Q8 modding

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ecobalans
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no modding for me.

I wanted to do a spring bypas. First investigated the screws. The head srews are ok, but the tail pcb screws, one of them has a bad notch(? ), (there were the screwdriver goes in) so i can’t open this screw. I have no solution, mabey one of you got an option?

contactcr
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ecobalans wrote:
no modding for me.

I wanted to do a spring bypas. First investigated the screws. The head srews are ok, but the tail pcb screws, one of them has a bad notch(? ), (there were the screwdriver goes in) so i can’t open this screw. I have no solution, mabey one of you got an option?

Here are ways to remove a stripped screw:

https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/How+to+Remove+a+Stripped+Screw/13213

ecobalans
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contactcr wrote:
ecobalans wrote:
no modding for me.

I wanted to do a spring bypas. First investigated the screws. The head srews are ok, but the tail pcb screws, one of them has a bad notch(? ), (there were the screwdriver goes in) so i can’t open this screw. I have no solution, mabey one of you got an option?

Here are ways to remove a stripped screw:

https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/How+to+Remove+a+Stripped+Screw/13213

Thanks, i’m going to need dremel for this

contactcr
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Before you do that I would recommend ordering some replacements of higher quality and less resistance so that way at least you have a working light until those come in. Also, you will have a few hundred more lumens with the replacements since you plan on bypassing anyway.

ecobalans
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thanks

ryukin2000
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Received my first Q8 last week. Overall Build was great. Tail end-Screws for the PCB board were not stripped. the holes were already chamfered. Head end-screws for the driver looked fine. the holes in the driver looked bigger than threaded holes so i didn’t have to oversize them. it was oily on the other side. just gave it a wipe. the annodization on the threads on the tube and head were thin and some spots worn out. it was a little gritty as well. that is the only negative about the entire light. Cleaned and re lubed. nice and smooth now. Love the ramping UI. The only mod i have done is the tail spring bypass. Would love to have TK’s UI with Lightning/candle mode. not interested in buying parts for flashing as i am not a avid modder.
long shot but anyone happen to live in Calgary, Alberta that flashes lights?

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2Grumpy
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Could you help me mod my BLF Q8 to Oslon Black Flat leds?

Can the stock driver be modded to run the Oslon Black at highest safe overdrive current?

What would have to be done to the stock driver if it can be modded?

Is their a led board that will work with the correct placement of the leds?

Is their small enough led board that I could use 4 of them correctly located?

Can I just use Artic Alumina to isolate the driver from the host?

Also might have to isolate the reflector from the led board?\

Any help greatly appreciated.

kiriba-ru
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Yes
No
No
No
Probably yes, but see line 7
No
Yes and it will be hard with separate boards
Sorry I cant quote so much from mobile.

Wieselflinkpro
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You can use this MCPCB, its isolated from the center pad of the black flat: https://led4power.com/product/mosled-extreme-mosx-ceramic-insulation-osr...
In the Q8 should fit 4 16mm MCPCBs, so you have to cut the mosleds a bit to fit.
Than it could work with the stock driver.

As I modded my Solarstorm T4 with black flat, I was not aware of the negative center pad and I at the first tries I used it therefore in direct drive (3x Sony VTC5 and 4x Black Flat). They survived.

kiriba-ru
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Q8 reflector is too flat at the bottom. No place for wires.

2Grumpy
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kiriba-ru wrote:
Q8 reflector is too flat at the bottom. No place for wires.

There is a recess in the bottom center of the reflector.

If I take the stock board out and replace with 4 separate ones (if any are small enough) that will leave space between each of the boards that was previously filled by the stock board. It will be very close but I think if I clock each board with the + and – solder points toward the center where the reflector has the relief it might work. Maybe I can cut small flat pieces of copper to extend the + and – contacts to the center recessed area if necessary? Would be much easier if had single board like stock light. Hope I can find a single board that would work.

Flashy Mike
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If necessary you can carefully grind cut outs to the reflector at the bottom, not too difficult with a dremel. I did this with my Q8 Janus (see above).

panagis
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good morning from Greece,

After some hours using my Q8 stock, i did the spring bypass, in a similar way than yours but a little different...

First i decide to do the bypass without effecting the traces of the pcb. So some centimeters good quality silicon wire, some 3.5 mm bronze ends, a little soldering and 20 minutes later i finished it...

 

https://www.flickr.com/photos/152815818@N02/40660718772/in/album-72157693529169974/

 

https://www.flickr.com/photos/152815818@N02/38893082860/in/album-72157693529169974/

 

https://www.flickr.com/photos/152815818@N02/40703503501/in/album-72157693529169974/

 

Then I drilled the existed M 2.5 mm deeper and tap new M3 threads. After some polishing the aluminum surface of the body and the bronze ends, I used M3x10 mm inox torx bolts to make the best possible contact between the pcb and the body...

 

https://www.flickr.com/photos/152815818@N02/40660717992/in/album-72157693529169974/

 

https://www.flickr.com/photos/152815818@N02/38893081130/in/album-72157693529169974/

 

https://www.flickr.com/photos/152815818@N02/40660717282/in/album-72157693529169974/

 

This is how it seems from inside... Very clear and very effective...

