✌ FREEME - ASTROLUX MF04S (XHP70.2) & MF04 (XHP35 HI) - BRASS@.@

That’s strictly incorrect. What was determined is that it’s a good size to performance tradeoff, not that deepening it doesn’t help.

  1. Deeper reflectors have smaller centre opening and therefore more area, so they throw better. Not much though.
  2. They collect more light into the beam making it wider while narrowing the spill. We’ve seen complaints that the spill is blinding, so that may bring some improvement.

Two of my interventions have been marked as rude. I want to know what the reason is.Truth is rude? Thank you

Hi Tom, do not think too much of getting a few rude marks, ignore them and in a few days you are back to zero . Every time someone writes posts that disagrees with someone else, all of a sudden rude marks appear, I had that happen too. Although in the forum rules it is explained very well what he button is for and explicitly what it is not for, some people misuse the button if they just do not like an opinion. Our administrator in the end decides what to do with posts and people who are marked rude and he will sort out what is really going on. Still the button has proven to be very useful for the administrator in signalling bad behaviour on the forum so he can act upon it, so overal the system works well.

The E4 bin XHP35 that’s been de-domed hasn’t been tested for Lumen output that I can find. But my GT with the de-domed E4 at 2.5 amps and 3amps shows more throw than the other stock GT that I had (before changing it into a Lumen Monster XHP70.2)) with what ever binned LED was in the Stock GT and more throw than the E2-3A HI I had in it at 2.5amps. Nobody else has one like it, so it’s worth it to me, and that’s all that matters :wink: I bet it will smoke your stock GT! :sunglasses:

I think your technically correct.”

The best kind of correct.

:stuck_out_tongue:

This is an example of depth/diameter ratio vs lux and spill angle

Nice!
And where’s GT?

As I’ve read in this forum that the XHP35 HI E2 can easily (provided excellent heat dissipation/transfer) to 3A, I wouldn’t mind a driver that pushes my BLF GT to that level.
At 2,5A this led might do around 140cd/mm2 and at 3A it will do around 170cd/mm2.
That’s quite a difference.

Easy calculation: @ 2,5A - 1.142.000Cd / 140 = 8157*170 = 1.386.714Cd.
244.000Cd improvement? Yes please.
.
Apart from the heat transfer, the driver would need to be top notch and have an accurate heat sensor, dimming the light at a set temperature.
Suggestion: turbo at 3A, high at 2,25A.
.
Cheers
Nico

Close enough to a depth/diameter ration of 1, so going deeper will not help throw, it will make the hotspot wider :THUMBS-UP: , the spill narrower :THUMBS-UP: and the flashlight longer

So well into the diminishing results on intensity, with still small possible improvements to beam width. It would be interesting to also chart light collection into the main beam. I’m sure there are charts somewhere…

The BLF GT driver can do 6A easily (maybe a bit more) with just a resistor swap. So if you want to change it to 3A, you can.

Yep.

A longer reflector will give a tighter hotspot, narrower spill and a larger corona.
Example deep reflector: Thrunite Catapult V2/V6.
Example shallower reflector: Olight M2X.

Cheers
Nico

Tnx, I didn’t know that!
Now all I have to do is get someone with the right skillset to do it for me. “A man’s got to know his limitations”. :wink: :wink:

Grtz
Nico

That is so correct. You cannot describe it better.

Yes that’s correct… the M25C2 Turbo is another perfect example of your description. Kind of usless with a de-domed XP-G2 in it, weak narrow maybe 800lm girly man beam, but put a de-domed SST-40 in it at 8amps….you better like a massive Blue spill. :person_facepalming:

On the lowest level the hot spot is washed out by the camera, this pic shows the corona and spill, the blue is not this intense, a bit exaggerated by the camera, but it still really blue. At this distance the hot spot is about 2.5”

Quote “you better like a massive Blue spill. Facepalm: Unquote

Did you dedome a 6500K or 7500K SST40?

Cheers
Nico

The 6500k, one of 2 out of about 40 SST-40’s that I successfully de-domed. There was alot of experimentation going on too, tried different methods, fluid’s techniques, but still they kicked my ass. I hear even the Master Modder Vinh gave up de-doming the SST-40, just shaves them, I don’t blame him!

It’s actually the only emitter you would want to shift warmer when you de-dome them, but they don’t, not by my eyes. They are still too Blue for me and I’m a CW fanboy! :person_facepalming:

I have 12 of the 7500’s from Kaidomain that I was going to swap out the XML’s in my TR-J20 just to make a BLASTER out of, but I’m so disgusted with the SST-40, the 7500’s just sit. The best I can do with them is just shave them close and polish them. Ive given UP! :smiley:

Still shaved and polished they work very well, home made HI if you will. Same with the XHP35HD E4 bin, if you don’t want to take the chance a fudging up or the time to totally de-dome them, why settle for an E2 make your own E4-HI.

Interested depending on the price.

Tnx for the tip, that will save me a lot of frustatrion. :+1:
I guess its shaving and polishing then.
My skills are not up to it but luckily I now someone from the German forum that is an expert and is willing to help me out :+1: :+1: :+1:

And I promise I won’t go any further with this off-topic issue…… :wink:

Cheers
Nico

Prototype is almost ready!