Texas_Ace MT09R Modding thread, 20k+ lumens, 80CRI, can start fires? Yes please.

Yep, the numbers are even hard for me to believe so I am taking them with a large grain of salt until I get a new lux meter. These small HS1010’s work great for the sphere where the light is heavily diffused entering the meter but for direct lux readings they always ready low it seems. The dr meter did much better and got similar results to others with the GT.

I am also curious about a dedomed XHP70.2 in the MT09 or MT07, luckily I have at least 2 coming that are getting that treatment.

Yep, you are one of them.

The tint shift is noticeable for sure with the 4000k seeing it side by side in the GT’s. It ends up in the mid to high 3000k range for sure. Just so you are aware. I can change your LED’s order still since I had to wait to place the order till tomorrow or Monday.

Yeah, it took 2 full grow guys plus a strap wrench and vice to get mine apart finally. It is no joke.

The hardest part is getting a good grip, the vice made it much easier but I was so worried about scratching it up I tried to not use it at first. Luckily there was no damage.

Can’t wait to see what you think!

Is this Dr.Meter LX1330B lux meter the best bang for the buck? I’m planning to get this one to test throw. What do you guys think?

That is the same one I plan to order this weekend, I have heard good reviews about it. It is also the same thing I used to use as well and liked it. The HS1010 is simpler to use but the dr meter seems more accurate for throw readings.

It is not dark yet… i did the ceiling bounce and its definitely over 20k lumen light… daylight ! ramping mode is super smooth. ( descending or ascending ). I like both version with the 5700k tint. Overall, its worth it. Brighter, highest bin led, TA driver, and more reliable. I a, happy with the mods…

Great, always good to know the work was worth it!

I also finished Darbonius MT03 with 50% ramp, TA driver, bypasses and 80cri LED’s.

It was doing ~12k lumens stock and had melted the driver spring in the process.

Now it is doing ~21k lumens and should not have anymore spring issues (although remember, don’t over tighten the tailcap, there is no hard stop).

Looks good and I am happy with the results.

I will get it shipped out tomorrow.

When you remove the dome you automatically lose output. I could tell just by eye when I did that with an older xhp70. TA, do you know how much output you lose, 10%?

The last report I heard from you was that your GT was modded to 6A (12v) and did 1300 meters with the dome on. I can’t find the thread, but I think you bumped up the output to 8A (12v) on the GT driver, sliced the dome off and got about 1600 meters. Is that right?

Have you swapped in a FET driver to the GT? Has the distance gone up again?

Yeah, around 8-10% was what I was seeing in losses but it is hard to tell exactly as these output levels since I can only hold the reflector for so long before my fingers start burning lol.

Yes, I had it with the stock driver @ 6A and it was around 1300m with the dome on and 1600m with the dome off IIRC. I never ended up taking it to 8A. It was simpler to just go with a TA FET driver since the GT can handle the power. So I spent the last few months working on that off and on.

Now it is doing something around ~10-11A at 12v (20-22A @ 6v) and the numbers have gone up to match naturally. See the GT modding thread for the latest numbers BLF GT (preliminary) modding thread

I don’t have the same meter I was using (that is the meter you have now :wink: ) so I am having to use the cheap meters that I know read low. I am waiting until I get another Dr meter to really get some numbers I can trust. These just seem too good to be true but they are what it said.

OK, here’s my dumb question for today,
Could someone please explain to me what is meant with requesting a 50% ramping,
I think I understand 100% ramping but I don’t get the request for 50, what happens with the other 50 ramping?
That’s all the dumbness I can think of at the moment, but sure would like to know what this is all about.
Thank You, I will wait patiently until your all through laughing at me, :stuck_out_tongue:

Using the ramping method, holding down the button, it doesn’t go full power. It stops short.
Then you have to dbl click to get full power.

The only dumb question is the question that is not asked (or that is not learned from if it was already asked lol).

The 50% ramp simply stops the ramp at 50% power, this is around ~11-14k lumens on most lights. Then you can double click for turbo 100% power.

I find that limiting the ramp to 50% is more then enough light for 98% of tasks and reduces the stress on everything by half and also vastly reduces the overheating.

I actually setup my lights lower then this in many cases so that I can give it to anyone and they will not run it unnecessarily hot and bright.

Another thing I like about the 50% is that you can actually see a difference when you go to turbo, so it makes turbo mean something.

You can chose 100% power if you desire as well.

Yep, he beat me to it.

Just to get technical, do you set it to 50% the amp draw (or what is equivalent to that) or do you set it to 50% of the ramping numbers? I think NarsilM uses 150 steps? Something like that.

I set it to approx 50% duty PWM. So 255 is 100%, and I generally set the ramp to around ~125-130pwm.

Keep in mind that this is a new feature. It just came out in NarsilM v1.2 when the GT came out, so officially like 4 or 5 months ago. Lexel just started using NarsilM v1.2 in his drivers maybe 1 month ago.

TA has been messing with NarsilM v1.3. I guess the beta version, right? It’s officially not out yet. Not that I have heard. Tom E has also been MIA recently. He’s the one that is usually tinkering with it and improving it.

Hey guys I will begin shipping all of the new orders for the MT09R 70.2 blue and green versions probably Wednesday possibly Thursday of this coming week.

For those interested now is the time to get it ordered. Any left not ordered I will be paying for the drivers myself and installing them and the price will go to full retail which is much more than I have them offered for now.

Right now they are marked up just enough that I make a very small profit and cover shipping.

I'm happy to sell all of them at the price they are at now. However if he completes the drivers we agreed he would build to cover these 30 units I will have to pay him just like anyone else if they do not all sell.

This light sells for over 200.00 dollars from at least one of the European dealers. I would prefer they sell as opposed to buying the remaining drivers and installing them. Then marking the price back to retail.

Just keeping everyone informed... You can get them cheap right now and for 20 dollars more no other light in the same format comes close to it for the price...

Okay.

I guess I confuse people when I say steps. The highest step is about #150 and that is equal to the software number 255 which is full power.

So around ~125-130pwm is about the 75th to 80th step if I remember correctly.

I am trying my best to not get involved into flashing my own drivers or assembling my own drivers. That’s too extreme. Lol

125-130 pwm usually happens to be around the 130th step due to the way the human eye works. I only cut off a very small part of the ramp when I do this.

So small it is unlikely you would actually stop in that part of the ramp as each step must be larger and larger to make the ramp appear smooth to the human eye.

A linear ramp is what the MT09 came with stock and everyone can attest to how horrible that was.