Just place your order with me. When I begin shipping on the 18th all but just a very few will got to TA even if it is just for the driver install so I will ship it to him with the others.
As far as what modifications you would like just send TA a PM and he will take from there.
I have not tried it on the 5700k myself yet but I know that the 4000k looks pretty good with a shaved dome. None of that puke green tint of days past. It does get warmer and a bit more yellow.
I am going to guess that the 5700k will fair pretty good as well just no first have experience with it. All my lights are NW.
oops... He is right I just noticed that you asked about the MT07S
If you want to order the MT07S that is simple just place the order and I normally would just ship that to you... You can talk with TA and ask him what if any modifications he may be able to do to it.
hiKARlnoob is right if you are looking for the 20k plus lumen light that would be the MT09R 70.2. Unless something has changed and I was never told about it I can pretty much promise you that you are not going to get anywhere close to 20k lumen from the MT07S.
It is a great light even totally stock. It is one of the first Haikelite models I ever purchased and it is still one of my favorites.
That is a lesson all of us have learned at some point the hard way. Still I think it may be worth a try.. As soon as things settle a little and I am sure I have any orders for the 70.2 stock I have is either gone or stopped selling for some reason I will get with you on that.
I know what the driver can do even with stock emitters so I do believe it would be worth the money to at least try. Even if it came out the same output as Newlumens 35 high I would still not be disappointed.
yeah, I prefer NW as well. However, 4000k is lowest I go, any warmer CT is too yellow for me. That is why I asked for shave dome 5700k; I kinda hope it will set somewhere around 5000~5200k, at cold side of NW.
The latest LED’s don’t shift nearly as much as the older ones, If I had to guess it would be closer to 5300-5500. Still not that bad though.
Very happy with that result! Good to know mine is not an outlier on the lower end.
I’ve been wondering what is the point of choosing the XHP35 HD over the XHP35 HI? It seems if you want it to be floodier, then just go for the XHP70.2 or if you want somewhere midway, wouldn’t it make more sense to pay just a little bit more for the dedomed 70.2, which will probably give the same amount of throw as the XHP35 HD but with triple the lumen output?
In my case I figure I will start off with the HD and see what it is like. Then if I decide I would prefer a HI I will simply slice the domes off. Technically this should give a bit better output then a normal HI anyways.
Plus I have never regretted going with an HD yet, the extra lumens they offer seems to balance out the reduced intensity and the end result is only around ~10% less throw in the first lights I did back to back tests with IIRC,
Oh good point with being able to shave the dome on the HD so you can get a higher binned HI!
it’s too dangerous :nerd_face:
Hope it is okay that I post this really quick TA... Part of it everyone needs to know...
I have 2 MT09R 35 High left both now have the final version of TA's driver. I just completed installing the drivers and they both are smooth as butter and both have output levels between 6500 to 6700 lumen both have stock emitters both are white (Silver, never will I get why they call that white) one has CW emitters and one has NW emitters. I really should have priced them higher than I have but these are left from the fist batch I purchased so I got a much better discount on these. The price you will see on my website. These are the last 35 Highs I will be able to get until Haikelite has completed the new driver and is installing them at the factory so 5 or 6 week at least.
One other quick thing... I have had a few people ask why I raised the price of the 30 MT09R's 70.2's that are on the way now. I raised the price by $20.00 not trying to make a ton of extra money but they would only let me order 30 units total. Even though I get wholesale pricing with it being only a 30 unit order I do not get the same volume discount that I did when I first opened and had ordered 125 units total.
The 30 units on the way actually cost me $21.34 each more than the lights I had in stock previously. If he had let me order 100 or more than I get much better volume discounts and can keep prices a little lower. Dale is gonna get annoyed at me as it is for not running them at retail but he will get over it this time. Anyway, truth is if I go even $5.00 cheaper I am getting very close to not making enough to cover shipping to me then shipping back out. They honestly are about as low as I can go. I did make sure to get only NW emitters as the NW seems to be getting much better performance even the stock emitters.
Okay sorry TA I just wanted everyone to know that I am not raising the price by that 20 to be greedy lol...
Thanks very much.
I don’t think it works like that. It’s the dome that gives it a higher bin. Slice the dome off and it drops to the next lower bin due to the loss of lumens.
Going from a 35 HD to a 70.2 HI is a really big jump. It will never equal the throw.
The 50.2 is the middle step between them. Concerning hot spot sizes, and this is based on my measurements and observations, I think the 35 HD should be about the same size as a 50.2 HI. The 50.2 HD should about the same size as the 70.2 HI. So you basically have 4 different hot spot sizes from the 3 emitters depending on whether they have a dome or not.
50.2 HI = sliced dome
50.2 HD = dome intact
never mind 
Strangely it does seem to work a little like that. KB has done a lot of testing on the xhp35 and that is what he does, uses and HD LED and shaves the dome off and gets higher numbers then a HI LED. This has also been seen with older XM-L2 and XP-L LED’s as well.
I figure I will give it a try and see what happens.
Hey, Ace…any chance of showing a photo of what your describing above ? You mention “plus” LED pads, but I didn’t see a polarity marking on the driver. Admitedly, I only glanced briefly at it late last night after a 10 hour drive, so may have missed it. I’ve done lots of soldering, but this will be my first flashlight driver swap - don’t want to mess it up, lol.
Thanks!
I can try to get a picture later.
The 4 big pads go to the LED wires. Above one set of 4 it says LED -
Above the other set of 4 it says LED +
The red wires go to the + and the white wires go to the -.
Same for the Switch, the GND pad is where the black switch wire goes and the V+ is where the red switch wire goes.
The writing is very small, you might need a magnifying glass.
Also, just wanted to let everyone know I will be placing an order tomorrow most likely for another batch of LED’s.
So anyone that wants to place an order, let me know and I will get it added to this order to speed things up later.
lol I can tell you from personal experience that you will want to get those positive and negative switch wires right. They do not go to the same pads as the old stock driver. If you happen to get those wrong it will definitely short out the switch at the very least.
I say this because I did it... still... it's very simple to install..
Also be very careful with the retaining ring. I've already asked that those be addressed in the next batch that gets machined. Every thread on their lights are machined very well except those for the retaining ring. Those will cross thread very easily. As long as you take plenty of time and go very slow and easy you should have no problem at all. If you force it even a little it will cross thread.
Also be very careful with the retaining ring. I’ve already asked that those be addressed in the next batch that gets machined. Every thread on their lights are machined very well except those for the retaining ring. Those will cross thread very easily. As long as you take plenty of time and go very slow and easy you should have no problem at all. If you force it even a little it will cross thread.
[/quote]
just curious here, the threads that the retaining ring screws into will get stripped, so a new retaining ring won’t help? thanks. I had some trouble getting mine out, it was snug. I won’t tighten it putting it back in.
Sorry for the typo guys. I meant the MT09R 70.2 Triple. I am going to order this & have it sent to TA. Can’t wait