “bubble” is gone. Seems like it is just a speck of dirt. Don’t know why it seemed so much like it was inside the dome initially.
On a side note, I accidentally wiped off some of the thermal paste (TIM) while removing the reflector. I used some of my CPU thermal paste (cooler master ic essential E2). Is this fine or do y’all have a preference for thermal paste for flashlights?
^ although there is much heat to be transfered, the contact surface of the ledboard is large so the thermal paste should not be critical, as long as you keep the layer thin.
So I’ve bought four Samsung 30Qs, and I’m underwhelmed at the Q8 light output compared to two and even one regular 5A Sanyo batteries that I’ve been running the light with previously. To be precise, I don’t see a difference between 2xSanyo and 4xSamsung 30Q. All fresh out of charger, of course. Also, I don’t see a difference between 4x30Q and 3x30Q. Should I be able to see it? I know naked eye is very poor at spotting small-ish differences, especially when comparing sequentially and not side by side.
And a related question. As I ramp up the Q8’s output, at some moment just before the max brightness is achieved, it blinks shortly. Is it when it switches to direct drive? I don’t see a difference between the flat-out max mode, and the closest ramp-down mode (just before the light blinks). Do you guys see any difference there as you ramp your Q8 up?
You probably won’t see a difference in brightness between 2, 3, or 4 cells. You should definitely notice a difference at 1 cell, when it will only be about half as bright at maximum.
This is a bright light, at over 5,000 lumens, but don’t expect a blinding light. It’s equivalent to about 3 or 4 100 watt light bulbs. So, a fairly bright room.
The light blinks when it finishes the ramp to maximum. You won’t see anything when it switches from the linear driver to the direct drive, which occurs much closer to the low-end of the range. You can tell when you release the switch, though. If the switch blinks once, it’s using only the 7135 linear driver. If it blinks twice, it’s using the FET direct drive.
