Also be very careful with the retaining ring. I’ve already asked that those be addressed in the next batch that gets machined. Every thread on their lights are machined very well except those for the retaining ring. Those will cross thread very easily. As long as you take plenty of time and go very slow and easy you should have no problem at all. If you force it even a little it will cross thread.
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just curious here, the threads that the retaining ring screws into will get stripped, so a new retaining ring won’t help? thanks. I had some trouble getting mine out, it was snug. I won’t tighten it putting it back in.
just curious here, the threads that the retaining ring screws into will get stripped, so a new retaining ring won’t help? thanks. I had some trouble getting mine out, it was snug. I won’t tighten it putting it back in.
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Honestly not sure... I have some new retaining rings coming along with these lights because I noticed how easy it is to do.
I can tell you this. The last one that cross threaded on me was the threading in at the base of the head and not the ring. I used a very small round piece of tungsten and just ran it around the inner flat part of the threads and that did stand the cut threads back up. the I used a fine grit sand paper and sanded and jagged edges away and the ring screwed on like I had just cut new threads lol...
I have made them aware of this and it will be addressed. This is also one of the reasons that I try to recommend that even the best of us just let me ship the light (if it is new) to TA. He has opened and closed as many of them if not more than I have now so we know right away just by how it feels if we are going to have a problem...
I figure out the LED orders based on my paypal orders. So it is best to place the order so I do not forget, it gets exceedingly complicated to try to keep track of both the paypal orders and talking to people on here without either forgetting someone or ordering too many. Easier to just stick with paypal.
What difference does it make? If you get my light next week, then you will still need to order a led right… i thought it make be easier and save $ on shipping… i am not in hurry.
I think you misunderstood. Yes, I do want to order your LED tomorrow. I just wait to order the LED’s until I have been paid for the work in most cases. I have had a few people change their mind on the tint they want and most importantly this is much easier for me to keep track of.
Basically if you have paid by tomorrow, the LED will be ordered for sure. If not then I will try but no guarantees. I have been getting well over 50 PM’s a day so it is nearly impossible to keep track of them all for something as important as ordering parts but not ordering too many.
Hopeful that is a little clearer?
Also, if you already paid, then great! I will get it for sure. It is proving quite difficult to keep track of the connections between payments and users on BLF. Thats why I ask for so many details in the paypal notes to make sure I don’t miss anything. The paypal notes is the “master” order list I use.
Makes sense to keep all orders in one place and makes more sense for that to be paypal since that is a guarantee the customer has settled on their decision. That’s how I do business too, once I receive security deposit, the work order goes on my queue. No security deposit, I treat as not a serious customer so won’t waste my time.
TA, I got my driver all wired up and I’m having problems with powering up the light. Once I screw in the battery tube, I get the 2 blinks and the button lighting up. However, when I press the switch nothing happens. So the issue might be that the driver is not sitting on the shelf properly and I need to add solder blobs to the top side of the driver to make better contact? Or is it some other issue? Thanks for any input you can give and I bypassed all 5 springs if that makes any difference.
Ok, I added some solder on the ground ring and that did the trick. I think my neighbors will get pissed if I take the light out right now to test it out… But wow this is like a totally different light now!
Success on the driver install!
What a joy to have that smooth ramping, starting from Moon, 2x turbo, etc. Love it!
However…
I’ve decided to go full monty and change out the emitters, LOL!
Texas Ace, sent you $70 for -
- 70.2 P2 highest bin 5700K emitters
- Installation
Shipping
All info above is on Paypal order, BUT I forgot to include my BLF name on the order (doh!), but I’ve recently ordered from you. Sorry! Will ship light tomorrow of Sunday.
SOME QUESTIONS
Where can I find the PDF for Narsil 1.3 instructions?
Does the button light stay on all the time? (probably answered in the instructions)
Ok, I got in another light yesterday This one from AviationTech. He just wanted me to upgrade the driver and bypass all the springs on his stock Warm white XHP70.2 emitters.
I took some before measurements with fresh off the charger cells and go a bit over 13k lumens.
After the driver swap and bypasses with the stock LED’s it is now doing a bit over 17k lumens. So basically it added a Q8 worth of light just by swapping the driver and bypassing the springs.
The tint on the “Warm white” (I would call it neutral myself) is quite good, ever so slightly cooler then the 4000k 80cri I have been using. It seems to be a bit lower cri but that could just be a trick of the tint. It is a fair amount lower output though as you can tell. You can gain almost another Q8 worth of output from swapping the LED’s.
Oh I have not posted about it I don’t think but at the 50% power level most lights are between 11k-14k lumens. So almost the same output at 50% on this new driver with spring bypasses as the stock light was at max. In this lights case it was making 12k at the top of the ramp.
That catches me up until I see what shows up in the mail today. Now I need to finish testing and building the XHP70.2 Giggles so I can list it for sale.
In an early test with 8 cells driving it I actually saw over 10k lumens from the LED for a few seconds :sunglasses:
I will place the LED order this evening most likely
No problem! I try to treat customer orders as if they were my own and once I have paid for something I can not have it in my hands fast enough! lol.
The XHP70.2 needs high drain cells for sure, it could pull up to ~20A a cell at peak (although it seems to stabilize a bit lower then that on 30Q’s.)
For the xhp35 it doesn’t really matter, any quality cell should work, I use GA’s in my xhp35, 35E would also work. They only need to support around ~8-9A. I prefer 3500ma cells myself for the longer runtime and less stress on the LED’s.
Also, this goes for ALL MT09R’s. DO NOT over tighten the tailcap. There is no hard stop, you will only crush the cells. Just tighten until snug, that is it.
Well I had his light ready to ship when he told me he wanted to go ahead and swap the LED’s for the 4000k 80CRI.
So I swapped the LED’s and it is now doing a bit over 21k lumens with the same cells I did the prior 2 tests with. Figure around 22k on full cells. Or a Q8 added on top of what it was doing already. :sunglasses:
I also got it back out before the mailman came so it is still going out today.
