you mean a normal momentary switch with a FET and a bi stable lock state?
never heared of such a thing, momentary is easy like I did in my remote FET switches
Oh, okay. The Ti tool uses them - Lumintop Tool Copper with electronic switch. Some members at cpf have made small runs of custom lights with them (kuku427, ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond, and Tain) though I have no idea where they get them. Just thought I’d ask :innocent:
Would the momentary in your remote FET switches be the same as having an e-switch tail?
The reason I ask is because if it does, then it’s only a step away from mounting an e-switch in the tail instead of having the remote pad.
I recently got a few budget lights with e-tail switches (whole driver in the tail) and really like those switches.
So I’ve been toying with the idea of converting a light to an e-tail switch with the driver in the head.
One method is with the tailcap FET circuit, which requires a small battery or capacitor in the tail (like the Ti Tool)
Although personally I’m looking at method #4 (driver in the head) with e-switch firmware.
From my understanding the FW3A uses method #4. I think it’s kinda hard to retro fit that method to existing lights. I wish to modify some edc’s like my D25C, there is nothing wrong with the stock switch but for waking in the night I prefer a (near) silent switch.
The remote fet switches are only momentary action, meaning - push = light on / release = light off
The ti tool switch is what I want but it doesn’t need to be that small.
The Bistro are working, but I got still some glow between blinks,
to address this a new board need to be made for NarsilM drivers as they do not shut down completely including firmware change which I am not capable of
The people I asked to change Narsil do not respond
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I’m looking at the Q8 driver (4p) for a blackshadow terminator. The stock driver is 47.5mm diameter. It appears it will work, has anyone tried this?
The BST has a lighted e-switch (4 wires) would this be compatible?
Is there room to drill a small hole in the center of the board for the mounting screw? Like this:
Technically you can drill in the middle no parts or lanes there, but you have to remove the copper on both sides to prevent shorts from battery+ to ground