 

https://www.flickr.com/photos/152815818@N02/38893085400/in/album-72157693529169974/

 

PS.    Not possible today to post the pictures from flickr... only the links... If anybody can do it, please welcome...

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

g_sintornillos
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panagis wrote:

 


PS.    Not possible today to post the pictures from flickr… only the links… If anybody can do it, please welcome…


 


Use imgur instead of flickr

Sorry for my bad English (gogole transtorla)

djozz
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g_sintornillos wrote:
panagis wrote:

 


PS.    Not possible today to post the pictures from flickr… only the links… If anybody can do it, please welcome…


 


Use imgur instead of flickr

I have used flickr for 6 years now, worked well for me thusfar. In another thread I just posted how I get the correct link for use in BLF (and without sharing your complete photostream), here’s a copy:

I use flickr too and find it cumbersome to get to the correct cyberlink for my pictures. What I do is:

In the browser I go to my photostream (I never got it to work in the flickr-app), select the picture, then click the ‘share’ icon, choose the BBCode and select the picture size you want, click to select the code and then copy and paste it in the address-line of a new browser-tab (this tab is just used to dump the code somewhere), then select and copy the part in the code that starts after ‘[img]’ and ends with ‘jpg’.

On my tablet I can directly select the correct part of the BBCode so I do not need to copy/paste the code in the browser-tab

panagis
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There is no possibility to do it with flickr, so lets imgur it....

 

After some hours using my Q8 stock, i did the spring bypass, in a similar way than the braided bypass but a little better...

First i decide to do the bypass without effecting the traces of the pcb.

So I used few centimeters of good quality tanned silicon wire, four 3.5 mm bronze ends, a little soldering and 20 minutes later i finished it...

 

 

 

 

 

Then I drilled the existed M 2.5 mm deeper and tap new M3 threads. After some polishing the aluminum surface of the body and the bypass bronze ends, I used M3x10 mm inox torx bolts to make the best possible contact between the pcb and the body...

 

 

 

 

 

 

This is how it seems from inside... Very nice and very effective...

 

 

 

MRsDNF
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That is one nice spring bypass panagis. Well done. Beer

 

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djozz wrote:
I use flickr too and find it cumbersome to get to the correct cyberlink for my pictures. What I do is:

In the browser I go to my photostream (I never got it to work in the flickr-app), select the picture, then click the ‘share’ icon, choose the BBCode and select the picture size you want, click to select the code and then copy and paste it in the address-line of a new browser-tab (this tab is just used to dump the code somewhere), then select and copy the part in the code that starts after ‘[img]’ and ends with ‘jpg’.

On my tablet I can directly select the correct part of the BBCode so I do not need to copy/paste the code in the browser-tab

Thumbs Up

It works
It’s a bit more complicated than imgur but it works

Sorry for my bad English (gogole transtorla)

RobertB
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Optech Q8 lens covers if anyone is interested. PK Micro size

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A46PYL0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s...

aginthelaw
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ZoomieFan wrote:
So I replace the standard LEDs with 4 of” these”:http://www.mtnelectronics.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=60_94...?

Best place to buy? I’m in Europe (most of the time)

BTW any discount codes?

Mine has that fried egg look using those

never fear shadows…it means a light shines nearby

komeko
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It irritated me that the tube from the battery is not symmetrical in relation to the head. I decided to change it. I honed the edge of the tube to achieve the right level. Electric contact has improved by the way. This is what Q8 looked like before the amendment:

And so:

Now the symmetry from the beginning to the end is perfectly preserved.

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ImA4Wheelr
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^

The improvement is striking.  Now I'll have to fix mine too.  Thank you for sharing.

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/\/\ . Nicely done. Thumbs Up

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AlexGT
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So how much material from the tube did you remove? I like it and might do the same Beer

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I wouldn’t file the tube, I’d rather use copper wire and adjust its thickness. Hammering thinner, use a file, etc.
When the tube gets off over time you can replace the wire with a new one.

komeko
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AlexGT wrote:
So how much material from the tube did you remove? I like it and might do the same Beer

I collected about 0.5mm so not much.

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komeko
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joechina wrote:
I wouldn’t file the tube, I’d rather use copper wire and adjust its thickness. Hammering thinner, use a file, etc. When the tube gets off over time you can replace the wire with a new one.

For me it is such a makeshift. I prefer more lasting solutions Smile

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dvzzz
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Folks, got my Q8 today and top battery tube o-ring was caught in the threads when they screwed a light head onto the tube and it ruined the o-ring it is cut now. Contacted Thorfire and they told me to go pack sand, they do not stock or sell those o-rings. Banggood asked me canned question for the picture when I already included pciture of the issue, they simply do not even review. With that what o-ring do I need to buy and from where? Much appreciate the help. The price we pay to buy "budget" from budget sources

g_sintornillos
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Now I don’t have a Q8.
I think the one on the lens of C8 works.
Tonight I’m checking it out.

Checked!
It is the same as the C8 lens.
https://www.fasttech.com/products/1607/10001027/1581304

Sorry for my bad English (gogole transtorla)

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