D4 Titanium!!!

[g_damian]

Equipment for firmware refresh is a few bucks only, you could try to upgrade them

[djozz]

I got my Emisar D4 ti in, and I love it.

Also because of the 5000K 90CRI 219C which is new to me and has a great neutral tint and works very well with the optic, the new board with rotated pads help a lot too.

The 18350 tube is not finished as well as the rest of the light, rough grey-ish instead of shiny silver, and also leaves a tiny gap when screwed in the head, but I can’t be bothered, I decided against shelf-queen, this light is going into the EDC rotation.

[Gunga]

Darn it. I held out as long as I could. Your post put me over. Purchased!

[djozz]

I’m sorry that I did that to you Gunga, but with a bit of luck you experience what happened to me: what I expected is exactly what I got, and still it took me by surprise how nice it is.

[Gunga]

Finally got it after 5 weeks! Geez, this thing is heavy! If I didn’t know any better I would have thought it was stainless steel or something.

Overall nice though. Just more of a tank than expected.

Not super practical but I like it. I wanted the ti for the bling, the body knurling, and the bare metal.

[Blackbeard]

[M4D_M4X]

EMISAR D4Ti from $59.99

[Firelight2]

@Gunga

Finally got it after 5 weeks! Geez, this thing is heavy! If I didn’t know any better I would have thought it was stainless steel or something.

Overall nice though. Just more of a tank than expected.

Not super practical but I like it. I wanted the ti for the bling, the body knurling, and the bare metal.

About matches my opinion. Gorgeous light. Durable. SUPER-heavy. If I have it in a pocket I really feel it bouncing against my thigh. Not comfortable at all due to the weight.

Too bad the threads aren’t compatible with the aluminum version. I’d have loved to use the titanium tube with an aluminum head for less weight.

Also, I wish they came out with an aluminum tube with the square body knurling. Having knurling on the body is great, but its only available on the titanium version.

[deleted-200707]

Danm! I just got the raw, with NW - XP-L HI V2 3A, 5000K, and titanium 18350 tube for what the base model went for before ($80)
She surely can’t blame me…right?

[eas]

She can’t blame you if she doesn’t find out. Not that I’d advocate lying about it. But really, there are so many things to worry about, $21 doesn’t really rate, does it?

[deleted-200707]

actually I saw the sale on another thread and jumped on it. :money_mouth_face:

(fyi the 25% off applies to the accessories also)

[JakeDjanitor]

@chinooker

actually I saw the sale on another thread and jumped on it. :money_mouth_face:

(fyi the 25% off applies to the accessories also)

Is this sale still going on?

[shirnask]

Yes, sale is still on. I broke down and bought one :person_facepalming:

[shirnask]

Ordered one from Hank on 5/16 and it arrived today. Fast!

[funkychateau]

@JakeDjanitor

I personally want one, I want the natural titanium one. But the cost is out of my range.
I don’t mind losing a couple hundred lumens to have the titanium. But the increase in cost is just to substantial…
I can buy an armytek or other larger name brand that is built to swim with and handle the recoil on a .12 gauge for this price.

Jake,

I just bought the natural titanium D4 with the accessory 18350 tube and nichia emitters. It was an impulse buy, and I’ve decided I wanted the XPL Hi emitters instead. So I’m re-ordering the light in that emitter configuration, and I will be selling this one at a discount as soon as I return home and take some pictures (I’m currently on travel). It has never been carried, never dropped, and probably has only about 10 or 20 minutes of total play time on it. I’m still on the first battery charge.

I don’t know whether the Ti version loses “a couple hundred lumens” over the standard version, but I can say that this thing seems to put out three or four times as much light as my Zebralight SC600, which was until now the brightest I owned. The hot spot intensity seems similar, but the D4 is more like a hot “zone”, much much larger.

This is also the most attractive and best-machined flashlight I have ever owned. It’s like a piece of jewelry. I know I’ll wind up carrying the D4 instead of my SC600, because it’s smaller yet more powerful, but probably not until I find a protective pouch to fit it.

best regards,

Martin

[funkychateau]

@Nav88

You can gain a rudimentary understanding of how natural convection and radiation contribute to overall heat transfer by looking at the well-understood model for a horizontal cylinder suspended in a fluid. This doesn’t account for the addition of conduction into the hand and the lost surface area for convection, nor for any type of forced convection (e.g. wind) but it’s a reasonable starting point.

Here is a calculator that will determine the total heat transfer, split between natural convection and radiation, for such a case: Maya HTT - Thermal Wizard

I entered the approximate dimensions of the D4 in meters (.094 L x .024 D) and the approximate emissivity for anodized aluminum (0.8 - quite good!). At an ambient temperature of 20°C and cylinder surface temperature of 50°C (about as hot as you can hold continuously), the D4 can only get rid of about 2.5W. That’s 1.4W by convection and 1.1W by radiation.

At an emissivity of 0.2, which seems to be closer to the value for machined titanium, the total heat transfer drops to only 1.7W, with the same 1.4W from convection and only 0.3W from radiation.

It’s worth pointing out that these rates of heat transfer are at steady-state when the heat generation is equal to the heat dissipation and temperatures are constant throughout the system. It’s obvious that the D4, even with the good emissivity of anodized aluminum, just does not have the surface area to dissipate anywhere near the amount of heat it generates at full power. In theory, thermal regulation should settle on a power level that results in 2.5W of heat generation in the aluminum D4 and 1.4W in the titanium.

More practical questions like how long a light can run before stepping down require more complicated models that look at how temperatures change over time on their way to steady-state, and do factor in the thermal conductivity of the material (notice how that doesn’t matter in a steady-state analysis).

Nav, when I look closely at my light shining on an even surface, I think I can detect the first stepdown at about 15 seconds of operation. The change is small, though. I never tried for more stepdown because the head was as hot as I wanted it to get. I’m fine with that factory setting, as I doubt I’d ever run full power longer than 5 or 10 seconds anyway.

best regards,

Martin

[DB_Custom (Dale)]

Being a Titanium fanatic and a bit of a copper freak, I had to get one of these. And of course, I had to mod it. I have Anduril in it with 20ga leads, bypassed driver spring and a copper button in place of the tail spring. Also swapped in the new Samsung LH351D emitters at 5000K 80 CRI. These fit under the optic quite nicely. Also adapted the Noctigon quad board so it could be screwed down, mine wasn’t and had no screws at all but that is remedied now.

I put the knurled 18650 Ti tube on my black D1s, will keep the 18350 short tube on this D4Ti. On a dark purple Efest 18350 it makes a whopping 4067 lumens and the color is splendid! Floody wall of gorgeous light, a nice match for the Ti/Cu beauty.

With the 18650 tube on the D4Ti and a Sony VTC5A in the tube it is capable of 5500+ lumens. It is also capable of burning the fingers in a matter of seconds. Needless to say, it will stay in short tube configuration.

I like the fact that the Ti tube blankets the Li-ion cell, protecting it from excessive heat. The aluminum version allows the cell to get way too hot for my comfort. (My aluminum D4 is green, shorty, with XP-E2 green emitters. Yeah, it makes serious heat!)

Nice work Hank, love it! :heart_eyes:

Edit: Oh, by the way, the parts on my green aluminum D4 and D4Ti interchange with zero issues.

[funkychateau]

@DB Custom

Being a Titanium fanatic and a bit of a copper freak, I had to get one of these. And of course, I had to mod it. I have Anduril in it with 20ga leads, bypassed driver spring and a copper button in place of the tail spring. Also swapped in the new Samsung LH351D emitters at 5000K 80 CRI. These fit under the optic quite nicely. Also adapted the Noctigon quad board so it could be screwed down, mine wasn’t and had no screws at all but that is remedied now.

I put the knurled 18650 Ti tube on my black D1s, will keep the 18350 short tube on this D4Ti. On a dark purple Efest 18350 it makes a whopping 4067 lumens and the color is splendid! Floody wall of gorgeous light, a nice match for the Ti/Cu beauty.

With the 18650 tube on the D4Ti and a Sony VTC5A in the tube it is capable of 5500+ lumens. It is also capable of burning the fingers in a matter of seconds. Needless to say, it will stay in short tube configuration.

I like the fact that the Ti tube blankets the Li-ion cell, protecting it from excessive heat. The aluminum version allows the cell to get way too hot for my comfort. (My aluminum D4 is green, shorty, with XP-E2 green emitters. Yeah, it makes serious heat!)

Nice work Hank, love it! :heart_eyes:

Edit: Oh, by the way, the parts on my green aluminum D4 and D4Ti interchange with zero issues.

Dale,

I’m curious - since you have obviously taken this flashlight apart many times, can you confirm that it actually does have a glass lens over the plastic focusing optic? Reviews and specs all seem to say it does, but when I looked at the one I just bought I couldn’t tell. Sort of looked like the bare plastic surface.

best regards,

Martin

[SKV89]

@DB Custom

Being a Titanium fanatic and a bit of a copper freak, I had to get one of these. And of course, I had to mod it. I have Anduril in it with 20ga leads, bypassed driver spring and a copper button in place of the tail spring. Also swapped in the new Samsung LH351D emitters at 5000K 80 CRI. These fit under the optic quite nicely. Also adapted the Noctigon quad board so it could be screwed down, mine wasn’t and had no screws at all but that is remedied now.

I put the knurled 18650 Ti tube on my black D1s, will keep the 18350 short tube on this D4Ti. On a dark purple Efest 18350 it makes a whopping 4067 lumens and the color is splendid! Floody wall of gorgeous light, a nice match for the Ti/Cu beauty.

With the 18650 tube on the D4Ti and a Sony VTC5A in the tube it is capable of 5500+ lumens. It is also capable of burning the fingers in a matter of seconds. Needless to say, it will stay in short tube configuration.

I like the fact that the Ti tube blankets the Li-ion cell, protecting it from excessive heat. The aluminum version allows the cell to get way too hot for my comfort. (My aluminum D4 is green, shorty, with XP-E2 green emitters. Yeah, it makes serious heat!)

Nice work Hank, love it! :heart_eyes:

Edit: Oh, by the way, the parts on my green aluminum D4 and D4Ti interchange with zero issues.

The three non Ti D4 that I have come with screwed on noctigon mcpcb. I’m surprised the Ti version did not come screwed down. 5500+ lumens in that little thing is insane.

[DB_Custom (Dale)]

AR coated glass lens, yes.

There were threaded screw holes in my D4Ti, just no screws. When I tried to put a pair of screws in it they shorted the MCPCB on the negative trace and the light was constant on. I used a diamond dremel tool in a small table top drill press to cut the trace away at the screw holes and now it works fine with it screwed down.

It must have been intended that the screws were left out of mine as the optic had all 4 legs intact. I snipped off two legs right at the point they would sit on the screws and all is well.