17,001
(atm)
.
It āwasā at one time maybeā¦ā¦
17000
(atm)
.
y no juego mƔs
.
Nice to see you still have your sense of humor g_sintornillos.
I posted a while back about a dead green indicator LED that was unable to be fixed with soldering. Does anyone have any email addresses or usernames of people I could try to contact to get a replacement assembly?
Try it again with the old mail address. Now Chinese New year is over
Update: I wiped the led as instructed and the ābubbleā is gone. Seems like it is just a speck of dirt. Donāt know why it seemed so much like it was inside the dome initially.
On a side note, I accidentally wiped off some of the thermal paste (TIM) while removing the reflector. I used some of my CPU thermal paste (cooler master ic essential E2). Is this fine or do yāall have a preference for thermal paste for flashlights?
thanks for the help everyone
^ although there is much heat to be transfered, the contact surface of the ledboard is large so the thermal paste should not be critical, as long as you keep the layer thin.
So Iāve bought four Samsung 30Qs, and Iām underwhelmed at the Q8 light output compared to two and even one regular 5A Sanyo batteries that Iāve been running the light with previously. To be precise, I donāt see a difference between 2xSanyo and 4xSamsung 30Q. All fresh out of charger, of course. Also, I donāt see a difference between 4x30Q and 3x30Q. Should I be able to see it? I know naked eye is very poor at spotting small-ish differences, especially when comparing sequentially and not side by side.
And a related question. As I ramp up the Q8ās output, at some moment just before the max brightness is achieved, it blinks shortly. Is it when it switches to direct drive? I donāt see a difference between the flat-out max mode, and the closest ramp-down mode (just before the light blinks). Do you guys see any difference there as you ramp your Q8 up?
You probably wonāt see a difference in brightness between 2, 3, or 4 cells. You should definitely notice a difference at 1 cell, when it will only be about half as bright at maximum.
This is a bright light, at over 5,000 lumens, but donāt expect a blinding light. Itās equivalent to about 3 or 4 100 watt light bulbs. So, a fairly bright room.
The light blinks when it finishes the ramp to maximum. You wonāt see anything when it switches from the linear driver to the direct drive, which occurs much closer to the low-end of the range. You can tell when you release the switch, though. If the switch blinks once, itās using only the 7135 linear driver. If it blinks twice, itās using the FET direct drive.
17,000. Arenāt we going the wrong direction here?
Didnāt torture a single cell. Meh, I was lead to believe the number of cells does have an impact on the absolute max brightness, as does the type of cells (regular vs. high current). Thanks for clearing that up for me.
You mean incandescent lights? Makes sense, with about 10x efficiency for LEDs vs. bulbs and considering that each LED in Q8 is well over 10 W.
So the linear modes are PWM free, and direct drive modes are PWM?
They do, but your eyes are not that good at measuring it. The difference between 5k and 6k lumen is hard for human eyeballs to see especially when you have to take a break to change out the batteries. You have to remember what the first brightness level was as your looking at the second brightness level.
A lux meter would definitely see the differences as would an amp meter measuring the current.
Iām talking high-drain only. If you try 2 vs 4 regular cells, you probably will see a difference. Thereās also a difference between 4 regular and 4 high-drain cells, though you probably wonāt be able to tell with your eye between battery changes.
Also, the battery voltage makes a huge difference. Youāll only get full output if your cells are fully charged to 4.2v.
IIRC, PWM is used for all modes, unless youāre right at the output max for the 7135 or FET. Itās very high frequency, so you wonāt be able to see it. Perhaps you might notice on moonlight, but thatās probably the only mode.
Gotcha, thanks. Yes, I understand how difficult it could be spotting a difference in light intensity with a naked eye, definitely could use a lux meter.
Just a quick questionā¦ Are your 30Qās button top or have they been solder boobed??
If not, that could well be part of your problem. Not all the batteries making contact at the positive (+) end.