No matter what you do there will be some people that seem to think randomly pressing the button should give a desirable outcome
Yes, they seem to gather outside elevators, frantically pushing the already lit button. They are also noticeable in traffic jams, apparently trying to get messages through to each other via morse code in some secret language.
Is mechanical lock out possible? I am 99.9 percent sure it is by looking at internals on post 1, and has probably been stated before.
Would like to clarify again. Thanks.
I doubt it, it seems to me that the main current path through the outer tube will be maintained even when unscrewed a little. All that would be locked out would be the connection to the tail e-switch via the inner co-axial tube, preventing it from functioning.
The inner tube contacts the driver ground at the end of the tube, the rest of the tube is anodized and therefore doesn’t conduct electricity… hence a mechanical lockout should work as far as I can see. ToyKeeper?
Mechanical lockout works, but it’s a little awkward. Instead of unscrewing the tailcap, it unscrews between the pill and the tube.
There is also a soft lockout function on 4 clicks, which is reasonably fast to enter/exit and doubles as a momentary moon or low mode. It takes about a second. In comparison, the D4 takes about 3-4 seconds to enter/exit lockout.
As for the poll, there are 54 votes so far and it seems smooth ramp has a clear lead. The 3-mode clicky option has been consistently in last place. The other three options keep trading places in the middle. Perhaps I should start on a smooth-ramp muggle mode soon.
It also sounds (from discussion only) like most people prefer 6 clicks to exit, rather than disconnecting power. That’ll take a little extra space, but it should be doable.
Mechanical lockout works, but it’s a little awkward. Instead of unscrewing the tailcap, it unscrews between the pill and the tube.
There is also a soft lockout function on 4 clicks, which is reasonably fast to enter/exit and doubles as a momentary moon or low mode. It takes about a second. In comparison, the D4 takes about 3-4 seconds to enter/exit lockout.
That’s interesting, I had assumed that the main current path was through the outer tube, and only the tail-switch signalling via the inner tube.
Does the driver maintain the ultra-low parasitic drain of e.g. the Q8, or has e.g. the voltage divider returned ?
I presume that the cell loads by removing the head, rather than the tail ?
A brief technical description would be of interest.
As for the poll, there are 54 votes so far and it seems smooth ramp has a clear lead. The 3-mode clicky option has been consistently in last place. The other three options keep trading places in the middle. Perhaps I should start on a smooth-ramp muggle mode soon.
It also sounds (from discussion only) like most people prefer 6 clicks to exit, rather than disconnecting power. That’ll take a little extra space, but it should be doable.
I’ve been following the poll, and it is polarised If there has to be a muggle mode, then yes please, 6 clicks on, 6 clicks off, but please make them very rapid (should not be a problem with an e-switch).
I had assumed that the main current path was through the outer tube, and only the tail-switch signalling via the inner tube.
That is correct.
Quote:
Does the driver maintain the ultra-low parasitic drain of e.g. the Q8
Same parasitic drain as Q8. Estimated standby time is longer than a cell can hold a charge. It is possible to change the battery without rebooting the light, because the standby power is so low.
I had assumed that the main current path was through the outer tube, and only the tail-switch signalling via the inner tube.
That is correct.
Quote:
Does the driver maintain the ultra-low parasitic drain of e.g. the Q8
Same parasitic drain as Q8. Estimated standby time is longer than a cell can hold a charge. It is possible to change the battery without rebooting the light, because the standby power is so low.
Thank you, it’s all good (actually better than that). Very excited about this one.
Edit: no true lockout (take out the cell if it worries you), but the switch communication can be locked out to save any pocket incidents. Soft lockout in standby will last forever, and will be stable as long as the switch communication is also locked out. I am happy with this, and trust that the firmware will behave nicely and default to “off” in the absence of communication with the switch, though I’m not sure how that is possible without a couple of tiny hardware (and/or MCU pin programming) changes so firmware can tell whether the switch is actually present, or locked out.
That’s good as long as the anodising lasts on the critical interfaces. It had better be good. (It doesn’t last, even the best).
And when it is gone, where will we be ? I think no big issues, just lack of true lockout which doesn’t bother me.
I can’t get my head around how precise the tube lengths, and assembly of other parts, would have to be if they are indeed sufficiently anodised to make no electrical contact anywhere but at the contact faces with the driver and the switch.
Perhaps I have mis-understood, or maybe the designer could chip in here as to how it is supposed to work..
Could someone please tell me if the first list for this GB has already been done and delivered.
I haven’t been paying attention of course, my numbers where, 2 T18: 399, 439
I saw a mention of a second batch and couldn’t really tell exactly what was meant, it was quite a few pages back,
Perhaps I missed out on the first batch and didn’t get a notification.?
Really should pay closer attention, thank you..
T18, the “second batch” is for prototypes only. Things aren’t far enough to actually start manufacturing or other production-related stuff.
The list is public so there is a good chance Lumintop has looked at it, but I don’t think it has been explicitly delivered. People can still sign up whenever.
Ideally, something more opaque would be better, like the Olight GitD traffic wand included with the S1 Mini, or the Thrunite T10T traffic wand. Those are both nice, except for being too small.
No Muggles
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Lexel is working on a boost driver, but needs help getting NarsilM to run smoothly on it. So that should be out in the near future.
He also has a buck driver out using NarsilM. Well, Dels driver design from the GT that can fit in other lights.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links.
No matter what you do there will be some people that seem to think randomly pressing the button should give a desirable outcome
Yes, they seem to gather outside elevators, frantically pushing the already lit button. They are also noticeable in traffic jams, apparently trying to get messages through to each other via morse code in some secret language.
Beam me up!
Got a link to that buck driver?
Find all my reviews of flashlights and more gear at www.bmengineer.com
Here. Keep in mind they are pretty large due to the components necessary. Ask Lexel about sizes.
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/57772
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links.
Done
EDIT:
A sudden spike in comments on TLF occurred.
Uproar!
It starts here: http://www.taschenlampen-forum.de/threads/fw3a-tlf-sonderedition-in-klei...
Is mechanical lock out possible? I am 99.9 percent sure it is by looking at internals on post 1, and has probably been stated before.
Would like to clarify again. Thanks.
I’m not sure if I put my name down for one ,so if I did ,ignore this , if I didn’t then I’m in for one ,thank you.
I am on the list for one, #93. Please add me for a second one. Thank you.
I doubt it, it seems to me that the main current path through the outer tube will be maintained even when unscrewed a little. All that would be locked out would be the connection to the tail e-switch via the inner co-axial tube, preventing it from functioning.
I could be completely wrong.
The inner tube contacts the driver ground at the end of the tube, the rest of the tube is anodized and therefore doesn’t conduct electricity… hence a mechanical lockout should work as far as I can see. ToyKeeper?
Mechanical lockout works, but it’s a little awkward. Instead of unscrewing the tailcap, it unscrews between the pill and the tube.
There is also a soft lockout function on 4 clicks, which is reasonably fast to enter/exit and doubles as a momentary moon or low mode. It takes about a second. In comparison, the D4 takes about 3-4 seconds to enter/exit lockout.
As for the poll, there are 54 votes so far and it seems smooth ramp has a clear lead. The 3-mode clicky option has been consistently in last place. The other three options keep trading places in the middle. Perhaps I should start on a smooth-ramp muggle mode soon.
It also sounds (from discussion only) like most people prefer 6 clicks to exit, rather than disconnecting power. That’ll take a little extra space, but it should be doable.
That’s interesting, I had assumed that the main current path was through the outer tube, and only the tail-switch signalling via the inner tube.
Does the driver maintain the ultra-low parasitic drain of e.g. the Q8, or has e.g. the voltage divider returned ?
I presume that the cell loads by removing the head, rather than the tail ?
A brief technical description would be of interest.
Thanks.
I’ve been following the poll, and it is polarised
If there has to be a muggle mode, then yes please, 6 clicks on, 6 clicks off, but please make them very rapid (should not be a problem with an e-switch).
How tactile or bouncy is it ?
That is correct.
Same parasitic drain as Q8. Estimated standby time is longer than a cell can hold a charge. It is possible to change the battery without rebooting the light, because the standby power is so low.
Thank you, it’s all good (actually better than that). Very excited about this one.
Edit: no true lockout (take out the cell if it worries you), but the switch communication can be locked out to save any pocket incidents. Soft lockout in standby will last forever, and will be stable as long as the switch communication is also locked out. I am happy with this, and trust that the firmware will behave nicely and default to “off” in the absence of communication with the switch, though I’m not sure how that is possible without a couple of tiny hardware (and/or MCU pin programming) changes so firmware can tell whether the switch is actually present, or locked out.
Maybe over-thinking this.
Put me for another one, two in total.
Er, when the tube is loosened, it breaks electrical contact with both power and the e-switch. Mechanical lockout works without removing the cell.
That’s good as long as the anodising lasts on the critical interfaces. It had better be good. (It doesn’t last, even the best).
And when it is gone, where will we be ? I think no big issues, just lack of true lockout which doesn’t bother me.
I can’t get my head around how precise the tube lengths, and assembly of other parts, would have to be if they are indeed sufficiently anodised to make no electrical contact anywhere but at the contact faces with the driver and the switch.
Perhaps I have mis-understood, or maybe the designer could chip in here as to how it is supposed to work..
Could someone please tell me if the first list for this GB has already been done and delivered.
I haven’t been paying attention of course, my numbers where, 2 T18: 399, 439
I saw a mention of a second batch and couldn’t really tell exactly what was meant, it was quite a few pages back,
Perhaps I missed out on the first batch and didn’t get a notification.?
Really should pay closer attention, thank you..
T18, the “second batch” is for prototypes only. Things aren’t far enough to actually start manufacturing or other production-related stuff.
The list is public so there is a good chance Lumintop has looked at it, but I don’t think it has been explicitly delivered. People can still sign up whenever.
@toykeeper
With greatings from TLF
When the FW3A is OFF and I double click, does it start in TURBO or top off the ceiling?
Thanks. This might work:
https://www.fasttech.com/products/1630/10003970/1498900-authentic-niteco...
It says it’s 25.4mm, and my FW3A measures 25.6mm, but that should be close enough.
However, I have this one and it doesn’t work. It is only ~23.8mm inside:
https://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10006904/1551402-24-5mm-beam-diffuse...
Ideally, something more opaque would be better, like the Olight GitD traffic wand included with the S1 Mini, or the Thrunite T10T traffic wand. Those are both nice, except for being too small.
Off -> double click: Go to the ceiling.
Ceiling -> double click: Go to turbo.
Turbo -> double click: Go back to memorized level.
No turbo from off?
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links.
Hopefully at least with the momentary if turbo was the last mode used.
You can always set your ceiling and turbo to be the same if you want turbo from off
Find all my reviews of flashlights and more gear at www.bmengineer.com
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