Thanks again! I’ve updated my list and script so it can find these two, and more generally so that it can match names which are longer than what BLF displays in the post header.
Agreed. I will take whatever comes for $30, but my real preference is the original raw finish, showing precision manufacture. Ideally with true deep HA3 mil spec ano, greenish but un-dyed, but that could cost. Bead blast and cheap (edit) clear or dyed ano. not my thing, covers up a multitude of sins and is weak, easily scratched, best taken off and polished to bare alloy. It’s what many are used to, but the real deal is quite different.
The taper on the head looks good to me, comfortable, and maybe adds a tiny bit of extra thermal mass.
I withdraw my doubts about the thin-walled co-ax tubes (assuming a decent strong heat-treated alloy is specified), tail e-switch etc. these are what makes it special and unique. Well done Fritz. And the team.
I like the bead blasted version better.
You get also a better anodisation. Without, the ano tend to chip off on sharp edges. Blasting remove burrs and rounds edges a bit. It covers also scratches.
A skilled machinist deburrs his stuff. With the automated machining stations and no blasting we maybe get sharp edges?
However the FW3A has a clear ano you wil see a worn ano barely.
It will probably take a while to be able to do that mate! The project has not fully advanced, some details are still to decide! Let’s cross the fingers
@ FW3A Team, I sent “you” a PM
Will be looking for your reply whenever it is possible!! Thanks in advance!! :sunglasses:
