Texas_Ace MT09R Modding thread, 20k+ lumens, 80CRI, can start fires? Yes please.

never mind :stuck_out_tongue:

Strangely it does seem to work a little like that. KB has done a lot of testing on the xhp35 and that is what he does, uses and HD LED and shaves the dome off and gets higher numbers then a HI LED. This has also been seen with older XM-L2 and XP-L LED’s as well.

I figure I will give it a try and see what happens.

Hey, Ace…any chance of showing a photo of what your describing above ? You mention “plus” LED pads, but I didn’t see a polarity marking on the driver. Admitedly, I only glanced briefly at it late last night after a 10 hour drive, so may have missed it. I’ve done lots of soldering, but this will be my first flashlight driver swap - don’t want to mess it up, lol.
Thanks!

I can try to get a picture later.

The 4 big pads go to the LED wires. Above one set of 4 it says LED -

Above the other set of 4 it says LED +

The red wires go to the + and the white wires go to the -.

Same for the Switch, the GND pad is where the black switch wire goes and the V+ is where the red switch wire goes.

The writing is very small, you might need a magnifying glass.

Also, just wanted to let everyone know I will be placing an order tomorrow most likely for another batch of LED’s.

So anyone that wants to place an order, let me know and I will get it added to this order to speed things up later.

lol I can tell you from personal experience that you will want to get those positive and negative switch wires right. They do not go to the same pads as the old stock driver. If you happen to get those wrong it will definitely short out the switch at the very least.

I say this because I did it... still... it's very simple to install..

Also be very careful with the retaining ring. I've already asked that those be addressed in the next batch that gets machined. Every thread on their lights are machined very well except those for the retaining ring. Those will cross thread very easily. As long as you take plenty of time and go very slow and easy you should have no problem at all. If you force it even a little it will cross thread.

Also be very careful with the retaining ring. I’ve already asked that those be addressed in the next batch that gets machined. Every thread on their lights are machined very well except those for the retaining ring. Those will cross thread very easily. As long as you take plenty of time and go very slow and easy you should have no problem at all. If you force it even a little it will cross thread.

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just curious here, the threads that the retaining ring screws into will get stripped, so a new retaining ring won’t help? thanks. I had some trouble getting mine out, it was snug. I won’t tighten it putting it back in.

Sorry for the typo guys. I meant the MT09R 70.2 Triple. I am going to order this & have it sent to TA. Can’t wait

Yes. Please order 1 xhp70.2 6500k led for my mt07s.

just curious here, the threads that the retaining ring screws into will get stripped, so a new retaining ring won’t help? thanks. I had some trouble getting mine out, it was snug. I won’t tighten it putting it back in.
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Honestly not sure... I have some new retaining rings coming along with these lights because I noticed how easy it is to do.

I can tell you this. The last one that cross threaded on me was the threading in at the base of the head and not the ring. I used a very small round piece of tungsten and just ran it around the inner flat part of the threads and that did stand the cut threads back up. the I used a fine grit sand paper and sanded and jagged edges away and the ring screwed on like I had just cut new threads lol...

I have made them aware of this and it will be addressed. This is also one of the reasons that I try to recommend that even the best of us just let me ship the light (if it is new) to TA. He has opened and closed as many of them if not more than I have now so we know right away just by how it feels if we are going to have a problem...

No worries though that is a warranty issue.

I figure out the LED orders based on my paypal orders. So it is best to place the order so I do not forget, it gets exceedingly complicated to try to keep track of both the paypal orders and talking to people on here without either forgetting someone or ordering too many. Easier to just stick with paypal.

What difference does it make? If you get my light next week, then you will still need to order a led right… i thought it make be easier and save $ on shipping… i am not in hurry.

I think you misunderstood. Yes, I do want to order your LED tomorrow. I just wait to order the LED’s until I have been paid for the work in most cases. I have had a few people change their mind on the tint they want and most importantly this is much easier for me to keep track of.

Basically if you have paid by tomorrow, the LED will be ordered for sure. If not then I will try but no guarantees. I have been getting well over 50 PM’s a day so it is nearly impossible to keep track of them all for something as important as ordering parts but not ordering too many.

Hopeful that is a little clearer?

Also, if you already paid, then great! I will get it for sure. It is proving quite difficult to keep track of the connections between payments and users on BLF. Thats why I ask for so many details in the paypal notes to make sure I don’t miss anything. The paypal notes is the “master” order list I use.

Makes sense to keep all orders in one place and makes more sense for that to be paypal since that is a guarantee the customer has settled on their decision. That’s how I do business too, once I receive security deposit, the work order goes on my queue. No security deposit, I treat as not a serious customer so won’t waste my time.

And those 70.2 emitter are not cheap. Not if you want a good bin top quality LED....

TA, I got my driver all wired up and I’m having problems with powering up the light. Once I screw in the battery tube, I get the 2 blinks and the button lighting up. However, when I press the switch nothing happens. So the issue might be that the driver is not sitting on the shelf properly and I need to add solder blobs to the top side of the driver to make better contact? Or is it some other issue? Thanks for any input you can give and I bypassed all 5 springs if that makes any difference.

Ok, I added some solder on the ground ring and that did the trick. I think my neighbors will get pissed if I take the light out right now to test it out… But wow this is like a totally different light now!

Glad you got it working, I am not sure why some lights need the solder blob, I have only had 2 so far that needed it. All the others were fine.

These PCB’s are slightly thinner then the factory pcb (1.6mm vs 2.0mm), but you would not think that would cause a problem.

Hey texas ace. Paypal sent for the mt07s

The driver is $20
Labor – $25
Spring bypass – $10
LED – $14. Xhp70.2 6500k
Shipping – $10

Total $79

Success on the driver install!
What a joy to have that smooth ramping, starting from Moon, 2x turbo, etc. Love it!
However…
I’ve decided to go full monty and change out the emitters, LOL!

Texas Ace, sent you $70 for -

- 70.2 P2 highest bin 5700K emitters

- Installation

  • Shipping

All info above is on Paypal order, BUT I forgot to include my BLF name on the order (doh!), but I’ve recently ordered from you. Sorry! Will ship light tomorrow of Sunday.

SOME QUESTIONS
Where can I find the PDF for Narsil 1.3 instructions?
Does the button light stay on all the time? (probably answered in the instructions)

THANKS!