Sofirn C8F host. 21700 C8F Available

I’m in between 21700 and 26650. The verdict: I’d be happy with 26650 but even happier with 21700. Please redesign the head to get rid of the typical C8 cutouts and add more fins.

I still like the venerable F13. It feels good, is nicely balanced, has quite good throw, is nice and “finny” for good heat dissipation, and while the usual come-with driver/UI and emitter are generally crap, it mods very well into a good solid kick-ass light.

If Sofirn would put their stank on it, it should be a really nice F13 reboot.

1 for the 26650. I’d buy me a few of them hosts in no time.+ for a quad design but that’s not what they are asking.

Either 26650 or 21700 would be welcome.

+1 for the 26650

count me in :slight_smile:

That c8-x looks like a sausage. See my thread on the EC21 to see what a 21700 tube looks like. Its not quite c8 diameter but super close

I’m not into lights with mechanical switches like C8, but I’d like to comment nevertheless…

  1. I’m very impressed with what Sofirn does to their C8 line. This discussion adds to that.
  2. What cell would be better for this light?
  • 21700 will feel in the hand just as good as 26650. It will feel better in the mouth. Not that it’s the way most use their C8 lights…
  • 21700 will weigh significantly less
  • The capacity advantage of 26650 is about 20%. Though the highest capacity 26650 cell offers smaller IR than the highest capacity 21700 on the market. It is expected that 21700 will progress faster than 26650, so the advantage of the larger format is more likely to shrink than to grow.
  • There are cheap and OK 26650 cells available. 21700s tend to cost more.
  • At the moment it seems that 26650 are supported by more chargers, though I wouldn’t be surprised to see that to reverse in the coming years.

To me it hints that both choices are good, but personally I’m more into 21700 lights.

I’m a little confused, are you talking about the older, regular C8 designs that only used a mechanical tail switch?

This thread is mainly about the Sofirn version which has no mechanical tail switch, it only has the side mounted e-switch.

I’m talking about both.
In dual switch lights, I find mechanical switch to serve no purpose other than that of mechanical lockout. I consider them way too bulky for the value they provide.

I would like to see a 26650 version.
Please make sure the Liitokala 26650 will fit as they are some of the larger diameter cells.

Ain’t THAT the truth! No easy modding with this light, can’t just pop off the MCPCB.

I have six C8F hosts with two built so far. They take time and are not an easy build like my C8(s) host (also from Sofirn) which was a breeze to build in comparison.

The C8F builds are THICK and heavy in the head when compared to other C8s. So I’d like to also see more internal milling in the head area to lighten it up (and make room for the LED wires to get through to the MCPCB side without my having to re-drill them from the driver side myself). Then a larger battery tube for a 21700 or 26650 sounds like a GREAT IDEA. :+1: Maybe even go to a 20-21mm driver while they are at it? (like they DID as an option for the C8(s) host they make).

I am finding shaved leds (or XLP HIs) are the best fit for my C8Fs and I wonder why there are not standard in the factory made C8F. With standard XP-L2s (V5s), this light is VERY bright but doesn’t throw as good as it can (I’m using Lexel’s TA NarsilD driver, BTW). My C8A (factory build by Sorfirn) using the same XP-L2 led out-throws my first C8F build (with three of these same leds in it). So the triple reflector being cool and all, still can’t get much throw without using an LED made for the job.

Shaving my XP-L2s helped on my second build and now the throw is better… BUT I am looking forward to finalizing my XPL-HI build in a few weeks— THEN I’ll know. So I might have to go back to my first build and shave the stock XP-L2s down now— again painful (so I may just gift it instead).

Anyway, the C8F IS a great light… ONCE it’s built :stuck_out_tongue: And there is some potential for a larger battery version with tweaks too.

I just sent a message to Sofirn about this conversation :wink:
Highlighted the most important things. If 26650 chosen fit Liitokalas. I sent the size of my black liitokala 26650-s. More fins on head, 17 or 20mm driver diameter because those are common.
Stay with switch on separate pcb.
Start sale with complete light and also as a host.

/\ . :+1:

It’s kind of funny how a bunch of folks can go through the exact same process and come out with completely different opinions in the end. I’ve built three or four of these lights using various emitters and I find them to be the most pleasant host I’ve ever worked with. The part that makes them so pleasant is that the MCPCB screws right to the the reflector and then into the host, making it nearly impossible to bung up the emitters or finger print the reflector while trying to get the lens and bezel on. Regardless, love the 18650 version but at the amp draws we can realize with these hosts a larger capacity cell certainly has advantages. I think it could look a bit nicer with a larger tube as well.

Brian

I guess we all have that certain angle that works on their bench with certain projects— but IF you have to adjust the driver at all, the internal LED holes (on my first two kits anyway) were a MOTHER to get wires to run back and forth through. My THIRD C8F host I got into yesterday HAS smooth edges in there (there were not razor sharp burs like my first two kits).

So I’m sure a “batch” got made up and the tech on the lathe missed the inside clean-up on a few kits (mentioned here on BLF this last 4-6 weeks anyway). I got some of both and I’m guessing KYFishGuy’s kits were done completely. After I reamed my head on my first kits- they were much easier to work on indeed. :+1:

I talked with Tracy Wan last night and asked if Sofirn had tried an XPL-HI in the C8F and he said they had not. He asked for the results when I get them. I didn’t go into larger batteries though but I am sure Sofirn is watching here (“Hi Tracy”) :beer:

I’ve tried. I have an impression that many people have.

Yep, XP-L, XP-L HI and Nichia 219C emitters all work great in that reflector with no adjustment needed!

After thinking about this a bit more I dont think simply changing the battery tube is enough to sell me personally unless they make at least some other change.

I would want the driver area bored out to at least 20mm and potentially a change to the way it is assembled would be nice.

I am hopeful shaved XPLs (I bought from Arrow) will get the throw just a bit further out there than my current set of (also shaved) XP-L2s. I also bought a set of XPL-HIs from KD which I should have in about a week to also check out. The shaved XP-L2s are impressive as they are but from all I’ve read re. XPL Vs. XP-L2s (when over driven), these older XPL leds will be hitting their “sweet spots” with what I can get through this host current wise.

Lexel’s TA NarsilDs run about $15 each (I have four) and so with emitter cost at $3 each (XPL or XP-L2), and host for $12 (plus a few springs, wire, etc.)— this is a heck of a custom light for about $37 bucks!!! I paid a bit over $5 each for KD’s XPL-HIs so add another $6 to that build. Just saying that for the investment— these are GREAT the way they are.

But this is BLF, so I’ll find out what works best for me with SIX hosts now in the hand. :wink: I ALSO will be building a direct drive C8F on one of the host kits. That will be the final gun version (dedicated to ONLY gun use and triggered by Lexel’s “lossless” pressure “FET tail switch”). With a tail spring bi-pass, and the usual tweaks, I’m hoping to run about 18 amps through three (probably XLP HIs) straight off the battery. :smiling_imp:

What I’d want change wise?: SAME 1” battery tube, a boost driver (probably 20mm), larger battery, and XHP-35 HI (or shaved XHP50.2 for tweakers like me) that would pull about 15 amps, and run the larger leds without over-driving them. 4500 - 5500 lumen maybe?

The rate you are dreaming you might not even need to load the gun. Put the pressure switch right on the trigger