Lexel sent me a pair of these nice stuff too… I just made some dirty hack for one of my Convoy C8 (factory tailcap + cheap remote switch from china + this nice FET switch), it works like a charm 
absolutely no light loss, in fact with this FET remote I measured a little bit better values than with the factory tailcap!
Nice work Lexel and thank you again!
ps.: I will recommend it to my hunter friends 
I’d like 1 board with switch please. Looks great! (pm sent)
What happens when one actually presses the switch? Momentary on or constant on?
Have you thought about making a version with clicky switch to replace normal switches in high-current lights?
The build is 1:1 as you switch the FETs gate it is conductive
The main thing besides a normal clicky is that most lights tail caps wont allow the added thickness of the battery holder with the switch above it to twist in the retaining ring
I have two boards and have built/tested one of them. Constant on.
I did have to file down the open end of the black plastic insert (that the wire goes through) so the board would be deep enough to allow the retaining ring/screw to crank down on the board properly. I also used some shrink tubing at the wire’s connecting end to the board (and a 16g small wire crimp around it) for strain relief. When I build #2 up I’ll take some pics and post here.
Sent in request for one complete setup.
I’ll plan on taking some photos as well.
~Daniel
So I’m finally getting around to look at this closely, to assemble it with a 6P style of torch.
Which solder points do I use? From Lexel’s photo above, it looks like one of the contacts is right on top of a resistor.
DraferDan…
If you don’t get an answer soon, I’ll go dig out my SPC from the safe (in my COLD garage) and get it for you tonight or tomorrow. I have it on a C8A (Sofirn’s best single emitter C8 sized light IMO), but the final light will be the old 18650 C8F with a direct drive board (no driver) where the only “switching” happens through the FET. There is too much trouble with remembering memory and modes using the C8A driver (which is again a great driver otherwise). I find my main limit is time when it comes to modding these great little lights
I’ll keep an eye out here, but we’ll get it for you if Lexel is out.
-Russ in Kansas
one is the resistor and round pad the other the battery holder and other round pad
you can use very thin wire
(2) switch, cable and plastic cap
(1) 2S buck set to 5 amps
PP sent
Thanks
Couple questions.
What PCB/direct drive board (no driver) did you use? Looking for maximum amp capability.
Has anyone tested the upper limits of what current this switch can handle? I understand the FET is capable but what about the pcb/whole assembly. Given a Beryllium copper spring could it do 30+ amps reliably?
Also, the L2 tailcap has a fairly large cavity. The whole switch assembly, with included spacer, is around 13mm. Could you piggy back a Omten 1288 on top of this and connect the leads to it?
Thanks for any help,
PM sent
It will eventually have some high amps running through it. For now, I wanted to get a spring and switch soldered onto the FET switch and see it shine. Thanks Lexel.
I think I can get the L2 switch to work with a piggybacked Omten 1288 but I need some help with a parts order. . Its a tight fit. Lexel has a 16mm version which would allow it to recces a little further into the retaining ring. Also, he has empty diode pad for possibility for a super capacitor, which might give me another mm. Perhaps just a thinner CR1216 30mAh vs a 48mAh battery? (Haven’t found a holder for it yet) I have a rudimentary knowledge of electronics but the board seems to have a minimal chip count and I’m not sure what to order. I need to get an order placed for a 6X Ledil Anna for an upcoming 6X Luxeon MZ build. The reason I need a high amp capable switch. Would be nice to also get the parts for the 16mm switch (reduce shipping cost)There is the very soon to be released Convoy C8+ 21700,which might share a deep switch pocket as well. Don’t have a C8 on hand to try to fit this but I’ve seen pictures that it is also fairly deep. Lexel posted this as open source so I feel I can share some pictures of the parts on it. Plus, I need a reason to dust off my Olympus BHM. Even included a dark field image (last image) for the fun of it. I would appreciate any help in ordering parts. Please be specific because my knowledge of such small parts is minimal. And ideally from Mouser because that is one of the few places the carry the Ledil Anna that I need. Is there a possibility of using a higher amp capable FET?
See pics below
could you resize the pictures please
And maybe work on better focusing!
Hard to look at those blurry oversized images.
Darnnit - you’re making me want to build a 2-3 level IR rifle light.
… and I’m not setup to do any building.
I so want this for my builds!
Makes me think that with the correct SMD Switch, might be possible to use a daughterboard within the tail of a convoy or whatever.
Not a big problem to make a switch board with no connections on the back
It’s still then a momentary on switch, which can’t be locked in like a forward clicky
Even better! :+1:
Then the last problem is some sort of filler puck or something for the boot. I think.
edit:
nevermind! I just got my hands on some new convoy hosts and saw that the switch boot has a solid rubber “bullet” inside to help push the switch itself!
Lexel, are you off for holiday?
It’s been almost 4 weeks since you have been online!