I had a SP 10B emitter come off for no reason except probably cold soldered . Sofirn is very easy to deal with. Sent me a new light , reflowed the old one . Stainless steel frying pan on medium heat electric stove top burner and a little solder paste works great. Vesture of Blood video gave me confidence to do it.
As in djozz situation, my new SP10 A and the SP10 B I put a new driver, both start at FF mode!
But I don’t know if they will have the same UI.
I guess that there was a transition period meanwhile where different UIs co-existed and were sold. My guess is that the “final” UI will be like I described above, but it’s just a guess as well! :+1:
Yup! The driver I bought and put on the SP10B does the same thing !! This UI is similar to the one used on Olight S1R Baton (and maybe other Olight lights)!!!
EDIT: It is not the same, sorry! What I meant was that the access to Firefly, Turbo, Strobe and last regular mode used are the same. The operation (clicks vs press & hold) are different :person_facepalming:
Confirmative, there is memory after all, and direct access from off to both lowest and turbo :+1:
Turbo is not memorised though, instead it goes to the last mode before turbo was activated.
And I found a small bug, when in any mode including turbo, long press=off, only when turbo is activated from off, a long press does nothing, instead a short press=off. After trying a first long press, a second long press does switch it off again.
Was in the can, had shorts I was changing out of, SP10A in the pocket, just slung them over the shower-curtain-rod. Seconds later, >boom!<, it hits the tile floor from about 6’/2m high.
Acted finicky at first, but I did do a TCLO before, so after snugging up the tail and the head, tried it again, and it worked perfectly.